GeneralDisorder

Boring should be uneccesary and if it needs it the engine is basically junk for a couple different reasons - first because the EA82's are worth about $100 in running condition, second because proper boring does require a bore plate and proper fixure. If it's not done correctly the cylinder liners can shift after the engine is assembled and run, and third because 99% of the time the block doesn't even need boring and will run fine with a deglazing. Thus a block that needs boring is a boat anchor beacuse the next 99 you tear down won't require that step at all. That said - it's not really ever worth rebuilding an EA82 at this time. They are underpowered and cheap. For the price of a rebuild you can easily score three good running used engines. Any engine that can be had used with a warantee for under $500 is not worth rebuilding. Money losing proposition. A proper rebuild will be more and likely will not acheive as good of results as a factory engine that's in good running order. If you *must* have a price for a Subaru engine bore job - it's about $200 (50 per cylinder). My machinist does EJ's all the time and that's what he charges. Might be more for the EA82 because it's an oddball and he never sees them. GD

Well - one thing I've learned about axles - the only dimentions that matter for the aftermarket axle manufacturers are the spline counts of the cup's, overall length, etc. Therefore you can't judge the axle as being unsuitable based on the joint diameter - since many joint diameters are possible and indeed Subaru even used different sized joints on 2WD vs. 4WD though the complete axle assemblies are 100% interchangeable. This is also true of the EJ cars - many of the stock axles have smaller joints than the EMPI axles - which use tripod style joints instead of rzeppa 6-ball style joints internally. This results in different cup dimentions. Based on the part number I believe you have the correct axles. I have a set of the very same axles on my hatch and also Jacob has a set on his 85 Brat - though that set has 25 spline inner's stolen from EMPI Impreza axles.... I don't recall an issue with the steering shaft but.... It's very possible that either or both of us encountered this problem but don't remember because having access to my shop it wasn't a huge deal to correct and has slipped my mind :-\.... a few ideas: You may have to unbolt the steering u-joint from the rag-joint/rack to get the joint to slide on. You could also lower the transmission mount to gain some needed space or possibly just pry-bar the tranny toward the passenger side while sliding the joint over the splines. If you unbolt the rag-joint - EMPI makes urethane rag-joints for VW's that are exactly the same dimensions as the Subaru rag joints. Pretty cool upgrade for the $10 or less that they cost. Beer - sure I drink that . Rolling Rock is typically my go-to. GD

What are the part numbers of your EMPI axles? You might have EA82 axles - wouldn't be the first time someone got the wrong one's. You might also have steering rack bushing issues.... the rack shouldn't be at an angle where it's that close to the DOJ cup. GD

I don't like the "pipe trick" either. I'm actually building a press adaptor to dissasemble them right now. Should be testing it on some EMPI axles tomorrow. Need to put EJ outers on some EA81 shafts.... GD

Yep - pretty much identical to any other Subaru. Except you won't have to drop the exhaust since it doesn't go below the x-member. GD

Trying to clean up my pictures and hosting.... here's the pics for this thread: GD

You need the spacer behind to pulley to be 9mm so just the top edge of the Maxima shaft below the threads is exposed (in order to center the pulley - the threads are too small to properly locate the pulley to center). I just chuck them up in my lathe and turn then down till I hit 9mm with a caliper. Doesn't have to be super accurate (dealing with v-belts here - kind of the drive system equivelent of the boad side of a barn ) but it's nice if the spacer is evenly ground/cut to 9mm or else the pulley will wobble when it's running. Doesn't look real professional that way so when I build them for folks I'm largely paying attention to the thickness being even around the entire circumference more than I am about the actual measurement - anything between about 8.75 and 9.25mm is fine. GD

I would simply replace it. For the work to get at it (jack engine out of cradle and then fight the factory RTV to get the pan off...) you are money ahead by just replacing it while you are in there. The job isn't bad but getting the pan off the first time around is not fun. You will likely bend the lip on the pan and have to straighten it before installation. GD

I'll take 2 of the XXL variety. Or XL if they run large with the shirts you use. I run XL in Carhartt but other brands tend to cheap out on the materials these days . GD

Oil feed return line banjo bolt screen - they came out with an upgraded bolt that replaced the one with the screen in it (same bolt but no screen ) around the time frame of that car. If it hasn't had regular oil changes and synthetic all it's life - walk away. Turbo's NEED synthetic for a long, happy life. If it's just been run with cheap stuff and/or neglected oil changes - it's not likely to make 150k without at least a new turbo and possibly more severe problems. That's also the same time-frme of the cracking oil pickup tubes. Mostly that's on STi's but it's something to be aware of because I beleive it also affects the 255's from time to time. Did an '06 STi not long ago and the owner opted to replace the pickup with a Killer-B motorsports reinforced version on general principle at 90k (did the 105k service a little early) - good thing he opted to replace the pickup tube since it was already cracked about 1/3 of the way around at the flange where it bolts to the block. Crappy design. Most people find out about a cracked pickup tube by completely losing oil pressure and destroying the block. GD

