GeneralDisorder

If you can't do wiring - you will be money-ahead by paying someone to do it for you. I charge $250 for OBD-I harnesses and $200 for OBD-II harnesses (manual transmission - automatic's are more). Trust me - it's hard enough for those of us that have done dozens of them. Takes me roughly 6 to 8 hours to prepare a harness for installation and then half the people I do prepare them for are still over their heads even with the harness fully stripped and labeled. 50% of the local guys that buy my harness stripping service subsequently have the car towed to my shop for final fitting. That's the reality of EJ swaps that I see day-in and day-out. No sugar coating. If you still want to strip the harness yourself I say go for it! But beware that if you get half way through and want one of the guys here like me to finish it for you - most of us won't touch a harness that's been half disected by an amature. It's too much risk to take on that job. I get myself into enough problems taking on people's half-finished swaps and trying to judge a price-point they can live with up-front. I'm usually mistaken with my prices and a few of them have nearly doubled with other problems showing up after the engine is running. Bad fuel pumps, blown PS lines, bad timing components - I see it all . GD

It might be similar to the 85/86 non-turbo XT but I really can't say since I've never even seen an XT that old. In '87 they went to the hot-wire type MAF's on all the MPFI and SPFI variants and those also definately have multi-rib style belts and other differences. So - if it's similar to any of the XT's it's only the '85 and maybe the '86. On the GL's it only came on high-end 2WD's in '85. In '86 they switched to the (new for '86) SPFI system and then in '87 they began phasing out the carbs completely. GD

Well - there is also the possibility that it's a freeze plug, or that an intake manifold gasket has gone out.... Non-turbo HG failures at that low of a mileage figure are extremely rare but depending on how it was driven..... There are two school's of thought and they largely are determined by the facilities that people have at their disposal. Those of us with shop's capable of easily pulling engines are almost exclusively of the opinion that the added time to pull and replace the engine is offset largely by the time and frustration saved in doing so for a lasting, quality repair. People working in the parking lot of their apartment complex have succesfully done HG jobs (without pulling the engine) as well - but chances are that it took them a lot longer than it takes me including pulling the engine - which frankly only adds about 3 hours to the job total. You get some of that back in the dissasembly and reassemble steps because they go faster... so I would say that all-in-all pulling the engine adds 2 hours to the job but that's not significant when you consider the much higher quality of the job and not having to bend over an engine bay. Sadly you can't get much for the car - maybe $500 in it's current broken state. If it didn't have such low mileage and wasn't in cosmetically superior condition I would say no more than $300 to $350..... if it were 4WD with that kind of mileage probably more like $800. Repaired it could be worth as much as $2000 if it's really nice.... to the right buyer of course. That is a very rare engine - one year only - and hard to find parts for. The question is.... how much damage has been done by the milkshake? If it's just a reseal that it needs or a freeze plug, etc then it could be a pretty easy fix. I would say - pull the heads and oil pan off and look for any signs of cylinder damage or bottom end damage. If the milkshake pours out clean and the inside of the oil pan isn't full of metal/sludge and the cylinders look good then fix it. Otherwise you'll be looking for a replacement short-block. To answer your message to me - yes I could handle the reseal or installation of a short block, etc. A HG job with all the trimmings will be about $320 in labor. Parts will likely be about another $300 give or take. Figure on replacing the timing belt and water pump, and all seals from the HG's up. Probably some hoses and belts also. I'm sure it could easily get back on the road for about $600 or so. If it needs a short block it would be the same price but add in the cost of a good used short-block. GD

You will need to start with a turbo engine then. The Legacy 2.2 is not going to handle a bolt-on turbo. You need a 22T, a 20T or a 25T. The 22E will only handle about 5 psi of boost and that build hasn't proven very reliable. At 5 psi they make about 200 HP but they aren't as reliable as the 2.5 high compression NA build so people have largely stopped doing that in favor of the better build. 250 is also about the limit of the non-turbo transmissions as well. Plus they have crap for gear ratio's so you will want to go to a turbo transmission for handling the power and torque and for the more favorable gearing. GD

The plate is simple and cheap compared to buying long bolts and building blocks for the mustache bar. I've bent M bar's before and had to reinforce them.... keeping the thing up out of the way and close to the body protects it and prevents you from ripping the capture nuts out of the body that hold it on. GD

