GeneralDisorder

Yes and no. The struts will fit but the 01 Forester rear top-hats will not. And your top-hats will not fit the '01 rear springs. You will need rear top-hats from a '92 to '94. *edit*..... not sure on the XT rear springs. They might fit your rear top hats. Probably not though. '04 STi springs will fit your 91 rear top hats.... and I think the rest of the pack didn't change back to cone springs till '06.... GD

Resistors won't work. You can fool the ECU into thinking the solenoid is good but that won't provide the MAP sensor pulse when the EGR opens or the O2 sensor readings the ECU is looking for to determine the EGR is working. If you do a bit of reasearch on P0400 codes you will find that people have tried plugging in working EGR solenoids (your co-worker's "resistor" trick is the same thing) and that doesn't work. You can try swapping out to an EJ22 manual transmission ECU. That may work since your 25D was a manual to begin with. GD

Flanges aren't even close, nor is the width. Pipe ID is too restrictive. Not worth the effort. I have a solution to that problem. We will be producing them soon. It's a flanged pipe that is either a slip fit or weld fit to the dual-port header by simply cutting off the dual port merge section right at the weld. These will be selling for about $65 to $75 a set and will fit in flat-rate boxes. TIG welded and water jet cut flanges. These are made by our own sube101 (http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=1081922&postcount=36): Finding single port EJ22 headers is very tricky. Subaru wants a mint for them and there are no aftermarket providers. GD

Crazier things have been done. But don't you think you should start with a bit smaller of a project first? I could do what you are proposing in my shop with the tool I have now - I would want for an item or two still but I could do it..... just. That is to say I could do it safely and accurately enough that I would allow my mother to ride in it. I think you fail to grasp the magnitude of the project you are proposing. There is not one single part on your car that will be compatible or even close. You are talking about taking the entire drivetrain and suspension from an EJ series and transplanting your body on top of it. The right way to do this is to strip the pickle down to a bare chassis, stick it on a rotisserie (which I don't even have - I would have to "make due" with just my car lift ) and start adding and subracting to make the EJ front and rear x-members bolt up. This takes a LOT of precision measurement, a bit of trigonometry, etc. There will be many hours of just staring at the thing deciding what/how you want to proceed. Trust me - I'm building a FIA spec roll cage for a Brat right now. And what you are proposing will be just as intense if not more. For what you want to do - wrecked WRX. Parts list: 1. All of them Oh - and: Step 1: Buy something else to drive for the next five years while your car is stripped to the unibody. Also - personally I don't beleive there is enough additional benefits to the EJ suspension to warrant going to the trouble to swap over to it. Now that's just my personal feeling on the matter. The Brat I'm building a roll cage for is shortly going to be running full five lug using selected peices from the EJ suspension, some custom bits, and some from the XT6.... but not the full system. Still runs trailing arms in the back, etc. And it was a lot less work that swapping to the full EJ x-members. GD

The frankenmotor is high compression (10.5:1 to 12:1). High compression and forced induction (of any kind) do not play together. Superchargers are not as efficient as turbo chargers and are a lot more invloved to attach being belt, chain, or gear driven. You are talking about a lot of custom machine work to even mount a SC and then mondo tuning besides. You can't just strap one on with bailing wire and rubber bands. This is a serious project and will require serious work to do it right by you or whomever you hire. Transmission and suspension.... your question of "how new can I go?" is a big clue that you aren't prepared to do this. The answer (of course) is that you can't go to anything newer without major modifications. And.... If you are willing to make major modifications then anything is possible. So that question has every possible answer and they are all accurate. Thus none of them are useful. GD

You have several choices: 1. Jam something in the ring gear at the back of the engine (flywheel or torque converter) - a punch or strong screwdriver, etc. I don't use this method. Tends to be frustrating and break tools. 2. Thread rope into the #1 cylinder on the compression stroke (all valves closed) and then tun the engine over till the piston jams against the head. 3. Use hysteresis. An object at rest tends to stay that way. IE - an impact wrench (I have an IR right-angle impact just for this), or a hefty ratchet handle and a 4 lb drilling hammer, etc. For my money and time - the 4 lb drilling hammer, hefty ratchet handle, 22mm socket, and hysteresis is the quickest method if you don't have air and impacts. Usually the balancer chewing into the timing cover is because the cover is soaked with oil from front main seal leaks and has swelled - bulging out at the bottom and contacting the balancer. Or it was improperly installed and is wobbling, etc. GD

Quickest removal method is going to be welding a nut to it and spinning it out with an impact. GD

Permatex Anaerobic or Loctite 518. RTV is also ok but I prefer the anaerobic flange sealants. GD

