GeneralDisorder

Took a look at that '95 in my garage and it was indeed RR and HLA. GD

Subaru uses O2's the same way everyone else does. It's a narrow band O2.... I'm not sure how it could possibly be used any differently. Can this "someone elsewhere" explain exactly how it uses it differently? If not I call BS. Rear end noise is probably a wheel bearing. Wouldn't be surprising at that mileage. Not hard to do if you have a hub tamer or similar tool. Done much the same way as any other FWD car's *front* wheel bearings. Being AWD the front and rear are both pressed into a knuckle with an axle passing through them to a splined hub. GD

Each one is different. How you hook them up or if you hook them up depends on how you want to solve each problem and knowing how to deal with each one really depends on understanding how each of those systems work on both the Brat and the Legacy and deciding which, if either, you want to use. The oil pressure for instance - the Brat uses a sending unit for a gauge and the Legacy doesn't have a gauge - it uses an idiot light. So what do you want to do? You can plumb the Brat's sending unit into the EJ oil pump or you can add an idiot light to the Brat..... dealers choice. Tach is a differrent problem with a different solution. It has to be hooked to the tach signal generator. In the Brat's thats the negative side of the coil. On the Legacy it's a signal generator circuit in the ECU. So you just route the wire that went to the negative side of the coil to the tach signal generator pin of the ECU and the gauge will work. Each wire has it's own explanation for how and why it works and what possible solutions there are. You need to read the EJ swap threads and write-up's to get a handle on all of these and how you want to do it. I can't list them all here. GD

Missing thermostat usually means the HG's are already blown. Often they won't overheat if you take out the thermostat. GD

Ratcheting 12mm makes them easy to remove. Takes me about 5 minutes to remove the Maxima alts at the yards. It's harder than the Subaru's though. GD

Looks like it should be fine. I would trust that someone probably tested this combination if it's in a rebuild kit. The inlet needle's and seats always look somewhat different in the generic kits I've found. GD

There is no need for the pan gasket. I've done dozens of these engines without the gasket. It's troublesome and uneccesary and will eventually fail. The aftermarket cork is very soft compared to the dealer part also so it's not "five bucks" either. It's about $12. Doug is paranoid and I've proven mathematically that the .030" reduction in pan to pickup tube clearance is minor and not a source of oil flow restriction. You can check out these posts: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=1055286&postcount=47 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=1077906&postcount=136 GD

If your engine is in good condition otherwise - then yes. You should easily be able to maintain 90 MPH and acceleration with the Weber is excellent due to it's progressive linkage and larger barrels. I have had good mileage from my Weber's - as much as 32 mpg on freeway trips. Typically 26 to 28 in mixed driving. GD

Naw - just torque the bolts. I think it's around 55 In/lbs but look it up and make sure. GD

Rear oil gallery plug. It's a plug the size of a quarter - flat on top with an alan socket hole. It's just about right below the TPS on the top of the block. You can order a kit online that replaces this plug with the one used for the idiot light switch and comes with a flare fitting adaptor and a length of braided SS hose to run to your sending unit, etc on the firewall... GD

Install an oil pressure gauge and get a real reading from the engine. The light only requires >4 psi to shut off. It being off is not a good indication that proper oil pressure has been acheived. It just means it's probably over 4 psi. Anything under about 15 psi at idle when hot is bad. Under 10 is REALLY bad. Especially if measured at the pump. Best place to check the pressure is at the end of the main oil gallery at the rear plug. Should be just about right below the TPS on the top of the block.... New oil pump seals shut off the light on my EA81. Still only lasted 5k before it blew up. But no oil light for that 5k! GD

Yep. That's the one. They are getting really cheap these days. My local Redline dealer gets me the adaptors for the EA82 for about $35 and air filters are like $17 or something. Fuel filters are a buck. That's a little over $250. You can't hardly buy a reman Hitachi for that kind of value. And as car-parts go that's cheap for a performance and reliability upgrade. GD

Yeah call around to shops in your area. I pay $63 each from my local supplier. After shipping it would be more than that from rockauto. But then I have an awesome supplier . GD

Use a bottle jack and a small bit of wood to jack the engine free of the cradle - do this on the transmission bell-housing right behind the engine. Clean up all the surfaces and don't use a gasket - just use Ultra Grey RTV or Loctite 518/Permatex Anaerobic. Cork blows..... GD

It wouldn't be a significant savings over buying a new one I'm afraid. They are getting pretty cheap anymore. You can find brand new one's online for $199. Then you just have to buy the adaptor plate ($35) and the air filter ($15). I couldn't buy one, rebuild it, and sell it to you at any kind of worthwhile profit. I would love to do it for you just to be a nice guy - but I am far too busy right now to look for one, buy it, and rebuild it. I would have to charge more than a new one and it still wouldn't be new. GD

Oil pressure has to drop to between 2 to 4 psi to make that light stay on. It *should* be up around 20 when hot and should easily be around 40 when cold with thick oil... at idle. I'm afraid it's not long for this world if you are getting a consistent oil pressure light like that. Even if you replace the oil pump - I would give it about 5,000 to 10,000 more miles before a rod comes out the block. I really don't beleive that limping it along will work and the cost in time, labor, and parts to do so will not justify how long it will last. I've been through this exact scenario with an EA81 a few years back. Oil pressure idiot light was flickering at idle. I resealed the pump and the light went out . About 5,000 miles later a rod came out the block . GD

I have one in the garage right now with 137k on it about to drop into a Forester. I'll take a look and maybe a picture. Definitely a '95 - OBD-II and dual port heads..... GD

EJ223 is what I meant to say - sorry for the typo. All phase-II engines are RR and SLA. The tendancy with all the phase-II engines is for the valves to get tighter not looser.... so not sure what your clatter is. Could be piston slap. GD

We need a picture of this engine. Hard to say if you have an EA81T or an EA82T in there by your descriptions.... GD

Time for a new oil pump. It's a timing belt job. But.... with oil pressure that low and the knocking.... your bottom end is likely fried. I would just replace the engine. Not that hard and pretty cheap. GD

Sure it's possible. It's all about how much money you have an who you know. It's not going to be cheap. Probably not going to get something like that done for less than $1000 for a one-off.... much more likely that if anyone you find that's capable of doing it is willing to do it they are going to want a minimum of $10,000 for an initial order of 10 or more peices. GD

Sure. I run my own Subaru shop. I could do the whole job or give you pointers on it, or whatever assistance you need, etc. It's what I do every day . I have reasonable hourly rates. Probably get it installed and running for about $100. I'm working with a fellow board member who has access to water jet manufacturing on a new line of better fitting manifold adaptors for the Weber's to the EA81 and EA82. GD

Again - best answer I can give you is: I could easily do it in three hours. YMMV. :-p I don't know what you can or cannot do. All I can tell you is that I can install one in three hours. But I've done so many I've lost count. I can rebuild one almost as easily as I can field strip an M16.... which I can strip and reassemble in 40 seconds in the dark. GD

Then you can't ever work on it. So you won't have a car for long. GD

Never an easy sort of question to answer - actually it's impossible to answer in any meaningful way because it's too nebulous and lacking in background or focus....... Best I can give you.... Not hard for me. YMMV. :-p GD