Find a member in your area with a lifted rig and arrange to go look at it. Much easier than trying to describe how to lift one to someone that isn't even familair with how they are constructed in the first place. You keep asking questions that clearly show you arent even bothering to go look at how the car is put together. One thing is always true of those of us with sucessful lifted Subaru's - we don't ask a lot of questions till we have educated ourselves as much as possible using the search function and going out to the garage and inspecting/measuring. You aren't going to get anything lifted with a keyboard and mouse - we are 4 pages into this post and it's clear you haven't even looked at your car in detail. What's wrong with this picture? Go out to your garage and start tinkering. At the very least crawl under the car and visualize what things have to be dropped along with the engine to raise the body up but keep all your drivetrain geometry intact. This board is here to "help people help themselves". The best advice I can give you is to GET OFF the computer and pick up a measureing tape/welder/ratchet/etc. DO IT. It's been discussed to death. GD

Yes! My hatch needs the remote shifter! I have my finger on the paypal..... :-p GD

Extend the rod by cutting it and welding in a section of round stock or pipe that will just slip over the rod. GD

Funny thing I just noticed today - the Maxima alts that we put in the EA's use the same plug as the 95 to 99 EJ alt. So if you can find an alternator plug for either it will work for your swap . BTW - I'm totally doing this swap on my SS. It makes WAY more sense than buying the round-plug alts at twice the price. GD

I've had Delta grind EA81 cams and there is no evidence they pulled the gear off. None that I could detect anyway. GD

I wouldn't assume that it's a grounding issue either. When buying a car with a rare (VERY RARE) engine that doesn't run - assume it's completely shot. You would be looking at a miniumum of $2k to replace that engine. They are desireable and extreemly rare - more rare on your coast. GD

Axles should be fine - don't forget to buy new cone washers for your replacement hub and to replace the old one on the hub you have that's not stripped. That's what led to this failure in the first place. GD

I think - based on that diagram and some threads you linked to.... that the yellow wire is an ignition switched hot lead already - so it's actually supplying power to the alt's VR not being supplied by it. You can verify with a meter - unplug it and check for 12v at the yellow wire terminal in the plug with the key on. It should be hot already. Which means you can simply cut that wire and insulate it. The power to it also supplies other things for the MPFI so just leave it hot. Then connect white to white, black w/white to black w/white and you should be down the road. GD

There's a huge mess lately with parts listings for the EA81 225mm kits. Exedy doesn't even list one in their catalog anymore. On Rockauto they list 4 kits that are correct: RHINOPAC/WORLD CAR Part # 15003 BRUTE POWER Part # 92225 BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0619131 ACDELCO Part # 381613 You can also use the EA82 pressure plate if you resurface the flywheel to the .815" step height (down from .906") and use a TOB from an 80's Nissan 720 truck. But you will still need the 225mm EA81 disc - which is a 21 spline, 22mm shaft size. GD

I replace a lot of boots and I install a lot of axles - I've used the EMPI boots for years and not had a problem. I also use a lot of the OP-parts axles and I've had a few that had torn boots relatively quickly. I've changed my installation routine to insure I am very careful with the boots durring installation. They are VERY soft and just scraping the boot along a bolt-head will damage them. I didn't think anything of it when I noticed it but sure enough a few months went by and it ripped open in the same spot. This is a lot like the cone washer business - no one notices how bad they are till they have to fight with one that will never tighten down due to being worn out and it results in hub spline failure. GD

Don't worry about clamping the hoses down tight - they are thin but as long as they are round they will not collapse. Essentially they are round arch's and structurally you are evenly applying load to the arch.... it will take a LOT more pressure than you think it will. If it's an EA81 that you are talking about here - the fittings are part of a heater control valve assembly under the dash and could be replaced with some effort from below the dash. If it's an EA82 they are part of the heater core itself and can't be replaced seperately. GD

Get the wheel bearing seals at Discount - $6 each or so. Positive camber differences could be due to incorrect strut or spring parts having been used on one wheel.... that's the usual reason. Or something being bent. Ball joints are cheap - I would replace them. If you can move the joint around by hand - it's old. New one's are very stiff. I've never seen an adjustable leading rod and the picture you posted doesn't look adjustable to me either. The only alignment adjustment in the front of the EA82's is the toe adjustment. You could adjust camber with crash bolts at the lower control arm mount..... cheaper than strut plates. But I would be going for new struts/springs first. Bring the knuckles by after you clean them up and we can drift out the bearings and install the new one's. I have a custom tool for installing the bearings and you can bead-blast the knuckles and paint them before installing them. GD

No - due to the shorter wheelbase only a hatch tank will fit in a hatch body. They are several gallons smaller. GD

Are you *sure* you have fuel? Make sure you have power at the injectors and plug in the green test connectors - the fuel pump and radiator fan should cycle repeatedly with them connected and the ignition on. Make sure you put the timing belt on correctly and that the cam pullies are on the correct side. With EJ's - if you have spark your sensors are working but you may not have spark at the right time. That would be due to cam/crank misalignment which is typically the timing belt. GD

Boot failures immediately following replacement of the axle is *almost always* a result of damage durring installation. GD