GeneralDisorder

Custom driveline, transmission mount, and inner axle cups for a cable-clutch transmission. A lot more work for a hydro. Depends on the tranny you use. Just a matter of changing the rear diff. 3.9 - the lower 3rd and 4th gear are in the transmission not the final drive. 95 or 96 Legacy with a 2.2 and a 5 speed. 90 to 94 Legacy also works but the OBD-I wiring is less desireable. Depends on what you pay for the donor car. Probably could get away with it if you are shrewd with your money and patient about aquiring parts. GD

There is no risk of either one of those off-road. Which is what I will do with them if I get a "fix it" ticket or complaints about their brightness. I want to try them and see for myself. I will have the car driven toward me on a two-lane road while I sit in my car in the oncoming lane to see how bright they are. I'm not going to be stupid about it. The "internet" has a lot of mis-information and so-called "experts" who's only "expertise" is how to hold down an arm-chair. Forums (even this one) tell me I "cant" do stuff all the time - cant rebuild Subaru transmissions, cant replace pressed-in wheel bearings, etc. Bunch of sniveling, arm-chair mechanics that spout this "conventional wisdom" because they are too lazy to find out if it's really impossible or just BS. GD

"Lots and lots and lots and lots" of reasons? That's just one site and their opinion is well spoken. But frankly not all of us care to listen and prefer to give it a try for ourselves. The conversion housings I got will also fit regular H4 halogen bulbs and if I determine that my $35 HID kit was a waste of money or dangerous then that's what I'll install. Then I'll move the HID system over to the high-beam application where I will only use it to blind people or for off-road lighting. I got the housings for the myriad of options that H4 capable housings offer and because they are acrylic and will not be cracked and chipped by rocks. I'm going to *try* the HID's because they were cheap and if nothing else they will make great off-road toys. I think it's worth noting that I can find plenty more reasons TO do it than NOT to do it. It really depends on what you want them for and having a fall-back plan if they turn out to be a liability for low-beam daily driving. They are still powerful lights and they were REALLY cheap - I will use them for something. GD

Nope - each year has it's own FSM's and many critical things like wire colors and component placement changed almost yearly. I personally have 80, 81, 83, 84, 85, and the 84 DL/GL and 85-89 Brat/Hatch wiring diagram and troubleshooting supplements (not a big EA82 fan as you can see ). As well as many Legacy, Impreza, Forester, and some EA stuff in digital format's as well. And there's many sites with great scans of the EJ series stuff. The stuff that's lacking in digital format is the earlier EA stuff like the EA81's and early EA82's. The SPFI system (86 to 94 and what's covered in your 90 FSM there) is well represented by PDF's ect and the rest of the neccesary info can be gleaned by careful reading of the Haynes diagrams, etc. It's not ideal but for the rudimentary stuff like the accesory circuits, etc it's usually sufficient. GD

Unless I hit a snag with some rusty bolt or the lower ball joint pinch, etc - 20 minutes tops. On EA's I usually take the inner control arm bolt loose instead of the BJ - but EJ's it's usually the BJ. GD

Your problem is clearly the cone washer and hub mating surfaces. Your cone washer is toast and that's what's causing the nut to loosen. Whoever did your axle and bearings needs to go back to school for wrenching. GD

No you aren't understanding - 10000k is NOT bright. It has 2/3 less lumens than a 5000k bulb and is VERY bluish-purple looking. Would look silly and not be effective for best light output. The best light output for HID bulbs is acheived at 5000k color temp. Also that's a crappy deal. The conversion housings I bought were $54 shipped and the HID kit with 5000k bulbs (or your choice of whatever temp you like) was black-friday sale priced at $35 shipped from HIDextra.com. Regular price is $70 shipped and you can find a 5% discount code on just about every Honda forum on the web... making those two purchases less than that ebay listing AND you get to choose your color temp and deal with a couple of very reputable site's. Also - that listing is for low-beam replacement on a quad-light 83+ Brat. So unless your '82 has been converted to quad lamps those housings won't fit. Only 2WD's got the quad-lamps in '82. And (still more gripes!) - they claim these have glass lenses - which means they are almost certainly steel backed housings. Which is a BIG problem on a Subaru that uses a ground switched lighting system. The housings will ground and cause the lights to always be on.... though that may not be a problem with the HID bulbs because they are plastic. But it will be a problem if you ever want to run standard H4's. The one's I got from automotivelightingusa.com are 100% acrylic and can't cause a grounding issue - just like the stock sealed beams which are 100% glass. GD

For a Loyale - which is fuel injected and doesn't really have many vacuum lines in the first place. If you are looking for anything other than specifically 1990 Loyale hose diagrams then these may be close but may be WAY off. GD

Sure he could - but he asked about an XT6 flywheel - so that's the answer I gave him. :-p I assumed he was talking about the one Turbone has for sale in the marketplace.... GD

I certianly wouldn't do 10,000k - that's basically purple and won't give very good light. Also would attract cops like crazy. 5000k is the brightest in lumens and is nice and white. That's what I am doing on my hatch. I got my kits from HIDextra.com and my sealed beam conversion lamps from automotivelightingusa.com Haven't installed them yet but I expect good things. GD

Might just un-piggy back it and try it that way. May give it just enough variation to not throw the post-cat fuel trim code. GD

