GeneralDisorder

It's a 6202-2RS - you can get them at any bearing supply. They are common as dirt. GD

You cannot draw that conclusion from those symptoms and anecdotal evidence. That's not science. That's guessing. Why don't you check how many amps it's drawing? GD

In open class you will be running against some serious vehicles - prepped STi's and such.... Check out the Open Light class. Even at that - a 2.2 in that coupe is not going to be real fast. You need something like a high compression 2.5 or a turbo engine. The stock transmission doesn't have very favorable gearing either. Better to go with something that will have shorter gears. Are you prepared to do a full roll-cage, racing seats, harnesses, and all the other bits and peices needed to run in Rally? I would do that stuff first and run the car the way it is to see if it's something you want to pursue. GD

First of all - what type of pump do you have? Carb or fuel injected? Model and year would be helpful also And second - why would you think it's going out? An electrical draw causing the engine to change pitch is not a symptom of a failing fuel pump. That conclusion is not based on science - you need to determine to problem - not guess at the problem and throw $250 parts at it.... If I were you I would be looking at your alternator and electrical system. To test the fuel pump - check the fuel pressure. GD

I would push the insurance company to give you more because it's a rare touring model and only made the US market for '89. GD

XT6 control arms are much longer. Several inches. They will not work. When you put the weight of the car on them they will compress. Depending on the spring rate they may compress more or less than the EA81 springs. Thus the uncompressed length is pretty much meaningless. When you put it on the ground and drive it the camber will settle out. It's also adjustable with EJ knuckles and struts. The upper strut bolt is a camber adjusting cam bolt. GD

No. It will be fine. Just heat - don't keep going till you melt the thing. Generally speaking, while the flame is technically hot enough to melt aluminium, a casting the size of a carb top would take more BTUs/Hr than a small propane torch can put out to heat it to melting temp. This has to do with flame size, temp, and how much heat you can actually impart to the object being heated before that heat escapes.... aluminium disperses heat very, very quickly. GD

Cool. I find it helps to set them a bit on the tight side when adjusting the lash. GD

Your cracks are 100% normal. Don't do anything with them. Just surface the heads, lap the valves, and change the stem seals. My post on head surfacing: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=126868&highlight=apocalyptic http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80037-Valve-Grinding-Compound/dp/B000FW4MFC/ref=sr_1_31?ie=UTF8&qid=1328809553&sr=8-31 (look at the "frequently bought together" listing for the tool, compound, and prussian blue to check your surfaces). GD

No - as long as the needle can move freely and will seat in the bottom it will be fine. The top where that screwdriver slot is located is not a critical surface. GD

Yeah you need a large screwdriver. Also often helps to give threaded items like that a sharp blow with a hammer/punch - breaks the corrosion bond. An impact screwdriver would be perfect but you would have to custom grind a bit to fit that seat. If it were really stuck then I would probably sacrifice a socket extension and grind it to fit that slot then use the impact driver. GD

You did this with it in the air or with the weight of the car on them? GD

Between valve cracks are NORMAL. All EA82 heads have these. Subaru has issued a TSB to ignore them. You can easily resurface the heads yourself and rent a valve spring compressor to take out the valves and install new seals. An inexpensive kit to lap the valves smooth is also a good idea. You don't need a machine shop to do these things and in any case they clearly have no experience with these heads. GD

Did you do a valve adjustment or does this one have hydro lifters? GD

New cable is around or less than $25 from the dealer. Just get a new one.... assuming that straightening the engine side bracket isn't working for you. Usually what causes me to replace them is binding and a hard feel to the pedal due to freying near where the cable enters the sheath. I haven't had one stretch..... GD

True - but if you just installed a repair sleeve and TOB then why not just continue to use both? The juddering will not have damaged the TOB. If it's still new then I'm not seeing why you would replace it. Sell the one from the Exedy kit to a board member for $20 shipped. GD

Didn't you already install one? Typically when you install a snout repair kit it's good for the life of the car - since the new snout surface is not aluminium anymore.... only reason you would have to replace that is if you need to split the transmission case. GD

Heh. I DON'T wish I was in Wisconsin..... though there is a lot of Soobs there I hear. Soobs and snow ... and rust . GD

Exedy is THE clutch manufacturer that Subaru uses. All OEM clutches are stamped "Daikin" which is a subsidiary of Exedy. The Exedy kits are factory quality because they ARE factory. Amazon sells almost everything under the sun. They have the best prices on Exedy clutches and free shipping. I cannot beat their price anywhere online or otherwise. Looks up the clutch part number on Exedy's web site and use that at Amazon to find the kit you need. GD

Bring it down to me. I just did an '04 Baja around Christmas. Total cost with a 125k used engine (with warrantee), new head gaskets, all new timing components, seals, and tune up parts was $2400 (engine was $1400). He was very happy with the outcome - board member from Seattle actually. I can come get the car and tow it back to my shop in Portland for about $250. Take the bus or train down and pick it up... etc. GD

Junk clutch I would bet. Exedy clutch (Amazon has the best prices), resurface flywheel, sand the snout with 220 grit to soften the wear marks, and grease the crap out of it. Same with the fork pivot, etc. I never have juddering problems with my clutch installs. GD

Better option is to sleeve the EA81 ball joints with a section of 1-1/4" exhaust tubing - notched for the pinch bolt and tack welded to the ball joint of course. XT6 arms won't fit the EA81 - too long. GD

All will be made clear when we post about the custom races and axle builds. Suffice to say that the single axle you have dissasembled is not representative of all legacy axles. There's about a dozen different varieties. Don't worry about the one you have not being compatible. Some are. GD

As I said we are making custom races for the front axles. That's what I've been talking about this whole time.... GD

All Brat (EA81) axle bars have the 23 spline outer joint interface. Legacy joints are either 22, 25, or 30 spline. You don't use any of the XT6 stuff in the rear except the hub, rotor, backing plate, and caliper/bracket. Everything else is left EA81. The XT6 and EA81 (and EA82) hubs all use the same interface and all swap. GD