GeneralDisorder

Yep that's a good example. Don't pay more than $100. Maybe a bit more for shipping. I buy these from locals all the time. I don't EVER pay more than $100 for a rebuilder. I don't care how good it looks or what they think it's worth. That's my top price and I'll just find another motivated seller if I don't get it for $100 or less. I do give some extra consideration to good condition DGV-5A's with the simplified manual choke system as those are harder to find and fit the EA82's with power steering much easier. GD

Save all the rear end parts that are good when you dissasemble it - those are all spares for your Brat. The tank is smaller on Hatchbacks though and is particular to that body. Everything else is good. Especially save the torsion bar assembly in case you ever need one. Sometimes they fail due to rust on your side of the country. GD

Sure. If it was cleaned up and made to not smell of gas, etc you could just plug all the ports, wrap the sharp edges, and slap a label on it. I got a large exhaust section (5' long and oddly shaped) from Fed-Ex that way just a few weeks ago (and they didn't even pad the sharp bits ). They don't even neccesarily care if you put it in a box. That's how they ship tires too. Slap a label on them and throw it on the truck . But yeah - a box, some packing (newspaper works well) and some duct tape over the holes so it doesn't leak anything in transit... etc. GD

32/36 DGV, DGEV, DGAV, or DGV-5A. I average $175 to $225 when I buy/rebuild/install Weber's. I've done about 20 or 30 of them over the years. Still own two myself. GD

Yeah I'm only interested in the tank itself. It could be shipped reasonable in a large box. They are only about 10" thick. You can snap off the bolts that hold it to the body - they aren't important to the integrity of the tank. Sending unit I can deal with. I can have the tank epoxy lined and such. There's a drain bolt on the bottom of the tank. If you can get that out and see what, if anything will drain out..... if it's solid and not leaking I may be interested in it..... course with all the rust you have there and how long it sat... may be junk. GD

Weber is THE way to go. Pick up a used one from craigslist or ebay for about $100 - no more. Most important thing to check for is LITTLE TO NO SHAFT PLAY!! Rebuild kit is $35, Adaptor plate and air filter is $50. Maybe a couple of jets at $5 each. Done and done. GD

Is it 4WD? If so how's the gas tank and what would you want for it? GD

Piston slap is benign and being 1 quart low wouldn't cause it.... Many Subaru engines develop this eventually when the coating wears off the piston skirts. Rebuilding it will not even solve the problem. You will have to have the skirts coated/knurled or replace the pistons which is prohibitively expensive. Just live with it - it's not harmful. GD

I've done HG's on as new as '06 for external leaking. Before 100k. GD

I did that the first time I did a 2.5 to 2.2 swap. Common mistake. We have all done it once. I do the flex-plate first after getting the engine seated in the x-member. Always. The one time I did that it did not hurt the transmission. I was able to swap to the 2.5 flex-plate and everything was fine. The automatics are great transmissions. They don't have many of the problems the MT's have. And the flex-plate bolts are not that hard to deal with once you have the process down. What I don't like is the lower tranny cooler line. That's a pain in the rump roast. GD

Phase-II started in 99 with the EJ223 in the base legacy and outback sport, and the EJ253 in the Forester and 2.5RS. The legacy Outback, and legacy GT retained the phase-I EJ25D till '00. GD

The lift kit is not at all compatible. EA81 is 74 HP, EA82 (carb) is 85 HP. GD

'99 is a phase-II engine and is competely incompatible. The heads on the phase-II are basically EJ251 heads. GD

EA81 and EA82 Hitachi carbs do not share the same bolt pattern and will not swap. It is possible to swap the whole manifold but it will take some work. GD

Sealed is best for automotive applications. Sheilded bearings are typically used in dry environments such as electric motors, etc. GD

You don't need a press for EA wheel bearings. They are 6207 ball bearings - you drift out the old one's with a brass punch and install new one's. No pressing, etc required. You can do them easily on the car without removing the knuckle. Hit up your local bearings supply for 6207-2RS bearings - should be about $8 to $12 each. You need two for each side. GD

EA82 is not a hatch. It's a three door coupe. We make this distinction in our community to avoid confusion as they were produced in the same years. GD

There are cases I've seen where the circuit through the ignition switch and inhibitor switch doesn't carry enough amps to kick out the solenoid hard enough. New battery cables won't solve that problem and a simple voltage drop test doesn't show anything - but installation of a relay for the crank circuit solves the problem forever. I've done half a dozen of these and it always seems to be the automatic's that suffer from this most. I've seen corroded cables from split insulation also. I would say that about 50 percent of the time it's solenoid contacts, 40 percent battery cables, and then there's that last 10 percent where it's the ignition circuit that won't carry enough capacity. GD

We know it's pin #50. Since multiple ECU from running vehicles have been tried - the problem is almost certainly an external ground for the ECU. So why does the ECU control both the power and ground to the pump? All the newer systems only control the power side via the fuel pump relay. This controls both? To what end? Apparently there are not codes present. He still doesn't have a CEL and the previous mechanic surely checked for codes - he's an idiot but he did work for Subaru and surely he knows enough to check that. The problem is.... finding those ground points. FSM doesn't say.... I agree that a ground somewhere leading to the ECU is dirty or disconnected. That is almost certainly the case. The problem is - he doesn't know where all the ground points are located and the FSM isn't helping. I would find out which pins on the ECU are supposed to lead to ground - and check them all. Any that are suspect can be spliced and new ground points added near the ECU. GD

Classic wheel bearing. You may not feel any play in the bearings - you can check but remember to disengage the parking brake when you check since it's on the front calipers. GD

-2RS is a double sealed bearing -2Z or -ZZ is a sheilded bearing and is not sealed. Grease is allowed to move (albeit slowly) from the sheilded bearing to the bearing pocket. Thus sheilded bearings can lose grease and can exchange grease and particulates with the bearing pocket. And there is such things and -RS, and -Z; these bearings have a seal or a sheild on only one side. They are rarely seen in practice because most often they just sell the ZZ or 2RS and tell you to remove one side. I have also bought "open" bearings without seals and then been given -ZZ bearing and told to remove the sheilds and wash out the grease from the bearing GD

Frankly it sounds like some front wheel bearings perhaps. Those are easy - just 6207 ball bearings. Worth a look for sure and I've heard them make serious clicking and growling noises, etc. To check the u-joints - when driving in a straight line - engage the 4WD and see if the noise changes. GD

The Bosch branded reman's are the best I've used apart from the one's from the dealer. I've had really excellent results from them. I occasionally find the Bosch reman's on the Maxima's also. One thing to note about the Maxima alts. Even the cheap remans tend to do fine in an EA Subaru. Remember these alts have 90 amps of capacity and aren't working very hard in a Subaru that came with a 50 amp when it was new. GD

+1 Starter contacts. Dealer sells them for $10. If, after new contacts, it still occurs - you need to add a relay to the crank circuit. You may have a poor connection in the circuit somewhere. A relay will cure the problem forever. GD

Yes it's a direct bolt-in. I have done it. You need to send Delta the 96+ cams for grinding the 1000 cam's though - the RR cams are made from stronger material and have to be finished differently. They can't use the 90 to 95 cams for that grind - has to be one of the RR variants (96 was RR and HLA while '97/'98 was RR and SLA). GD