GeneralDisorder

Pipe wrench and a cheater pipe. GD

If you click on my user name you will get the option to send me a private message.... may not be there till you have over 10 posts. I see you have 10 exactly so you might have to make another one first.... I just looked online (didn't call any of my other places yet) and I see that a place in Albany has a likely candidate: 1990 Engine Subaru Legacy 169,000 A6M0067 $450 Pick A Part, Albany - PAR Member USA-OR(Albany) Request_Quote 1-800-927-5855 Request_Insurance_Quote GD

The hole pattern is very close to the center of rotation. The closer you are to the axis of rotation the less any modifications to the material will matter as far as balancing. Think of the boundery condition - you can add and subract as much weight as you want at the exact center and it will never change the balance. In practice the changes made for an EJ swap flywheel are close enough to the center and small enough that they don't matter. Don't bother balancing it. GD

So you are looking for a used EJ22 right? Not a rebuilt short block... cause then you would be keeping the heads yes? :-p Shipping an entire engine would be a lot more than just a short block. Probably cheaper to drive here and get it. PM me and we can figure it out. GD

Yep - I can do pretty much any EJ shortblock rebuild for $1000. Shipping to you would be about $65. But it's totally not worth in on the phase-I EJ22's - I can get engines with 120k to 150k for $500 every day of the week. I bought one last week for $475 with a $25 core with 150k on it. Runs like a top. I bought another a few weeks before it for $350 and no core with 137k on it. Also runs like a dream. Even for higher performance engines used it sometimes a better deal. I got an EJ255 short block for a customer of mine with an '02 WRX. $800 for a great condition short block from a wrecked car with 65k on it.... total no brainer. With prices and availibility being what they are on good used EJ22's.... why would you even bother cracking a short block? These are what I call "appliance" engines. It's an engine for a "commuting appliance". It's not a high performance engine, and with good care they will go 300k. $500 for another 150k of trouble-free motoring is a no-brainer. I do this all day, every day. I can tell you how best to spend your money. But I can only lead you to the river.... I can't make you drink GD

None of that stuff is a deal killer for a good mechanic. I can swap any EJ251/253 around without much trouble. Use the manifold that goes with the car and modify the long-block as needed. Drilling and tapping EGR ports is the biggest hurdle for most people because of the 20mm x 1.5 plug/bottoming taps that you need for the job. But IT IS 100% POSSIBLE to swap them all around. A fellow board member here just put a '99 EJ223 into an '03. Runs great - no codes. GD

The sets are garbage. The only Fel-Pro Subaru gasket that's worth using is the head gasket itself. For the rest - dealer only. There are some that I source from my import parts supplier up here but the brand is not easy to get your hands on from any of the common parts stores. Online is the best bet. GD

Sadly I doubt anyone will have any useful ideas since the wiring on the thing is totally custom. Needs dielectric grease on all the terminal strips, etc.... possibly a dodgy relay. When it loses power you just have to trace down through the connections from the battery to the igntion and fuel pump relays and you'll probably find a loose or lightly corroded terminal, etc. We should probably recrimp all the ring terminals with my "new" method of removing the plastic insulators and using heat shrink instead. Keeps the ring terminal crimps much happier. That's how I did Aaron's Brat and it's been 100% since the build. He daily drives it. GD

The front diff carrier bearings have to be replaced. The OBX diff's don't come with them and you'll destroy the old one's getting them off the open diff. Stub shaft seals are simple - input shaft seal can only be accessed by splitting the transmission case. GD

Actually I had that same idea. I also noticed that the TPS reading was really odd at ide. As in it never read 0% on my scanner. I need to check into that further. I just had a '98 Legacy with the same engine (Forester has a 2.2 swap) on my scanner and it was reading 0% at idle from the TPS. It shifts smooth as butter. In fact!! The car in question that was on my scanner today is the car the 2.2 in the Forester came from and it shifted hard when it was in the Legacy also.... the engine I put in it's place is from a '95 and runs and drives great.... Confused yet? :-p I'll have to look into this closer for sure. GD

