GeneralDisorder

Quite frankly sir - you have no idea what my training is or is not. GD

I wouldn't buy a non-OEM pump if you couldn't access them easily. If it was a drop-the-tank type of operation like many american vehicles - I would go with OEM for the longevity. But Subaru's are easily accesible. GD

Denso platinum's are what I use - quite a bit cheaper than the NGK's platinums or iridiums and they are basically the same plug. Japanese made. GD

Could have got a Walbro for around $100. Kinda silly to buy an OEM one new. They almost never fail - I've replaced like two of them in my entire career. Both times with used one's and no repeat failures. GD

OEM is usually not that much more expensive and they are better fitting as noted. You could try one of the online dealers like 1stsubaruparts.com or subarupartsforyou.com. They tend to be as cheap as my wholesale discount at my local dealer and my prices aren't alarming - often similar to aftermarket actually. Especially on H6 parts. GD

Check the ground on the engine bay harness.... follow the MAF sensor lead back to the harness and then follow the harness out to the end till you find the ground(s). Those will be the main ECU grounds. Also check for grounds on the manifold itself. The manifold harness should have one that bolts to the manifold. GD

Run a compression test just to see..... Could be burned exhaust valves - did you do a valve adjustment when you repalaced the VC gaskets? I had a similar and very frustrating problem on a 25D not long ago. Turned out the owner did the HG's and timing belt himself and didn't properly torque the intake cam pulley bolt. It had chewed up the front of the cam shaft and allowed the intake cam to advance the intake valve timing about 15 to 20 degree's. This caused the compression reading to go UP on that side of the engine (about 220 compared to 185 on the 2/4) and resulted in 1/3 misfire codes, etc - just as in your case. It certainly sounds valve train related since that's the only thing the 1/3 cylinder's share is a common camshaft. GD

Get one from Discount Import Parts. Aftermarket is a relative term..... there's quality (often from the OEM manufacturer but rebranded) and there's junk out there. DIP sells very good quality parts. Check with them and if they can get one I would go with them. Junk yard (used) could be an option but these often leak at the bottom screw where the wire attaches and they tend to be something that gets changed once or twice in the life of the car due to reading low or high or not at all. GD

Correct - any Subaru starter from 1982 to 2004 will interchange. With the exception that EJ manual transmissions require one that fits into their smaller bell-housing hole. The bolt pattern is still identical and ANY starter in that year range will fit any of the EA's. GD

Blue or black, about 2"x3", six pin connection, attached to the hood release cable bracket close to the drivers left knee. GD

Yeah that sounds like something I would be interested in. I'll send you a PM with my info. GD

It is important to note that not ever plug on a harness will have something to plug into. Some are for accesories you don't have. Some are for diagnostic purposes, etc. If it looks dirty inside like it's never been connected to anything - chances are that it hasn't and doesn't need to be. The additional temp switch in the radiator is for models equipped with AC. If you don't have AC then it could be a used radiator from a model that did, etc. GD

You have low compression - fine. Now you have to find out why. Next step is a leak-down test. I really can't understand why no one sugests to continue with the proper testing methods. We can guess at this all day - won't get you anywhere. GD

I have a trailer and I can tow them (one at a time) for about $150 each (gas and labor). You would save considerably more than that as "services" in general are about 32% lower priced here in the Portland than Seattle and I charge about 60% or less of what shops in my area charge. So for a $2500 job in Seattle I am usually around $1200. Ballpark of course..... I also typically replace more parts and use better quality ones than most shops. GD

Seriously? What a pile of morons. I should open an auto electric shop. Sooooo many tech's out there that don't know their way around a meter. Pretty sad since everything in our world is electric now. GD

I've done it - worked fine. Redrill the flexplate just as you would a flywheel. GD

These are rediculously simple. Drift out the old ones with a brass punch and BFH. Drift (on the outer race only) in the new one's and reassemble. They are 6207 ball bearings - you can get 6207-2RS bearings that are pre-greased and sealed for life. If you are really high-speed you can go with 7207 bearings and get axial thrust capability (IMHO the hubs were originally designed to use 7207's). May or may not have to add a .001" shim ring to the inner race spacer to get the right amount of preload on the bearings. The shim dropped our hub temp readings about 20* after a freeway run. GD

1. Reman axles are not all the same. Subaru of America sells reman axles that are of excellent quality. 2. Many problems people have with reman axles can be traced to really poor quality grease and boots. 3. Lack of attention to engine and transmission mounts accounts for a large number of repeat joint failures. 4. Clicking and clacking is not always the axle. Improper installation, bad wheel bearings, and a general lack of attention to the details of the cone washer and hub fitment accounts for a lot of problems people have. 5. Personally I buy either brand new axles from EMPI ($60 to $70 each), or remans from the dealer. I also pay close attention to numbers 1 through 4 above. I don't have repeat failure problems with axles. GD

You could do it - for constant throttle applications. But it would be dangerous under boost because the mixture has to be manually adjusted. Get a little too lean and hit detonation under boost - kiss your engine goodbye. Frankly you are better off with a multi-barrel carb that can be jetted for correct mixture under boost. Either that or a boost enrichment injector. GD

There is no throttle plate or idle circuit to facilitate the engine running with a throttle plate closed. Thus ported vacuum is not possible on this device. It IS NOT suited to automotive use. Period. I agree it's neat to see a VV carb big enough for a Subaru engine. But it's purely acedemic. It's the same price as a brand new Weber and by itself it would be a nightmare to make it move a car down the road. GD

You would be swapping in a VERY problematic engine in place of your super reliable 2.2. The EJ25D is very troublesome. You absolutely should NOT do this. It's a bad idea and will ruin the value of the 96 OWB 5 speed. That's a rare single-year model and highly desireable. If you want the problem engine then sell it and buy a 97 to 99. HUGE fail to get 30 HP. GD

Don't bother with any of the aftermarket gaskets or seals. Most are junk. Get everything from the dealer. GD

That's not a swapped engine - it's stock. But you need to get manifold gaskets from the dealer or (if you want crap) order them at a parts store for a basic Legacy not an outback so you get the 2.2 single port gaskets. GD

Resealing the plastic plates does NOT work. There is no sealant known to man that will seal those things in the long haul. They have to be replaced with the steel/aluminium plates so they share a more similar expansion rate to the block. GD

I never said they didn't exist. But you won't find a set by calling junk yards. To the yards they don't exist because there isn't enough of them to bother keeping track in their computers. GD