GeneralDisorder

Used will do you no good. They are all shot. Here was my repair - cost about $15 for the parts. That was over 3 years ago and about 30k miles. No signs of any kind of problem. http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=37471 GD

That seems very unlikely. How did you determine it's the tranny? GD

Pretty unlikely to find any 22T's in good condition at the u-pull-it type places. People know what those are worth and in all my years in the yards around here I've seen maybe two or three. That's in over a decade of junk-yarding. GD

Yeah I think the 300ZX alts are the same size and ear pattern for quite a few years. Problem is the Z31 alts are only 70 amp and the Z32 alts are 80 amp - compared to the Maxima at 90 amp. And both are harder to find in the yards. The Maxima alts are plentiful, cheap to buy new (for some reason Z32 alts are up around $200 and Z31 alts are the same price as Maxima units), and more powerful. GD

Yeah the parts arean't actually that bad from Subaru. I wouldn't mess with aftermarket junk. GD

Bearing puller wouldn't work - not any that I've seen anyway. You use a large steel or brass drift and a BIG hammer. The biggest mistake people make when trying to knock out bearings, or really anytime you want to MOVE some serious metal is not using the right tool. If you want to move something the size of a 6207 that's been in place for years inside a net-zero type of housing fitment..... 4lb hammer and at least a 3/4" thick punch. Brass works but steel is even better. If you absolutely can't get them out pull the knuckle off and bring it to me. I'll remove them for free. But beware - you will be embarrased at how easily I knock them out . If you get bearings (go to a bearing supply house like McGuire and get 6207-2RS-C3's) then I can install those for you at the same time. I built a special install driver for them from a crapped out 6207 outer race, a pipe nipple, and a cap. GD

That's for the whole car with engine - he would drive it home. If you just want me to do the engine - considerably less. I completely rebuilt a 251 and turned it into a frankenmotor for a board member recently for $830 out the door. That's with having the crank undersized .010" on the mains and .020" on the rods, one used connecting rod, block tanked, decked, and honed, new rings/rods/mains, valve job on the heads and resurfaced. And that's fully assembled with OEM head gaskets, block o-rings, rear main, etc. I didn't do the timing belt and water pump nor did I install an oil pump on it. So that's just the short block with heads installed. A 2.0 would be more - mainly due to the DOHC heads which are more costly to rebuild and reshim the valves. Probably closer to $1000. I have a trailer and could come get the car for gas and $100 for my day. It's hard to get away for a whole day anymore GD

I could rebuild it for less than that. Probably be about $800 labor (R&R and dissasemble/reassemble) and around $1000 machine shop and parts costs, etc. Those are high estimates but you never know how many communist gnomes have been making weapons in there . It wouldn't be a two-day turn around at those prices but I could get it done within a reasonable time frame. If he wants fast turn-around his best option is a new engine from Subaru - which is definitely going to run at least $3k plus labor. These engines run about $2500 in "good" used condition. But I wouldn't buy a used 2.0 turbo. That's a gamble I wouldn't take. Besides - I can rebuild it for less than the cost of a used engine. GD

That's not a bad way to go. I like the concept. Keeping the outer seal and only removing the inner would prevent damage to the seal from removal and installation. It also depends on the bearing spec you buy. There are different grades of bearings with different types of grease, etc. I typically by electric motor grade bearings. GD

All that sounds reasonable Your car is cable clutch. I would stick with that. That means 90 to 96 transmissions. And no turbo transmissions. Comes with the clutch kit. Buy ONLY an Exedy kit. Amazon has the best price. All the axles that will fit your car will interchange. Steer clear of turbo transmissions - going to be a headache and you don't need one with an EJ22. Outback tranny from '96 will give nice close ratios with stock Legacy tire sizes. I have some info but I've never done exactly what you are proposing. Though I have a customer that wishes to do this on a '96. You will have to bypass the neutral start inhibitor wires in the plug that went to the automatic shifter. Should be easy to find with a meter. Stay away from the turbo stuff. It will make your swap a much harder and more expensive process with the hydro pull clutch, different flywheel, and all that mess... And it's really uneccesary unless you are pushing over 200 HP or so. The non-turbo 5MT's are just as good and are unlikely to have been abused as much as a cheap WRX tranny. GD