The 3 thou of axle OD difference wouldn't do it. With the hub in place and the nut torqued the inner races of the bearings as well as the center spacer are compressed together to create a bearing preload situation - if there is still play in the wheel at that point then the bearings are toast or there's a problem with the cone washer and hub fitment. But since I'm sure you are versed in the cone washer and hub fitment routine.... probably shot bearings. The bearings are worn and thus the stock preload (center spacer) is not small enough to load up the inner races to the balls and tighten things down. Subaru designed these hubs for 7207 axial thrust spindle bearings but used 6207's cause they are cheap :cool:. The shaking you feel could be the DOJ. Usually that's a sign they are dry of grease or the grease has gone bad. When you take it apart and move the grease around in the DOJ by messing with the axle.... lubes up the joint and the DOJ stops binding under load. I say replace the bearings and regrease/reboot the axle. GD

Probably just lifters. Rod knock is a very violent sound and it changes pitch and frequency seemingly all by itself. Ticking is lifters - almost certainly. GD

Oh right - the EA82 is a 5 speed.... being a 2WD it will use a 200mm clutch assortment.... you could use an XT6 flywheel and pressure plate but you would need to use a 225mm disc for an 83/84 4 speed 4WD as well as the TOB holder for the 4 speed and the TOB from an 80's nissan 720 pickup truck.... should work but it will be a strange combo that you'll have to peice together as no one makes a kit with that drunken assortment in it . GD

An 89 would be SPFI and YES the EA81 can be made to work with it. GD

Yes. Mechanically speaking all you need is the adaptor plate and to modify the bolt pattern on your EA flex-plate to bolt up to the EJ crank. The engine will drop right in and sit there as if it were designed to do so. Cooling system modifications will be needed - some fiddling with radiator hoses and it's a huge benefit to have 1.5" inlet/outlet soldered into the EA radiator tanks. Fans have to go in front of the radiator to make room for the larger engine. Power steering lines just bolt up, etc. GD

I always just beat the hub out with a large impact socket and a 4lb drilling hammer from the back side. If it's really stuck in there you might have to pull the knuckle and press it out. I've had similar problems with axles rusted to hub splines, etc. Needed serious heat and a press. Destroyed the hub, knuckle (probably distorted from the heat), and wheel bearings but we saved the axle . Sometimes sacrifices have to be made. Hard to find good OEM axles with intact boots at the junk yards here - easy to find used knuckles with good bearings (this was a front wheel). GD

Going to be a chore to find the right gas tank. That was a 4WD hatchback ONLY tank. Larger bodied EA81's (all of them) don't have tank's that will fit the hatch body due to it's much shorter length. Could always go with a fuel-cell. Not a cheap solution though. GD

Sure: http://www.harborfreight.com/fwd-front-wheel-bearing-adapters-66829.html It works fabulously. The only thing it can't do is remove the outer bearing cone from the hub. But that's easily accomplished with a bearing splitter and a bit of ingenuity. Such as this one: http://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-separator-and-puller-set-93980.html And remember - you can buy these and return them within 30 days. Harbor Freight is really good about that. I use mine all the time and they have more than paid for themselves. I also have to say that Harbor Frieght has really excellent customer service. I recently called to order a new lead screw and replacement washers for my FWD bearing set and the cost was $14 shipped for two lead screws and six washers (ordered extra for future wear and tear). Being a professional mechanic I have a business account with a local supplier - unfortunately that probably won't help you. I would find the part number and google it - probably find them on Amazon or rockauto, etc. No - most of the failed bearings are not dry inside. They are usually just chewed up and loose. Sometimes the bearing cone's will spin on the hub and eat material off it. Then you have to go searching for a used hub. I've done tons of these bearings - never taken a knuckle off the car for it unless it was already off for another reason (usually front knuckles), and the whole job takes about an hour. $34 for a bearing, and $12 for all the seals typically. I've got a customer with 89k on one of the first bearings I did with this tool set. Still going strong. He just blew a driveline u-joint the other day and I had it on the lift - I checked out that bearing just for kicks and it's still tight like the day I installed it. GD

Yeah there is no bolt-up between EA and EJ chassis. Everything requires modification. The EJ could be put in the Loyale but I dare say it's not worth the effort on a 2WD body. What hangs up most people is the wiring. If you aren't good with wireing and electrical then what you will end up with is a nightmare that will be anything but reliable. If I were you - I would pull the EA82 and reseal it properly - get your gaskets from the dealer and replace applicable one's like the oil pan with something like Anearobic or RTV. You CAN make them leak free long-term. I've done it for people before. GD

The seals on the hub CREATE a sealed cavity. If you pack it full of grease then you have the same problem. For all intents and purposes the bearing IS sealed inside the knuckle. GD

I replace rear bearings (yes Forester's too) using the FWD service set from Harbor Freight ($89 or so) - never remove the knuckle. I've done dozens of them. I have yet to have a repeat failure. I use NTN bearings ($34) and the grease that comes with them. New seals too of course. GD

Larger side of the oval goes to the secondary. Doesn't really matter much though. You can grind and file them to fit the ports better but the performance is really not affected either way. GD

Definitely not. An EJ swap is not what I would consider a good place to start if you don't know much about cars. And even if you do - if you don't know anything about wiring then this is not the answer for you. Best bet is to sell it and buy a Legacy. GD

VERY IMPORTANT! NEVER pack a sealed bearing completely full of grease. It has nowhere to go and WILL overheat. Grease is NOT what does the lubrication - the grease "drops" and turns to an oil that does the actual lubrication and protection. If further heating is allowed to continue the oil will cook just like you left it on a hot skillet over a stove. The NTN bearings that I install on a regular basis for the EJ's come pre-greased. That's all you need! If you want to replace the grease - pack ONLY the bearing cones and put a thin smear on all other bearing surfaces. Over-packing is second most common cause of bearing failure after grease contamination. I have replacement EJ wheel bearings going on nearly 100k miles of trouble-free operation using only the grease that was provided by NTN in them. GD