I'm not in the bearing industry (never have been....perhaps you have me confused?) but if you get the numbers off the bearings they are likely just standard tapered roller bearings that can be sourced from a bearing supply. There are automotive only bearings though that you can't do this with... but for carrier bearings they are usually just simple off-the-shelf units. I did rear axle bearings on a 70's 1/2 ton Dodge not too long ago - besides being a pain in the neck they were easy to source from my local bearing supplier using the numbers on the races. GD

The carbs are online for $199 with free shipping. Found a couple places that list that price. The adaptor you can get from any Redline dealer for $35 to $40. Air filter can be had from Redline and EMPI - about $20. The kit has a worthless instruction sheet and a cable bracket that doesn't work. Not worth the extra $60 that's for sure. GD

Don't buy the kit. Get the carb, adapter plate, and filter. That's all you need. GD

You need a new oil pump o-ring and a new set of lifters. Not a head rebuild. 300k on the bottom end? You're nuts. Head rebuild is a waste of money. Might as well burn it - at least you'll get something out of that. I get used EJ22's with 120 to 150k on them that run perfectly for $500. Rebuilding in any capacity at that kind of mileage is a complete financial lose. GD

If you are just going to install the diff without rebuilding the transmisison (silly IMO) then you don't need a press. If you are doing a full rebuild you will need access to a press for the whole process. The shafts don't come apart any other way. GD

The general consensus on NASIOC is that if you have to ask how difficult it is - you aren't prepared to do it. You may as well rebuild the transmission with new main shaft bearings and new syncro's, You will have to reset the R&P clearances. Special tools are "required" but if you are handy at precision measurement and reading tea leaves you can get it done with only a few common things like a dial indicator, mic's, etc. GD

87 to 89 RX. 88 and 89 Full Time 4WD Turbo 5 speeds 91 Legacy SS Then there's a long interval till you get to the USDM turbo models with R160 LSD's like the '04 Forester XT, etc. All but the 87 to 89 LSD's are some form of VLSD. Which are basically useless after about 50k miles and cannot be serviced or rebuilt so unless you plan on buying a new one - don't bother. Clutch types from 87 to 89 can be rebuilt with parts from Nissan. They are very sought after - I sell them for over $400 to the Datsun 510 guys. GD

I haven't had much good luck with the gel batteries in my vehicles. They seem a lot less tollerant of sitting for long periods which my many vehicles tend to do since I have quite a few and can only drive one at a time. GD

Yeah it's a group 35. I like Interstate's myself. I get MT35's for $67 and some change. GD

Well - assuming you are going to strip the harness - it really doesn't matter where anything goes. You strip from the ECU out. So start checking pinouts and labeling connectors according to where they connect at the ECU plugs. Then you will know which one's are keepers and which are not. GD

I'll have to look for them. Been a loooong time since I posted this. And I can't edit the post in any case - all I can do is rehost them and put them on this last page. GD

Outback's do not have LSD's..... not in any of those years. The one's with LSD's are the EJ255 turbo Outback XT's which didn't come out till 2005. And I'm not even sure all of those got them. GD

No - a cold air intake (actually they are "short ram" intakes and they don't pull cold air they pull warm air from the engine bay) will do NOTHING for performance and there is NOTHING you can do to the EJ22 NA that will bring it even close to the stock performance of the EJ22T except run boost through it. Reliability takes a big hit. Redevil has gone through a LOT of engines and he hasn't used the NA's for a long time now. It ate them like candy. I beleive in it's current config it's running an EJ257. GD

Repair/replace the terminals also. Those look bad. Water and baking soda are your friends here. The fact that the terminals look like that is a sign that your battery is taking a dive. The acid deposits are a good sign that connections are poor and the battery is old. GD

Yeah if it turns out to be a peice of crap we can run it in for the core value unless you want to try to sell the heads - could probably get more than $100 for the parts off that thing if you wanted to part it out. Heads are probably worth $150 over on NASIOC and the manifold is good, etc. GD