GeneralDisorder

Naw it was aimed at the OP, not you. I generally assume that people familair with the EA axle routine have figured out the cone washer dance after being here a while. The OP states he is unfamilair so I thought it prudent to point it out. You have that NAPA part number? GD

Not a bad price. I pay about $63 each locally for comparison. Too high. Just buy the parts online and bolt it on yourself. You don't need the cat. If it has an 02 you still use it. The 02 has nothing to do with the cat. Picasa works well for me. GD

Cleaning them up is not sufficient. If you really look at how they work - any loss of material on the OD of the cone washer will prevent them from properly gripping the axle shaft as they are designed to do once forced into the matching cone of the hub. ANY damage is cause for replacement and that is the ONLY acceptable course IMO. That totally sucks man. Must be your suppliers down there. I get almost all my axles from Discount Import Parts - a local supplier that carries EMPI and OPParts axles. I have not had any issues with either. I beleive that both of them get their joint components from GCK in China. GD

Hhhmmmm - maybe I'll try this on my lifted Hatch. We have that Legacy MC that Jacob used on his Brat for a short time.... but his brakes didn't work right before or after that was on it. Might be worth a second look. I can see both veiwpoints - pressure at the pedal would have to increase to get the same force but the numbers might not be as drastic as what Noah is using. The pedal movement decrease might be worth the additional pressure requirement. I like a stiff pedal myself. And with rear discs that don't take as much pressure..... maybe. Might try an EA82 turbo MC as well. GD

We never have figured out why his brakes aren't very strong. The same bleeding process that I've always used on EA81's doesn't work on his. Even after changing everything in the system (except the HH which doesn't leak and the soft lines) his brakes are still worse than my hatch with the exact same system. I've done brakes on many Brats including my old '85 that now belongs to another board member and I've never had this problem. All his calipers are new and he's on his second reman master cylinder. It's either the soft lines, or there's some problem with the hard lines that's holding air bubbles. GD

No - he likes the rump roast end coming around when he leans on the brakes real hard. It's going to have to have aftermarket proportioning valves with the new brake setup though. 200SX rear discs are going to be much too strong if we don't limit the pressure. GD

I remember a '96 Legacy that I had to replace the fuel pump pickup tube on and I got a pump assembly from the JY from another '96 thinking they would be identical - the one I was working on had the temp sensor and the one I got from the yard didn't. I swapped the sensor over and all was good. When I strip harnesses I account for every single wire and I can say that in most of them I've done there has been no fuel temp or pressure. I just did that 95 like a couple weeks ago and there's no wires for those on the ECU connector. I would conjecture that this may have been a mid-year adjustment in 96 sometime. Some have it but most don't seem to. 97+ definitely do have them. I've stripped enough of those harnesses to say that for sure. GD

I've done quite a few of each. Stripped probably a dozen or more of each style and personally installed or worked on at least half of those. I can strip either harness while watching TV and drinking beer OBD-II all the way for me. The Fuel temp sensor and Fuel pressure sensor aren't a problem for 95 and 96 (except CA cars) as they don't have them. Actually I recently had the pleasure of stripping a '95 OBD-II 5 speed harness and of all the ones I've ever done I liked it the best. Finding the diagrams for it wasn't hard (have them in digital form if anyone needs them) and it had a much less messy harness. I would love to find more of these :-p. GD

What was the condition of the cone washer and hub mating surfaces? Being that you haven't dealt with one of these before, and the rareity of mechanical shaft locking devices in automotive applications I would put a high probability of the cone washer being damged (most on the road are) and of you overlooking the mechanical principles of the cone washer, and how to properly inspect and install it. ASE certified or not - you don't often see shaft locking systems of that type in automotive applications. They are used extensively in industrial machines but not on cars. I would say that 99 times out of 100 when people think an axle is "bad out of the box" it's really the cone washer. I've installed hundreds of these EA axles and I've seen VERY few that were bad out of the box. Can't think of a single example where it was clearly a bad reman. Not that it doesn't happen and NAPA parts *are* complete garbage, but it's rare. GD

