GeneralDisorder

Your best bet and easiest to find would be the EJ25 from '00 to '04 or so. Should plug right up to the 2.2 harness. GD

Yes but as I've pointed out numerous times it's not really an issue either way. Belt breakage is extremely unlikely. GD

Jacob was told it would work by the EMPI axle "guru" in CA. Turns out it does not work. GD

The only way I know to do what you are asking is to install a transmission equipped with DCCD. That means a very rare JDM 5 speed with DCCD or a 6 speed USDM STi transmission with a standalone DCCD controller. Figure on spending about $3000 to $4000 for the transmission and standalone system.... plus installation and custom fab work, etc. The AWD transmissions have a viscous coupler that is either made in 4Kg or 20 Kg versions apparently.... though all that 20Kg unit does is make it *more* like a 4WD and I've only heard they exist - I've never seen one and wouldn't know where to get one. It will not actively transfer more or less torque anywhere... just makes it harder for the front to turn independantly from the rear. GD

That is almost certainly a 95 or 96 2.2 from a manual transmission car (well the intake is anyhow). If the heads are dual exhaust port it's a '95. If they are single it's a '96. GD

Trust me - you don't want a P0400 code. And HE will have to register it out of the area if he doesn't fix the CEL from the EGR.... Two possibilities - either the guy recently reset the codes to get rid of the CEL. It can take a few days and multiple drive cycles to pull the P0400 code.... or the CEL is not working/rewired/removed. I suppose since it's a manual they may have used the 2.2 MT ECU.... that's always a possibility and should eliminate the code. GD

That has the stupid dodge neon coil pack conversion and it wasn't even done using the right plug wires. Are those 25D plug wires I'm seeing sticking out of the 22E heads?!? Really scary and stupid. Someone was when they did that engine swap. That 2.2 has no EGR - what did they do about the CEL that you will inevitably get....? all the 25D cars have EGR and you will get a CEL if you don't equip the 2.2 with it. Can't pass emissions that way. And yeah - the hot air intake is a huge FTL. GD

There is no active torque distribution on a FT4WD transmission. Torque is not split front/rear. It just goes to the wheel with the least friction. Since there is no mechanism in the transmission to split the torque - there is nothing to modify that will change said mechanism.... It's an open diff or a locked diff. There is no in-between with your tranny. You can lock it into 4WD and remove the front axles to make it 100% rear wheel drive. But the tranny will not take that kind of abuse forever. You will strip out the 4WD transfer gears eventually. They weren't designed to take all the power the engine can make. GD

I can see the temptation to swap the knuckle. But I really think that the same amount of time spent looking for a used one could be spent finding a local shop that has a hub tamer, press, etc and the know-how to properly install the bearing for you if you bring them the knuckle. I will PROPERLY install any EJ bearing for anyone local that brings me a knuckle and new bearings/seals for $20 and a 6 pack of Rolling Rock. Or as you said you can rent the hub tamer type tools from various auto parts suppliers. They want to sell you the bearings and seals and are happy to have you leave a deposite on the tool and then bring it back and refund your deposit when you are done. The instructions are simple and there's write-up's online with pictures. GD

I do them with the knuckle on the car - no messing with ball joints, camber alignment, etc. No dealing with yards, pulling used crap off in the cold, or phoning around - just buy a bearing and some seals that are both in-stock at my supplier for about $45 for all of it and install them. Takes about an hour total. Done and done. GD

That's what THEY are saying. It's not what I'm saying :-p GD

I've done both and personally - for my money a new bearing is the way to go. Cheaper and done correctly it will last the rest of the life of the car. Pickle forks are silly. If you want to pop a ball joint without damaging the boot - spend the $16 on one of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-point-joint-separator-99849.html I've used this dozens of times and it's never failed and never ripped a boot. GD

Can't see your pics but by your description of the location I would lean toward a leaking water pump gasket or weep hole, lower radiator hose, bypass hose, or thermostat housing, etc. EJ22's don't leak coolant externally from the head gaskets. When they fail they blow compression gasses into adjacent coolant ports. I would say it's highly unlikely that you have found the first and only external HG leak on an EJ22 that I've seen or heard of. Much more likely that you need a timing belt/WP job and a complete reseal - valve covers, cam seals, etc. If it runs fine and doesn't overheat - you will probably be fine with it. The EJ22 is inexpensive and can easily be replaced if needed for about $500. GD

If it's really a 22T - split the block and do a full rebuild. You don't want to accidentally kill one of those and you can't inspect the bearings without splitting the case. That engine is rare and valuable. GD

Clean out your pcv hoses and fittings and replace the pcv filter in the airbox. GD

Unequal length (UEL) just makes it sound cooler. That's really the major benefit. And being able to say you have a header.... . Performance is minor to those two goals for the people that want these. GD

Examples of his work http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=1080171&postcount=22 GD

It's definitely a process that takes time. We are waiting on the production of our races. When they are here we will be offering them for sale. $100 per set. Each set will build two front axles. We aren't even making any money off them - just covering our research, production and shipping costs. It's $1000 to run off 12 cars worth of these races. That was a minimum order and we only need 4 sets for our personal use and what's been spoken for by local friends. GD

Inner joints that fit the Brat bar are available in both 23 and 25 spline DOJ cups. Outer legacy style joints are not - that is why we are building these conversion races. There is no other options besides custom outer joint inner races or custom bars. I've already done all the research and I can tell you for certain that is the case. GD

I wasn't implying that you shouldn't build one. I'm just letting you know that we are going to be producing them in case you would rather buy than build. I appoligize if it sounded like I was trying to dissuade you from building them. However - unless your price is crazy cheap.... sube101 builds AMAZING products - he is a professional exhaust manufacturer - not an exhaust shop. His TIG welds look like a machine did them and he has access to bending and cutting equipment that makes people like us drool. He mandrel bends 2" tube on a 3" R and his company has their own water jet production setup, etc. His headers have been featured in magazines. He doesn't have a firm price yet but it will be less than the last group-buy on RS25. GD

No telling really. Could go 10,000 miles - could go 3. With the front diff totally gone like that it really depends on where the metal is at and what it decides to jam itself into. Could be a sudden and violent seizure. I would tell anyone interested in buying that they drive it ANY distance at their own risk. GD

You will need an NTN Legacy outer joint with the part number 87LAC on it. The races we are making will match the guts of the 87LAC to the 23 spline Brat axle bar. GD

Nope. GD

It's been done (about 25 were made) and it's going to be done again. Already have the flanges water jet cut and just waiting on a chance to copy one of the UEL headers that's on a board member's car near here. GD

No way to tell really unless it's a manual and has a hydro lifter engine in it. Why does it matter? GD