GeneralDisorder

I do them for $250. PM me if you like. GD

You don't have to hack anything to put the '95 engine in. Intake adaptors and swap the crank/cam sprockets. That's about it actually. Should run no problem. GD

RR cams are harder. Profile isn't the issue - it's a wear issue as I understand it. Being a regrind.... I would ask Delta about the interchangeability of them from a metalurgical standpoint. Don't want them going flat in short order or something. GD

Your's need new shaft bushings. Contact Philbin manufactureing in Portland. They rebush and rebuild distributors. Will be much cheaper than new/reman and better than anything you can find used. They have rebuilt several for me - ranging from $55 to $120 depending on what they need. http://www.philbingroup.com/rebuilt/special_services.htm All EA82 carb distributors will work. So 85 to 87. Alt is bad. Just replace it. The bridge rectifier in the VR has one or more bad diodes.... not worth fixing it. Get an alt for an 86 to 94 Nissan Maxima. My thread on those is here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=100559&highlight=nissan+maxima Pics are on like page 13. Had to rehost them. Noise supressor to block AM radio interferance. GD

Instead of paying those guys why don't you just bring it me? Lifter tick and/or solid lifter adjustment is simple to solve. Not an easy task. You will have to bypass the VC - you can't just weld the center diff - you will blow up the VC in short order. So it has to be removed or similarly disabled and that's not going to be easy. GD

Not at all - just pull the access cover in the trunk area. GD

Unless you changed to solid lifters.... a '91 Legacy (and all engines through 96) have hydraulic lifters and there is no adjustment. GD

Dealer or junk yard part. But will have to come from an 80 to 83. 84+ didn't use that style. GD

This is why I tell people to go to their dealer and buy EVERY SINGLE coolant hose on the car and install them before they ever drive it. GD

Problem he has is that his EJ22 manifold doesn't have the EGR at all. It's the wrong casting and there's no valve or any place to put one. Putting the EGR bung in the exhaust would be easy actually - Nissan did that with their exhaust headers. Hell I could make a weld-in bung, cut the head end off of a factory EGR pipe and weld it to a section of steel tubing and run it to the manifold. Possibly with a flex section even to keep it from breaking due to vibration. But all this costs time and money. You wouldn't like what I would charge for this service. As noted - $250 got a questionable job done that broke from vibration after a couple years. My version wouldn't have that problem. And the cost would be commensurately higher. GD

Same for all '82 to '87 GL's. GD

You can't bolt 2.5 heads to a 2.2 block. The fire ring on the 2.2 gasket is smaller than the combustion chambers on the 2.5 heads and will not seal. All you need to make adaptor plates is: Used 2.5 and 2.2 gaskets Scrap 1/2" aluminium plate. Drill bits. Hole saws. Drill press. Die grinder and carbide burrs. Lots of spare time. No welding or machining required. GD

You can pull the engine with the TC attached quite easily. I just did an '03 Baja like this today. You just carefully pull the engine forward and then slip the oil pump drive sleeve off the TC. Then remove from engine bay as normal. Then you can drill out the flex-plate to TC bolts from the back. Much easier than cutting the bell-housing away like that - probably took me a whole 20 minutes..... You get points for creativity though GD

Rev the engine while you stand there watching the hoses - pin-hole leaks like to spray when the water pump picks up speed. GD

Interesting.... So it won't throw codes if it sees the vss signal and the park signal at the same time? That would seem like a large oversight on the part of the software engineers. If I wrote that software I would be calling the park switch bad at that point. I guess if it works without codes that's great. Im guessing that probably wouldn't fly on the OBD-II's. I would never have thought to try that - thanks for the info. GD

Last time I had that problem on a Legacy it was because the pickup tube that was supposed to be on the bottom of the fuel pump was missing due to some hack replacing the fuel pump and leaving it out. It's a short tube attached to a mesh bag that keeps rocks, birds, and small children out of the pump. GD

Application of penetrant usually helps also. They end up fretted in place - almost always. GD

I have seen it done the other direction - that is phase-II into phase-I. Specifically taking a phase-II 2.5 and putting it in a '95 Impreza. This was done by fitting the '95 1.8 manifold to the 2.5 heads using custom adaptors and then using the 1.8 cam and crank sprockets. If you can do it that direction, then it can be done the other direction. Using the 2.5 wireing harness on the 2.2 manifold...... well that might work but the 2.2 manifold uses a totally different idle control system so I'm dubious as to how that would play out. Besides that the 2.5 manifold flows a lot better so building adaptor plates to mate the 2.5 manifold to the older heads would be the way I would do it. Pretty sure the crank and cam sprockets will in fact swap. GD

Contact sube101 (Steven). He has these jigged up and can build you a set or a couple sets if you like. Could be about a week right now as their water jet went down for a week due to a pump failure they are playing catch up with internet orders.... The design was mine - the implementation is all sube101. Oh and those pics are of the proto-types. I'm sure your's will be prettier. Also you have a choice of aluminized or stainless and weld or slip-fit. Slip fit uses 1-3/4" standard exhaust clamps. I would have welded the ones in the pictures but we wanted to prove the concept of the slip-fit version for people that can't weld them or don't wish to. GD

But it will throw codes and may not behave itself all the time. They like to be pissy about idle speeds, etc. GD

You can do it but you will need to make custom manifold adaptors to fit the 2.5 manifold to the 2.2 heads. GD

Flywheel should be fine to resurface at least three times. They are really heavy - something stupid like 26 lbs. No problem taking off a few thou. I have a clutch kit here in my shop I can sell you - bought it for an '03 Baja but didn't end up using it because the thing had a new (3500 mile) clutch in it already. Will fit the '91 just fine. Just need a tranny - shouldn't be hard to fine one. Here's one in Longview for $275: 1992 Transmission Subaru Legacy SK7263 $275 D and S Light Truck USA-WA(Longview) 1-877-575-1676 GD

If you want a set of the header conversion pipes let me know. I was having him run off like 5 sets initially - used one a couple weeks ago. I was lucky to find a '95 engine for the forester I did last week but I may need another for a legacy I'm looking for an engine for. GD

Interesting. I'm betting there's some real nasty carnage inside that transmission. The fact that it was popping out of gears..... this is not a common issue with the AWD 5MT's so I'm sure it's totally blowed up inside. Drain the gear oil - I bet there's a whole party pack of little metal favors in there. GD

Hood release cable is dealer only, yeah. Not that bad to replace actually. The fenders are all the same. I've put wagon fenders on three-door coupes before. As well as complete front clips... some welding required. GD