GeneralDisorder

You install the toothed idler SECOND to last (third if you count pulling the tensioner pin). You install in this order: Cam seals. Cam pulleys. Crank seal. Crank pulley. Upper smooth idler. Tensioner. Belt. Cogged idler. Lower smooth idler. Pull pin. Count to three. Release spoon and throw. Simple and easy every time. GD

Yeah - 5th is the last gear next to the big bearings at the back of the shafts. It's the only gear set (drive and driven) that can be replaced without replacing the others. GD

To answer your question - they are different clip designs. The older style like your '91 VLSD stub axle used to be very common on almost every front wheel drive half-shaft (holds the axle into the transmission) but there have been problems with axle rebuilders and with installers not getting the clip centered or spreading the clip open too much prior to inserting it into the transmission/diff. Having the clip as a permanent part of the transmission or diff makes that problem go away and all axles fit easily and don't hang up on poorly installed clips. It just takes a lot of variability out of the equation by having the clip on the female side. It also can't get lost that way. Those pictures are of an STi axle - which fits only the R180 rear diff. They are not at all applicable to most Subaru's. Incidentally - VLSD's have a lifespan of about 50k miles. They lose most of their effectiveness as LSD's after approximately that long. Their sealed viscous disc pack is not serviceable or rebuildable like the clutch types and when they are worn out they are basically open diffs for the purposes of driving. Yes they will still lock enough to turn the wheels the same direction with a simple test of turning them by hand. But in actual driving they really don't do much unless they are new. Used - they are mostly just expensive open diffs that give people bragging rights but don't actually do much of anything useful. My '91 SS has it's factory VLSD still in place. At 176k on the body - I can't even tell it has an LSD. GD

Just tap it in till it snaps into place. No tricks here. GD

Yeah - the final leakage rate determination will have to wait till the rings are broken in. The only way a push-rod can come out is if it's bent or there is MASSIVE play in the valve train (valve stuck open, etc). Check the make sure you don't have a sticky valve stem. GD

Interesting - I was thinking that perhaps the pickup tube had changed..... though I suppose that wouldn't matter on retrospect. The pickup tubes might be different though.... not neccesarily on depth but on which side has the brace... GD

Throw the pump away. It's garbage. Go to the dealer and get a new one. GD

Being negative when it's the right answer is just part of life. I type and post very fast so it's no real effort or time wasted. But you're right - I'll take my significant Subaru experience and keep it to myself with respect to your questions and you can bumble around in the dark with both your eyes closed. I have PLENTY of people around here that value my input and experience. You won't be missed. GD

You have made a habit of uneccesary posting (including at least one other about unused connectors and wireing in your engine bay) in your short time here. Furthermore you did not specify that it's an automatic and auto's in that year are pretty rare.... If you get judged based on the above criteria - it's your own fault. Now I'm not going to help. I'll take my wiring diagrams and go home. GD

If it's not an automatic transmission then it won't have a kick-down relay or the associated wireing. What exactly is your reasoning for being this anal about your wiring? What is it that you are trying to fix? There are LOTS of confusing connectors and wireing that is unused in any given vehicle setup. The harnesses and the fuse panels are designed to allow space for every conceivable option and different combinations of engines and transmissions. Asking about every one of them is pointless and time-intensive. If something is not working as it should then address that - stop trying to fix things that aren't broken..... If you give us a goal that you are trying to acheive here it will help us formulate answers. GD

You need to use the dip stick that matches the pan - IIRC the EJ25 pan's have an additional .5 quart capacity over the old flat-bottom pans. GD

The adaptor plate is not covering the coolant passage beneath the carb correctly. Either seal the passage with aluminium epoxy or JB weld, etc. Or properly seal the adaptor plate so it won't leak coolant. GD

They aren't that bad from the dealer - I ordered the one to the PCV valve on a Loyale not long ago and it was a little over $6. GD

There are different styles of cores for early and late EA82's. Get a heater core box from a loyale and you can use the later model core that is available. Or just take your ole one to a radiator shop and have it gone through for half the price. Best option by far. GD

So find a heater core box that will hold an aftermarket core or take your/an old one to a radiator shop and have it rodded and repaired. Shouldnt be more than $40 or so. This is just not that complicated. I've installed used cores - nothing wrong with the option. GD

Personally I use anaerobic on the pan. Love the stuff. GD

NAPA: NHC 6603271 Rockauto: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=63151 GD

That was probably factory sealant. EJ's don't use oil pan gaskets and yes they are very hard to remove. I would trade "hard to remove" anyday for never replacing a gasket again. Cork blows. GD

There's no difference between any of the 90 to 98 EJ22 HG's that I've ever seen. GD

Anaerobic flange sealant is the best stuff for sealing case halves on transmissions and engines. Permatex Anaerobic or Loctite 518. Both are excellent and it doesn't take much at all. GD

No - ALL EJ starters will fit EA's. EJ manual *transmissions* need a starter with a different step on the drive side to fit the starter hole. But these starters WILL fit any EA. There is a difference in auto vs. manual starters but it has to do with gear reductions inside the starter. Effectively one cranks slightly faster and one has more torque but in practice this simply doesn't matter. Both get the job done just fine. GD

Doesn't work for beans on Subaru's due to the cylinder orientation. That and it's a stupid gimick to avoid doing an afternoon's work and $100 in gaskets. GD

It's condensation and a sign that your PCV system isn't working at peak performance. Clean/replace all your PCV hoses, get a PCV valve from the dealer, and replace the PCV filter if equipped (carbed models). GD

85 to 89 DL's. The cool part is that you can swap out the sealed beams for off-the-shelf H4 conversion housings. Some of which will even work with HID's. You can't get squat for the GL assemblies without a lot of custom work, etc. I just bought an HID setup and low beam conversion housings for my EA81 hatch - $88 shipped for the whole mess. GD

I haven't commented about his build lately - I lurk here waiting for the inevitable fail. He attacked me. So I responded. I don't care about his EA other than to laugh when it blows itself to bits. I have plenty of concerns much bigger than what some fool does with his money and time and I haven't commented on that. I've said a few things about what he should do and what he should reasonably shoot for from that engine - that's it. GD