You should be able to wire any of them to work - assuming what you have in your hand is some form of Fuel Pump Control Unit (FPCU we call them). Even the blue one's will work - they just don't control the choke IIRC (from EA81's with feedback carbs). All of them accept switched power, ground, constant power, tach signal, fuel pump power (out), and some do the choke power also. The EA81 FPCU's from cars with normal (non feedback) carbs should also be black and work basically the same. A friend of mine used one of the blue one's for an electric fuel pump conversion on his Suzuki Samurai. They are typically quite reliable unless they get wet inside from a leaky windsheild, etc. GD

Because you have a button for 4WD we can safely assume you have a Part Time 4WD transmission not an AWD (Full Time 4WD) transmission. Those are junk and are hard to find replacement's for. If you can drive a stick it would be easiest to replace it with one of those. They are more available. But you will probably not find many shops willing to do the work to convert it because it's a custom conversion. You will need an 88 or 89 5 speed dual range transmission so it will have the neutral switch you need for the fuel injection computer. You will also need the pedal assembly, new clutch and clutch cable, flywheel, driveline, and matching rear differential if your existing one is not a 3.9 (it may be). This is something that can and has been done - it's not that hard but it does require someone that is familar with Subaru's and has done this kind of a project before - there will be wiring involved as you will have to bypass the inhibitor switch on the automatic shifter assembly that prevents you from starting while in gear.... I've done this exact swap a couple times now for folks with dead 3AT's. If you are willing to bring the car down to Portland I think I have the right transmission and most of the other parts needed with the exception of the new clutch/cable and driveline. But those could be sourced easily from the local yards. You are looking at about $320 labor plus parts. Probably around $600 to $700 total I would assume to get it properly converted and ready to drive. I could also arrange to come to get the car for about $80 plus gas - about $160 total for me to tow a GL back to my shop from the Seattle area. GD

90 through 95 2.2's have the slot in the passenger side cam to run a distributor. '96 and up do not as they have roller rocker cams and no slot was provided. You could change out the cam and rockers for 90 to 95 units and it would work fine. Or possibly have the slot milled into the back of the existing cam.... it could be done but I would just find a cam with one already. You could also wire up the MPFI - just get a harness and computer from another 95 to 98 2.2 or 2.5 and that will run it. GD

Contact renob123 - he has all the links from various forums for building it - they are popular for jeeps and toyotas and such. He knows how to do it with some resistors and a pot apparently. I haven't started in on that part of the swap yet so all I know is that he researched it and it should work . GD

You can't hit those HP numbers with a non-turbo Subaru 4 cylinder engine. 190 is about the highest anyone has seen from the frankenmotor (search - the recipe is well documented). If you want 250 HP from an NA then you will have to go with a high compression H6 or an H6 from a newer 3.6 car, etc. The SVX was a bit less than 240 HP so it's close. With a compression boost it could easily hit 250. They won't easily fit into the first-gen body.... or a second gen body for that matter. They are all DOHC engines. 250 is easily possible with a turbo. The only one that's an easy fit is the EJ22T and they were only 165 from the factory so modification is required. Mileage has nothing to do with the integrity of the body. Without a cage the body flex will be very pronounced. The 190 HP engine in the '85 we built has flexed the body terribly and the doors don't even close right anymore - it is a rust free example also. The body of the Brat is not very ridgid to begin with by modern standards - when I put Brat's on my lift they sag on either end and the doors are harder to open and close. I would say that at the power levels you desire a cage will be a mandatory consideration to beef up the structure of the car. Tie-in's to both front and rear strut/shock towers, the four corners of the cab floor, and the pillars for starters. GD

I've been too busy to do anything with the document lately. Work and Holidays, etc. What do you want to know? You can always PM me.... most of the stuff is in my head. GD

Those are real nice if you own an Impreza but they won't fit the GL shift linkage. Much easier and cheaper to make your own. If you don't have the equipment then pay someone that does - still be cheaper than buying stuff off that site. GD

The problem with a plug is that it would have to have the proper flange to seal against the tubing flange inside the spacer under the head. The threads don't do the sealing - it's the flared end of the tube *below* the threads that seals it. Such a specialized thing as a metric, flared tube male plug fitting is not likely to be sourced from any of the suppliers I am familair with. If you want something resembling a plug you will have to cut the last 1/2" off the tube - leaving the flare intact - and then weld the threaded fitting solid on the top using a washer, etc as a filler. Then grind it smooth.... I've done that before but it's a lot more work than just hammering the pipe flat and getting on with your life. I mean - it's hidden under the engine so does it really matter that much? GD

