GeneralDisorder

Technically the Tactrix can work all the way back to 99, but you need the definition files for the vehicle at hand in order to edit the ROM and those are not always available. Usually on 05+ cars you can find the file definition online somewhere. But the older the car the less likely you are to find one. ALSO - be VERY cautious with non turbo cars - the definition files aren't always as fully developed as they are for the WRX's, etc. It's literally someone's "best guess" with a hex editor as to what any given address in the ROM relates to. I've seen everything from the modifications doing nothing at all (seemingly) to making a single change to a check box for a code or for force readiness and having the car not even start and having to flash back to the old file. Knock on wood I've never bricked an ECU but I've come DAMN close to it. You can REALLY wreck your whole day with these tools. GD

Inferno Fabrications in St. Helens has done EA82T stuff for us in the past - needed an up-pipe for a customer several years ago and he made one up. GD

As carfreak explained - it's just not going to magically stop the heat from getting into the heads. Especially under sustained boost. It *might* show a gain in the delta time before saturation, but it's not going to affect the ultimate temperature. That's going to be down to combustion temps. If you want it to last, run it on E85. With the LINK you now have the ability to do that safely. You simply need the Ethanol content sensor and you can do a full flex fuel tune. E85 runs cooler, and is essentially impossible to cause damaging detonation. And if you REALLY want to ensure it never gets hot - run Meth injection or just tune it on straight Methanol. I've seen 1000 HP Methanol cars that you could touch the cylinder head after a full power dyno pull. GD

When you get a bunch of wheel slip the computers will often set wheel speed sensor codes. Happens literally every time we run cars up in the air on a lift. They will clear on their own when it doesn't see the fault for X number of drive cycles. GD

There is no adjustment for that. It would require reprogramming the ECU and pre-99 models are not even flash capable so it would need a custom EPROM written for it. It's really not going to hurt anything or cause any excessive wear. The EJ22 will easily go 300k. GD

Amsoil fuel stabilizer (good for 12 months) and periodically rotate the gas through my truck that has a 31 gallon tank. GD

Crazy stuff in TX. Hope everything works out for you. We just got over 7 days of no electricity here in Oregon. I was prepared with generators for our house and my parents house, but most of my neighbors were very cold for the last week. It was a good trial run of my preparedness. I now realize that I need two 55 gal drums of fuel for the generator and the truck. Never know when some crazy storm will come through. We had 1.25" of freezing rain. It was NUTS. Wrecked all the trees and power lines across the whole county. GD

There's no fluid pressure with the engine off so there should be no real issue with towing it a few miles. The clutches are free to spin since there's no pressure on any of the clutch pistons. GD

Unlikely. Anyone that's into EA81T's is probably not into EJ swaps - possibly doesn't even know they exist. Better off demonstrating that it runs and selling it to someone that needs one. The oil pump on the EA81T, if it's good, is worth more than the whole rest of the motor to the vast majority of the EA81 community. GD

Neither is really better than the other. The EA82T is newer and was made for longer so it will be significantly (which isn't saying much) easier to source parts for. I wouldn't attempt an EA81T without a good reason such as a restoration on a really nice Turbo Brat, etc. GD

Fel-Pro seems to work OK for the head gaskets. The rest of the gaskets they include are garbage and you need to get those from the dealer. GD

Or - you could PAY for the services they provide. Novel concept I know, but.... Does it have value to you? Remember - in general you get AT MOST exactly what you pay for. You aren't paying for my advice or opinion either, so take it for what it's worth. GD

Typical. You have to resurface the heads, clean the block surfaces really well, and use the 770 or 642 gaskets or the HG's will leak about 25k miles after replacement. It's not a matter of if they will leak, but when and how many times they need to be redone till someone does it the right way with 770's. GD

The window is the motor. They all do that. It will be rusted solid inside. If you have the right tools you can do it in about 20 minutes. But book time is like 2.8 hours or something silly. Can be done by brail with a LONG 90 degree #3 Philips bit driver. But per Subaru you have to pull the regulator. Don't bother with used or aftermarket - they ALL fail like that. I have done dozens and dozens of Forester window motors. They are $225 from Subaru. Cluster illumination - you turned up the dimmer right? GD

