GeneralDisorder

Any industrial bearing supply house. It's a 6000 series ball bearing. Probably a 6202 or 6203 - you can likely find it under an "alternator bearing" listing at NAPA. Bearing house would be higher quality and cheaper. GD

As I said - if it's leaking or has been replaced with a cockeyed aftermarket peice of crap - then I replace them. But INSPECT before determining. If you don't look at it you can't tell. Telling people to "NEVER touch" one is silly and ignorant. GD

YOU HAVE A FACTORY ALUMINIUM PLATE. RESEAL IT! 251's DO NOT have plastic plates - at any rate if it did it would be BLACK which is the color of the plastic plates on 96 to 99 25D's. Cripes! You people are making him buy junk he doesn't need. What you WILL need is an impact screwdriver and a #3 phillips bit to get the bolts loose. Or drill the heads off and replace them. GD

Is this a turbo or non turbo? And what year? GL-10 is pretty much meaningless - it's a trim level and accesory package that changed virtually yearly. GD

Larger is not better for oil filters. Takes longer for the filter media to "plateau" at it's optimum micron filtration level. Too large and that will never happen between frequent oil changes (which is common amongst folks that are also looking for "bigger" on the filter) and certain particulate sizes will never actually be filtered. Then you have differences in bypass valve construction, anti-drain-back vs. none, and other metrics that size and thread alone will not tell you. Too frequent on the oil changes will result in the slight alkalinity of brand new oil causing etching of bearing surfaces. New oil is alkaline to offset the acidic nature of blow-by gasses. This is all carefully engineered and you can cause serious problems by doing arm-chair engineering of lubrication systems with rule-of-thumb guessing games and myths about filtration, etc. Better to just leave it alone - OEM filters from Subaru are inexpensive and provide excellent and correct filtration. If you want more oil capacity consider a full-flow oil cooler. That will increase capacity and cooler oil lasts longer. Cool oil and full synthetic with 5k changes will do more for your engine than anything else you can do lubrication system wise. GD

Need to get out of that ASE parts-hanging-monkey mentality. Install a new bearing in the AC belt tensioner. Should be about $5. GD

For most people the adaptor plate would be easier because they lack the ability to fab the shifter and the cross-member. Adaptor and flywheel are availible to order from folks like SJR and others. No one out there makes the linkage and cross-member parts for an EJ 2WD transplant. If you can fab then the linkage and cross-member would probably be cheaper. But then you have to buy a transmission. Not that 2WD EJ transmissions are real expensive.... Just depends on your time, money, and abilities. GD

We aren't talking about a stuck-open cap. We are talking about a seal or spring that can't hold full pressure. Your's never develops pressure - a failed cap will develop some pressure but not hold the full 13psi that the system is designed to run at. I've personally seen failed caps cause this exact symptom. One of my customers experienced it not long ago - I got a call to come look at her car because it was overheating - I got there and coolant had overflowed the bottle. I filled it up and ran it to operating temp and coolant could be clearly seen running out of the overflow tube into the bottle. I cleaned the cap seal and got it to stop even though the seal was pitted and cracked. Replacing the cap the next day solved the problem and it's been fine for about a year since then. GD

You have a metal seperator. Reseal it with RTV or anaerobic sealant. GD

Great tools. I have the 14mm and the 17mm in 3/8" (would never use most of the sizes in a "set" of them and Sears is always a fun trip if I found I needed another size) and I have a selection of 1/4" drive one's - 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm. GD

Definitely could have been the radiator cap. If that doesn't fix it - then you have blown a HG. Don't pass go, don't collect $200. Been there, done that, got the t-shirt. More times than I can count. GD

That's how I get to the lower bell-housing bolt to remove the engine. 14mm wobbly socket and 18" extension. Never done that for a starter though. GD

You get about a 6" extension and a 14mm socket and you position the ratchet handle behind the starter body so you have room to swing it. Sometimes a ratcheting box wrench or normal box wrench works also. And sometimes you can get it with a stubby 14mm box wrench.... Anyway I've never lifted any Subaru to get at a lower starter nut. GD

