GeneralDisorder

Try swapping out the ignitor on the firewall - about center of the engine bay, up high on the firewall. Should be a small, flat, black box with a 6 pin connector. Sounds like it might have a temp related short. Any used ignitor from 90 to 98 (99 Legacy 2.5's also) will work. Might need the bracket as they changed shape over the years a bit. GD

You always have the darndest questions! My book indicates that's the automatic kick-down relay. GD

Sounds like you have voltage at the pump and the relay is working. The ECU cycles the pump for about 1.5 seconds when you firs turn the key on then will only run the pump continuously if you are cranking or the engine is running (tach signal present). If you suspect the pump is bad then run 12v directly to it and see if it comes on. Should be really simple to test. I have a jump pack for starting dead cars and I use that for things like fuel pump testing. Couple aligator clipped test leads and you'll know for sure. GD

And I've driven an 87 turbo wagon 100 miles and had the head gaskets blow out. And so have many folks here. After sitting for that long - anything could happen. Probably be about $150 to $200 for all the hoses. GD

Fuel pump only gets voltage when cranking or running. Did you test for voltage while cranking? GD

I don't have any pictures, but here's some links that will be helpful: http://www.northursalia.com/modifications/misc/wiring/wiring.html http://wordpress.suberdave.com/?page_id=175 (password: Subaru) http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/downloads.htm GD

In practice the gauge reads just above cold with an EJ swap. The resistor is only a "trick" to get the gauge to read similar at a single temp. It's not a linear mapping and isn't accurate for anything other than operating temp. GD

EA82 Turbo. Many here consider this the worst Subaru engine made. They blow head gaskets, crack heads, and are generally just a huge pain in the neck. If you really plan to drive it a long distance - no one here would do that without changing every rubber bit on that engine - especially the coolant hoses and lines, thermostat (dealer only), and checking it over really well. Go to the DEALER and order EVERY coolant hose listed for the car. Only the dealer will list them ALL. This is standard practice for all older turbocharged cars. GD

She's going to hate life when she has to buy tires for that. :cool: That's not a horrific vehicle mechanically - but it does scream mid-life crisis and if it's a V8 then it's still a gas guzzler. Purple Camaro with rimz FTMFL. GD

Any industrial bearing supply house. It's a 6000 series ball bearing. Probably a 6202 or 6203 - you can likely find it under an "alternator bearing" listing at NAPA. Bearing house would be higher quality and cheaper. GD

As I said - if it's leaking or has been replaced with a cockeyed aftermarket peice of crap - then I replace them. But INSPECT before determining. If you don't look at it you can't tell. Telling people to "NEVER touch" one is silly and ignorant. GD

YOU HAVE A FACTORY ALUMINIUM PLATE. RESEAL IT! 251's DO NOT have plastic plates - at any rate if it did it would be BLACK which is the color of the plastic plates on 96 to 99 25D's. Cripes! You people are making him buy junk he doesn't need. What you WILL need is an impact screwdriver and a #3 phillips bit to get the bolts loose. Or drill the heads off and replace them. GD

Is this a turbo or non turbo? And what year? GL-10 is pretty much meaningless - it's a trim level and accesory package that changed virtually yearly. GD

Larger is not better for oil filters. Takes longer for the filter media to "plateau" at it's optimum micron filtration level. Too large and that will never happen between frequent oil changes (which is common amongst folks that are also looking for "bigger" on the filter) and certain particulate sizes will never actually be filtered. Then you have differences in bypass valve construction, anti-drain-back vs. none, and other metrics that size and thread alone will not tell you. Too frequent on the oil changes will result in the slight alkalinity of brand new oil causing etching of bearing surfaces. New oil is alkaline to offset the acidic nature of blow-by gasses. This is all carefully engineered and you can cause serious problems by doing arm-chair engineering of lubrication systems with rule-of-thumb guessing games and myths about filtration, etc. Better to just leave it alone - OEM filters from Subaru are inexpensive and provide excellent and correct filtration. If you want more oil capacity consider a full-flow oil cooler. That will increase capacity and cooler oil lasts longer. Cool oil and full synthetic with 5k changes will do more for your engine than anything else you can do lubrication system wise. GD

Need to get out of that ASE parts-hanging-monkey mentality. Install a new bearing in the AC belt tensioner. Should be about $5. GD

For most people the adaptor plate would be easier because they lack the ability to fab the shifter and the cross-member. Adaptor and flywheel are availible to order from folks like SJR and others. No one out there makes the linkage and cross-member parts for an EJ 2WD transplant. If you can fab then the linkage and cross-member would probably be cheaper. But then you have to buy a transmission. Not that 2WD EJ transmissions are real expensive.... Just depends on your time, money, and abilities. GD

We aren't talking about a stuck-open cap. We are talking about a seal or spring that can't hold full pressure. Your's never develops pressure - a failed cap will develop some pressure but not hold the full 13psi that the system is designed to run at. I've personally seen failed caps cause this exact symptom. One of my customers experienced it not long ago - I got a call to come look at her car because it was overheating - I got there and coolant had overflowed the bottle. I filled it up and ran it to operating temp and coolant could be clearly seen running out of the overflow tube into the bottle. I cleaned the cap seal and got it to stop even though the seal was pitted and cracked. Replacing the cap the next day solved the problem and it's been fine for about a year since then. GD

You have a metal seperator. Reseal it with RTV or anaerobic sealant. GD

Great tools. I have the 14mm and the 17mm in 3/8" (would never use most of the sizes in a "set" of them and Sears is always a fun trip if I found I needed another size) and I have a selection of 1/4" drive one's - 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm. GD

Definitely could have been the radiator cap. If that doesn't fix it - then you have blown a HG. Don't pass go, don't collect $200. Been there, done that, got the t-shirt. More times than I can count. GD

That's how I get to the lower bell-housing bolt to remove the engine. 14mm wobbly socket and 18" extension. Never done that for a starter though. GD

You get about a 6" extension and a 14mm socket and you position the ratchet handle behind the starter body so you have room to swing it. Sometimes a ratcheting box wrench or normal box wrench works also. And sometimes you can get it with a stubby 14mm box wrench.... Anyway I've never lifted any Subaru to get at a lower starter nut. GD

I replace rear mains all the time and never have a problem. I've built more EJ engines than most people on here have resealed and you don't really get a choice to "leave it" when you are assembling a newly machined block. It's true that the factory rear main is Viton and they rarely fail. But I've seen plenty that were improperly installed or had been changed to aftermarket junk at some point in the past - making replacment a neccessity. You have to make a judgement call but don't just decide to leave it alone without inspecting it. That's foolish. If you have to replace it do it right - buy or make a proper seal driver (ABS drain cleanout and a cap works well - just size it up at Home Depot) and drive it in EVENLY and FLUSH with the case. From the picture it does appear that the seperator plate is a worse problem than the rear main. But check it anyway. GD

Really? Subaru starters are really simple to get at - you do it all from above and it's two bolts and two wires. I've never swapped a starter out and had it take more than 20 minutes. Could have saved yourself $190 and just replaced the bad contacts. That's all they usually need. Every Subaru ends up needing a set of starter contacts at some point in it's life. My local dealer has them in stock at all times. You just remove the 4 little screws on the back of the solenoid, slide out the plunger, clean it up, and replace the contacts. You want a fun starter to replace? Try a Toyota Paseo. Or any transverse GM V6. GD

Of course the bearings will be loose if you pull the drum off - that's what holds them in there tight . How do you know they are bad? GD