They are M6 bolts. You don't want to snap them off. 7 ft/lbs is about max for that size bolt. 4.6 seems perfectly reasonable. GD

We have had customers turn around and come immediately back after a head gasket replacement and complain that we "broke" their radio . Then we disconnect the battery, wait a few minutes, touch the terminals to each other to discharge caps, etc and like magic the radio works again. Then we have to explain to the customer how lucky they are that they will be getting a new stereo real soon and that it will only cost about $1000 with the JDM panel, a nice double DIN deck, and installation. GD

Most likely the control panel is developing cracked solder joints. Happens ALL the time on the 05 and 06 units. More prevalent in cold weather. Subaru had a reman program where you can send it in for repair. They are no longer available to purchase new (all have been sold due to control issues or radio malfunctions (also common). THE BEST solution, is to get the double DIN replacement JDM control panel so you can also have an aftermarket stereo. https://avojdm.com/dual-zone-av-panel-set-h6217ag911/ Try pressing on the dash, and also you can try power cycling with the battery terminals. We have seen quite a few of those have all kinds of random behavioral problems. GD

Need to watch your compression ratio. A 251 with 22E heads is well above 12:1 and is much too high even for premium fuel. EJ25D is between 9.5 and 10.5 depending on 96 or 97-99 pistons. You can use the 25D pistons in the 251 block but you still must use the thick 25D HG's. As for the 22E management running the 2.5. Yes it will run. No it will not be optimal. Closed loop will correct idle and cruise fueling. Timing will not be correct or optimal, neither will power enrichment or knock control (different bore size and sensor frequency). GD

You get the speed sensor and wiring connector from an 01 manual trans, screw that into the 98 trans, and wire it to the car. GD

Don't buy a turbo car for work. That's stupid. It's a sports car, not a Camry. Totally different vehicles. Do you need a sports car or a work car? That's the choice. And sounds like it should be an easy one. Subaru does make non-turbocharged cars that are much more targeted at the Camry market but with AWD if that's what you are looking for. But they no longer produce a V6, and neither does Honda so if you are looking for a reliable non turbo engine with V6 power, then the Camry is the ticket. And Toyota's tend to be more reliable than Subaru's anyway. Subaru's provide a niche product to enthusiasts looking for performance or off-road capability in a specific (small-ish) package. They aren't the ultimate in reliability and they don't suffer owners that neglect them. GD

Call Foreign Engines Inc. in Lynnwood WA. GD

Yep. That's about the size of the situation as regards 2WD models. Pretty much no love for them. They don't perform "Subaru" tasks so they kind of live in a no-mans land of un-loved 80's cars that no one is looking for. Like a Ford Granada. GD

The AP comes with maps that are already setup for the COBB SF intake. They also come with a map for the SF intake and the COBB downpipe. Those maps are pre-loaded on the AP and can be used as soon as you install it without custom tuning. They DO NOT have a map to delete the converter entirely - the COBB downpipe has a high-flow converter, as do most other good name brand downpipes. Other companies do sell downpipes without the converter (usually sold as a "test pipe" or off-road only pipe) but no shop will install them since it's a $10,000 fine if you get caught doing that. There is also basically ZERO benefit to removing the converter. The high flow converters included on performance downpipes are not restrictive. GD

If it's any kind of large job, it's usually cheaper to tow it to me than to pay the higher rates plus sales tax in Seattle. No sales tax down here so that can be a significant advantage. I have a lot of customers north of the border. GD

Probably about $2500 to the right buyer. It's a very hard sell being a 2WD. Subaru is known for 4WD and station wagons. The 2WD models - especially the non wagons get very little love. If it were a 4WD wagon it would be worth 3x as much. 5x if it were a Brat. You should just keep it in the family and let a grandkid take it over or something. It's worth more as reliable transportation than it is to a collector. GD