You *should* change to the EJ22 ECU and add the knock sensor. The EJ18's aren't equipped with knock sensors and you really should have one. GD

Sounds like your cone washers are shot to me. GD

Standard EA82 AC tensioner - just replace the bearing and it will be fine. You aren't likely to need a spare in the car's lifetime. GD

Depends on the bearings you use. In the case of the bearings he is installing they come sealed for life and you cannot access the grease cavity. I have NTN and Koyo bearings for EJ cars going on 100k with the grease provided by the manufacturer and haven't had a single failure. It's all about your installation technique and treating the bearings carefully. There ARE bearings that come without grease though. Most of your auto parts store junk brands come dry or with just a smear of something to keep theme from rusting in the box. It's usually pretty easy to tell if the grease is to be used or not. GD

I use this same one and it's never failed me. Good buy for the price. GD

6202-2RS can be had from any bearing house for $5 or less. NAPA sells them as alternator bearings. You can knock out the old bearing and install the new one with a bench vise, a punch, and a socket to drive in the new one. Very simple. GD

The pinch welds are very strong and will not collapse if you use a rubber pad on your lift to spread the load. They get crushed when shops don't spread the load. I lift all Subaru's from the pinch welds on my lift and I've never had a problem. GD

I do not beleive that is accurate. 36 psi above manifold *pressure* means the fuel pressure is 36 psi till you hit boost and then increases with each pound of boost. When they say 36 I think they mean at idle with normal manifold vacuum already compensated for. At least that's what I think the manual is trying to convey. As to the OP's problem - I beleive you have a bad CTS. The gauge does not use the ECU's CTS - it uses a seperate gauge sender. So you can't assume that because the gauge is working the ECU is getting the correct coolant temp reading. The connectors like to get dirty also. GD

Multi-port and Single-port are different castings. MPFI heads did not have the boxed EA82 symbol till after they stopped making the EA82T - 1990 was the last year that used the multi-port castings and thus no EA82T was equipped with gen-3 heads from the factory. GD

You don't need much for the sealed bearings - just a little for the lip seals on the knuckle. I put a smear on either side of each bearing to keep the seals moist and load up the groove in the lip seal. Red "japanese" grease. Nothing special. GD

Sounds like a possible wheel bearing. GD

The only switch used by your ECU is the neutral switch. And you don't even really need that. Just wire it to the clutch pedal switch that trips off the cruise control and it won't care what tranny you put in it. You can't change the front input shaft seal without splitting the case. Maybe.... I would have to look. I will soon enough as I'm building another EJ transmission with an OBX front for a customer. I have some flywheel's 2.2's and maybe a 2.5 - none are junk. They can be resurfaced for $30 or so and used no problem. GD

4EAT's didn't come out till '87. It's going to be a 3AT. Probably with 23 spline stubs but possibly with 25 spline's.... I haven't seen enough of those early turbo 3AT's to say for sure what it would have had. I suspect it would be 23. GD

Those 5 items should run about $35 to $40. Thats what it would be at my dealer anyway. GD

Ground is ground. The whole chassis is ground. Grounding the pump locally, while not what the engineer's intended, is not going to damage anything that hasn't already been damaged and if it gets the car running so you can drive it till he finds the resources to track down the true issue then it's a perfectly safe option. All the EJ powered Subaru's ground their fuel pumps through the chassis not through the ECU. This is proof positive that it's safe and works. The '85 turbo ECU might not be happy about it but as I said - that can be sorted out later. The ground runs directly to pin 50 on the ECU and if all else fails a new wire can be run there. But I doubt that would prove necessary. It should take about 5 minutes to determine if a new wire needs to be run to the ECU or if the ECU needs a new ground source.... Not 5 hours. If he wants to use dealer parts that's fine. But then not aquireing those parts for the customer is unreasonable. What he should say (in the interest of customer service) is "I will install those parts if you supply them but I will not warrantee the parts or the labor because I did not source them". That, IMO, is a fine policy. Though I do not agree with him that *only* OEM boots are acceptable. There are RACING boots made of silicone or urethane availible from the likes of Rockford CV, etc that will far outperform the factory one's. It's all a matter of what you want. And if the customer wants what I feel is inferior I will note my objection and the lack of warantee - if they still want it done then who am I to stop them? Bring the police. Take your car elsewhere. GD