You can't rely on the gauge. Check your coolant temp with a temp gun. Your gauge is probably not accurate. GD

Possible but not desireable. Idle is going to depend on the engine. Most will not idle well that lean. It's lean *best* idle for a reason. You want a smooth idle but as lean as you can get and still have it smooth. Sometimes that mean stoich - sometimes richer. Usually not leaner though. WOT is going to be somewhere around 13 or 13.5 for best power and to keep EGT's reasonable. Part throttle cruise should be as lean as you can get without a lean surge. GD

Possible but not desireable. Idle is going to depend on the engine. Most will not idle well that lean. It's lean *best* idle for a reason. You want a smooth idle but as lean as you can get and still have it smooth.

I have not found this to apply to properly applied Permatex Anaerobic or Loctite 518. I have done multiple pans with these products and ran them immediately with no leaks. It's a great product and has virtually replaced all the RTV I use. It's easier to work with, never goes bad in the tube, doesn't stick permanently to rags and clothing, and cleans up easy. I do concur that RTV does seem to require some setup time for best adhesion and leak resistance. GD

Something I've discovered about flex-plate to TC bolts.... I now have a small car lift in my garage and can lift the car easily. I put the car about 18" off the ground and then I setup my bottle jack and jack the engine and tranny free from the cross-member (after doing the exhaust, the motor mounts, pitching stopper, and all that other fun stuff on the top). Then I remove the bell-housing dust cover and access the TC bolts from there. With the engine lifted about 3" to 4" they are easily accessed with a 3/8 drive socket and wobbly. Versus doing them from the hole on top of the engine. If the manifold is off then it's no problem to do them from there but otherwise it's often much simpler down below. GD

Grind the head off (die grinder and cut-off wheel, dremel, etc) and once the thread tension is released the leftover bit should just spin out by hand. GD

Evap system doesn't matter. Install the fuel pump in the same location as the old one. Replace the supply and return hoses with fuel injection hose. The return is smaller than the supply so you will have to use several different hose sizes. GD

Hhhmm - the Subaru SPFI pumps are 50 psi. The F150 pump in question is a frame-rail mounted pump for the 80's fuel injected models I believe. I always just use the EA82 SPFI pumps. Plentiful in the yards, low failure rate, and we have one running an EJ25 frankenmotor without issue. GD

Woof. That's just ugly in there. Glad you got wheels again. Not to worry the Baja will get all tuned up shortly GD

Hhhmmm - I'll have to dry drilling one of these just for kicks. They don't look real intimidating. GD

I need to get one of those.... I have a bluetooth one around here that can connect to my phone. When I get it talking to one of the cars I have here I'll see what it says about that. I think the fact that this came from people on a Dodge forum says all that needs to be said. What's really happening here is the cross-eyed Chrysler engineer read the directions wrong on his "O2 sensors for dummies play set" and so it's actually Toyota, Honda, and Subaru that are doing it "normal". GD

Exedy is OEM. Diakin was the OEM but is now owned by Exedy. GD

Bigger radiator will NOT make it run cooler. The temp of the engine is determined by the thermostat. The radiator could make it run hotter if it's too small or clogged - but larger is not going to make it run any cooler if the thermostat is working properly. GD

All aftermarket radiators have the transmission cooler lines. You don't need to block them. GD

Valve cover gaskets or oil pan gasket. GD

What do you consider "rediculous" for driveline cost? I can tell you who I've used to have driveline's made but it might be just as bad as the quote you got. Everything they told you rings true to what I've been told - have to use new yoke's and new tubing because of the way it neck's down on the ends and the odd tube sizing. I think they used Nissan yoke's on the last one we had made. Was about $375 for a single-peice driveline for an AWD swap in a Brat..... GD

When a Subaru blows a head gasket.... well there's degree's of blown. But a *small* leak will push exhaust gasses into the cooling system at a rate that isn't neccesarily going to cause overheating - bubbles escape out the radiator cap and into the overflow. The problem comes when the exhaust gas bubbles collect around the thermostat and insulate it from the coolant - then the thermostat closes even though the engine is hot.... and that stops the coolant flow resulting in an overheat. A pressure test may tell you nothing. A small leak in a HG may not show up because the engine isn't hot enough or the cylinder pressure isn't present as when the engine is running. I've seen MANY Subaru's with blown HG's that would drive fine with the thermostat pulled. That's always the first step to limping them home or to the shop, etc. Pull or gut the thermostat. Power loss, missing, etc are not symptoms of HG failure on Subaru's. Overheating is.... but not when the thermostat is pulled. GD