It's an '85 with a high-comp. 2.5 and a '96 JDM, STi close-ratio 5MT with front helical LSD and rear clutch-type LSD. We didn't want the wider offset of the Legacy suspension so it's getting a 5 lug swap using a hybrid of EA81, Legacy, and XT6 parts. It has an EA81T PS rack that will be driven from a cybid XT6 PS pump with a dash control for PS pump speed. GD

Yeah - has to be pretty perfect. Even a single tooth off will run poorly. More than three teeth off and it won't likely run at all. GD

Sounds like the valve timing is off. Double check your timing belt alignment. GD

Run a single wire to the oil pressure switch - plumbed into where the sending unit threads into the oil pump. Attach the wire to one side of the switch and attach the other side of the switch to a good ground (anything nearby that's metal). At the rev sensor plug - take your incoming 12v hot lead and run that to both the coil and contact side of a 30A relay. Use the wire coming from the pressure switch for the coil ground. On the other side of the relay contact attach your fuel pump power wire and choke power wire. When the oil pressure trips the switch, it will complete the ground to the relay coil and power both the fuel pump and the choke. GD

We have never taken any video. That will change in the new year as the Brat is being entered in stage rally racing. We are currently building a complete FIA approved roll cage and harnesses, 5-lug conversion, cybrid power steering, removing the t-tops, and generally bringing it up to Rally America regulations. Then it's getting a cosmetic overhaul so it doesn't look like an old beater. We will have a camera mounted for race events. That's in the plans also. Sometime around March I think is the start of the season..... GD

Depends on condition but generally that's about the case. The one I sold from my SS a few years ago that was totally trashed inside I still got an even trade for a TD05-16G with 90* inlet.... which is at least a $300 turbo. I don't know if the guy ever saved that block but he was going to try. I doubt it but who know..... GD

2.5 with 2.2 heads is the same size as a 2.2. High compression - search for "frankenmotor". GD

Sure - but time and labor to dissasemble it and sell it for those top-dollar parts prices have to be considered as well. And I would and did argue that if it cannot be shown to run then any wise buyer MUST assume the worst and consider the drivetrain to be completely shot. ALL you can consider at that point is the cosmetic condition of the vehicle. And a '93 SS in cosmetically perfect condition without it's drivetrain is worth about $500 or less in sheet metal and interior bits. My personal SS was bought with "bad head gaskets" and was unable to be started and run for the buyer (not me). He paid $1500 for it and only after pulling the engine did he find that it was a complete boat anchor. It had been ran till it seized and the pan was 1/2" deep with sludge and metal shavings. The block couldn't be saved - melted out a section of a piston liner. Total loss. If the seller wants more than scrap prices for the car then the burden of proof on the condition of the drivetrain is in his court. Or he has to find a sucker - which is not that hard actually! It just aint gonna be me . GD

Yeah - Subaru uses a lot of ground controlled circuits. Makes them more robust because the power flows through a shorter path typically and thus a short will, more often than not, occur on a ground side and cause the accesory to run all the time instead of blowing a fuse. GD

It's not as spectacular as you might think. Yeah it's definately faster - but I didn't think "WOW - that's FAST!" when I've driven any of the EJ22 swapped rigs I've built. Now - the frankenmotor in place of the EJ22 - that is something else entirely! 180 to 190 HP in the Brat body is damn quick. The one my friend has that we built together will walk away from a 2.0 WRX. Remember that the EJ22 is a grocery getter engine from a station wagon. It's got power but the power is quite tame still and the cam is toned down for a daily driver. Put in a torque cam, increase compression and displacement and it turns into a real race engine that delivers on all your expectations. But an EJ22 in stock form is just not that big of a deal. You'll be able to pass in 5th and not have to down-shift on hills - but don't expect it to feel like a race car. It's just a lightweight Legacy and that's how it's going to drive. GD

81 GL's 82 through 87 - all. GD

Yes - the relay you are looking for has a white connector and on the contact side (larger wires) it will have a blue w/red and a green w/white. That is the blower motor relay. GD