Ceiling height was my limitation also. I'm going to move to a commercial space in the next couple years - so this will be a secondary lift. It's designed for a pit like at Jiffy Lube type places but leaves all the drivetrain components clear - wheels up and center of the car completely open. Makes tranny installs a breeze. 30" height is just right for my normal garage height ceilings. I can get a full sized mini-van all the way to the full lift extension. I can see how an "overhead" lift would be helpful *sometimes* but who really wants to lift their arms over their head all the time? And lifting a transmission that high for installation? Seems like even if I had an overhead lift I would still keep the car down low a lot of the time so I could roll around on my creeper. GD

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=129520 GD

I always replace them. They are usually pretty flat. If I had to reuse them I would apply some 518/anearobic sealant to the old one. They aren't typically the source of the leak so I beleive it if the dealer says they don't replace them. GD

Interested in fenders for sure! Nice work.... GD

It's been tried - I assume you mean for the EA82T since that's the one with the HG problems. The rest do fine with composite. The few people that have tried it have said it's a pain in the rump roast. External leakage I think was the biggest complaint. And not anymore reliable. If you want one to hold a HG all you have to do is o-ring the block and put in ARP studs. GD

The entire lower gasket set is for an EJ. Oil pan, front/rear mains, block o-rings, water pump, and especially that (paper ) oil pump gasket.... Upper kit of an EA82 and lower kit for an EJ22. The really sad part is that Subaru doesn't use gaskets for anything but the water pump on the EJ's and those are ribbed metal. I don't use any of them except the o-rings. Entirely superfluous. GD

Whoa! Does anyone else see a major problem here? GD

Pack the axle joints with grease. They are dry and are binding from friction and heat. GD

Exactly. Sure - better housings designed for HID's would do a better job of using the light. But as long as the cut-off is sharp and they are properly aimed they will not be dangerous in any way. That's why I elected to go with clear housings with diamond-cut reflectors. Better cut-off and no refractors at the lense to throw the light all over the place. I didn't just throw this idea together. I did my research and made my purchases carefully. The HID kits and bulbs I'm installing are the same one's I used on one of my customer's Acura's. His factory HID balast went out and they wanted $350 for a replacement. For $70 I got BOTH balasts and new bulbs. Just needed a little fab work to install them. Even with my labor he saved money and they are working great for him. I got the same kits but for half price on black friday. I figured - if they don't do what I want I'm only out $35. I want the H4 housings anyway. GD

Not a fan personally. I use Anaerobic as an RTV replacement on just about everything. It's much easier to work with and doesn't cure on the shelf. GD

That's simply not true in all cases anymore. There are TONS of reputable companies that have setup factories in China to make quality goods because of the cheap labor. They bring in experts from highly industrialized countries as well as equipment for both production and quality testing. The Chinese people and government aren't stupid and they are more than capable of finding the flaws in their products and fixing them. The same was said of Japan and then more recently Taiwan and Korea. All of which are making very high quality, name brand goods that you probably aren't even aware are being made there. The same is true for China. If you don't change with the times and open your mind to new ideas and new ways to do things then you'll be left in the dust by the rest of us. Sure we may not make a lot of inexpensive consumer goods here anymore but really - who wants those factory wage-slave jobs anyway? GD

Someone replaced the factory RTV sealant with a gasket which is a really stupid move. Clean it up and reseal it with RTV or Anaerobic. GD

That's the first step! Engine hoist was one of my first purchases - kept it at my parents place when I was renting a room from some friends - worked in the driveway with it. I just got this about 2 months ago: Reminds me of how useful the hoist was when I first got that. Now when I install an engine - instead of climbing over the hoist legs to knock out the bottle jack supporting the transmission I just hit the lift and raise the car body up - dropping the engine and tranny down into the cross-member. :-p GD

The FPCU runs the pump for 1.5 seconds at key-on. Then waits for a tach signal. GD