I replace rear mains all the time and never have a problem. I've built more EJ engines than most people on here have resealed and you don't really get a choice to "leave it" when you are assembling a newly machined block. It's true that the factory rear main is Viton and they rarely fail. But I've seen plenty that were improperly installed or had been changed to aftermarket junk at some point in the past - making replacment a neccessity. You have to make a judgement call but don't just decide to leave it alone without inspecting it. That's foolish. If you have to replace it do it right - buy or make a proper seal driver (ABS drain cleanout and a cap works well - just size it up at Home Depot) and drive it in EVENLY and FLUSH with the case. From the picture it does appear that the seperator plate is a worse problem than the rear main. But check it anyway. GD

Really? Subaru starters are really simple to get at - you do it all from above and it's two bolts and two wires. I've never swapped a starter out and had it take more than 20 minutes. Could have saved yourself $190 and just replaced the bad contacts. That's all they usually need. Every Subaru ends up needing a set of starter contacts at some point in it's life. My local dealer has them in stock at all times. You just remove the 4 little screws on the back of the solenoid, slide out the plunger, clean it up, and replace the contacts. You want a fun starter to replace? Try a Toyota Paseo. Or any transverse GM V6. GD

Of course the bearings will be loose if you pull the drum off - that's what holds them in there tight . How do you know they are bad? GD

Certainly could be the case. I just wanted to insure that we covered all the bases and the cone washer is very often overlooked as a source of noises, etc. When the castle nut continues to loosen no matter how many times you tighten it - that's usually a cone washer failure. GD

I'm not saying that the law is conjecture. Certainly any changes made to the system will follow Pascal's law. What I'm saying is that the stock configuration is only one of many possible configurations that are acceptable (mathematically) and without doing the math you really don't know *how far* away from stock you have traveled with each change. Maybe it's a lot and it's not going to work - but maybe it's only a small amount and the net increase in required pedal pressure is both within the limitations of what the system can stand and within what a driver is capable of. I still say - without numbers the qualitative statements to the effect of "It will not work" or "it works just fine for me" are not provable in any real sense. Pascals law is an immutable law of nature but without the numbers we don't fully know how his law effects what we are doing. People have said "this is the law" and they have then jumped to "so you can't do it - because of the law!". Science doesn't work that way. You can't get to one from the other. The law only specify's how nature works - it doesn't specify if something is "good" or "bad" - that's subjective and we need more specific data to get a clear view of what constitutes good, bad, or otherwise. GD

They might be calling it a Loyale. Subaru didn't until 1990 in the US. They were called GL's and DL's. And some GL-10's, etc. The yard has poor quality computers. The car's SAY "GL" on the back of them . GD

It makes sense for sure. But you still haven't provided any numbers. I haven't done the math either but what if it turns out that the additional pressure needed at the pedal is only like 10 lbs? That wouldn't be a problem for a lot of us. Also - the common swap is to put EA82T discs on where the EA drums were before. How does the rear caliper piston size compare to the drum cylinder piston size? And how does that affect pedal pressure when combined with stock front brakes? All conjecture without actual numbers. Have to go measure MC pistons, caliper pistons, and wheel cylinder pistons and run the actual numbers. GD

The quill is cast into the tranny like an EJ transmission or a single range 4WD and you can't access the front input shaft seal without splitting the case. I can scan the tranmission case diagram from my fsm if you like.... Purely acedemic - but I don't know of any Subaru manual transmissions where the input shaft seal can be replaced without splitting the case. That goes for D/R, AWD, 2WD, etc. GD

That would be really great. I've never been able to find the cone washer's outside of the dealership. GD

5A is a manual choke in my experience. Should be a DGV not a DGAV though I've seen DGAV stamped on DGEV's that were electric not water heated choke. Agreed - either one should work fine. GD

97+ for the 2.2. 90 to 96 are non-interferance. In practice it just doesn't matter. Belt breakage is highly unlikely. GD

If it has one it does go in the cat housing. But you can weld in a bung anywhere after the collector for the O2. It doesn't depend on the function of the cat or a cat being present. GD