GeneralDisorder

You can just cut the existing studs and chamfer the ends so the nuts will start easily. That's what I did in the picture that Stuart posted. I was installing a new WP and it came with studs. So I simply shortened them as needed. Cut with a hacksaw or band-saw, etc and then chamfer on a belt sander, etc. If you want to use bolts - I would get a 6 x 1.0 x 10mm (that's 10mm thread length). That should be sufficient to anchor the pulley and not interfere with anything behind the WP. The fan that we used on Stuart's Loyale is from an EA81 with air conditioning. GD

The two inside the connector that goes to the thermo-switch. Just connect them together and the fan should run constantly. GD

They were never imported to the US by Subaru on a car in anything but 13". There were a few sets sold as upgrades in the 70's. Should you find a set you would be about the 3rd person in the US that I know of to find a set. It is extremely unlikely. You can (and should) get all this information from a simple forum search. Asking these redundant questions is tiresome. GD

Peugeot 504, and 505. Never on a Subaru. 6 lug is the answer. GD

I do these all the time - but I'm down in Portland. Were you wanting to fix them or sell them as-is to someone that can do the repair? If you remove the guts from the thermostat they will typically drive fine if the HG failure isn't too horrible. I've had a couple people drive their cars down to me from Seattle using that method. GD

It's about a 4:1 ratio. 1 gallon of alcohol to each 4 gallons of gas. You can go higher if you need to in order to pass. Don't leave the stuff in there without diluting it - it will eat your fuel system just like E85 will. Percentages up to about 1/3 are safe for the short term. It's worked on every car I've used it on. GD

First - this is CLEAR evidence that your mechanic is incompetant. When replacing cam seals, belts, etc you ALWAYS replace the the $40 water pump. Because you are already right there. The cam seal leakage should have been a full timing belt/WP/seal job and you wouldn't be having this issue today. Further - a water pump job should cost no more than about half what he quoted. If nothing else is being changed (clearly that's his MO) - then it's about 3 hours labor total to change the pump. That should be no more than $350 even at dealer labor rates and considering the price of the pump. More CLEAR evidence that your mechanic is a blind fool. I have an engine in my garage right now that happily ran to 470k before loosing a rod bearing. You don't need a new car - you need a new mechanic. One thats going to treat you right, not rip you off, and do what's in your best interest not in the interest of having return business. I do this every day and I see it all the time. Same thing happened to my neighbor down the street - she had the timing belt done about 30k miles ago and the water pump wasn't replaced by her "mechanic" so here I am stuck telling her the bad news because of some damn fool's corner cutting and pocket lining. I HATE having to be the bearer of that kind of message and I fully blame the last mechanic for putting me in that situation. GD

Yep - it was an option on the GL's. Even the EA81's had it as an option. It actually works quite well on a 5MT if you are on the flat and level. Forget about it seamlessly pulling hills. Clutch will turn it off so you can't shift with it on. GD

It's nothing new - it's a variable venturi carb. They use them on motorcycles all the time. Harley carbs are basically the same but could actually be used for an automotive application. The largest of the Harley carbs are actually used quite frequently as upgrades on the Suzuki Samurai 1.3. They aren't big enough for a 1.8 though. Big problems for automotive use: 1. They lack any kind of choke. Cold enrichment is accomplished manually with the mixture control. 2. (this version) has a manual mixture adjustment that has to be dialed in for each desired RPM and running condition you wish to run at. It does NOT manually adjust with throttle (venturi) position. Couldn't be run from a single cable hooked to a gas pedal 3. It has no provision for ported vacuum and being a variable venturi design - it doesn't even have a place you could add such a feature. This is the biggest problem with running the Harley VV carbs - no place to hookup the distributor vacuum advance so you have to recurve the disty to be 100% mechanical or go with something like EDIS or an MSD system. GD

Pass. As others have said it will be a mess inside. 95% chance you will have to rebuild/replace the entire engine. Leaking coolant externally sounds like exhaust port coolant jacket cracking so the heads are big paper weights - coolant will destroy the cylinder liners sitting for years like that so you would be looking at a new block, new heads, etc. And you would never get your $400 back. Go spend your $400 on a first generation Legacy. 20 more HP and no ancient turbo-charged mess to deal with. Last Legacy I bought needed a timing belt job and radiator and cost $550. GD

Standard practice on EA's - they sometimes have a tendancy to not want to line up right with respect to the pilot bearing and the input shaft. Leaving the PP bolts loose till you have the engine and transmission mated together eliminates this problem. GD

More than likely the distributor shaft bushings are shot. GD

Old wives tale actually. At least on the Subaru's it is. Once the syncro is engaged (shift complete) all it's component parts are spinning the same speed - no wear can take place since none of the peices are moving relative to each other. You can wear out the nylon fork slides but that's a different issue entirely and won't cause grinding. Resting your hand on the shifter is not detrimental that I've seen - the most common failure on the 5MT's is 2nd gear syncro grinding - which simply can't be from resting your hand on the shifter because you aren't in second long enough durring normal driving to affect damage that way - and the other failure is rear input shaft bearing failure - which can be attributed to a number of things - not changing the gear oil for one, and mis-alignment from missing bell-housing dowel pins for another. GD

No - this one: http://www.rislone.ca/34100.htm GD

You should start your own post. GD

Well - he may have redone them recently. But rear bearings take some finess when installing. Could be a bad install job. Pretty easy to mess them up. GD

Just fill it, run it for 100 miles or so and drain it out. You should notice that the shifting is a lot smoother by then. Then you can put whatever you like in it. Redline is my #3 choice actually - behind Subaru extra-s and Motul. GD

Nothing compares to the bias ply Interco Swampers. I wouldn't even bother with anything else. I've tried lesser tires and there's just no comparison. Sure - they will beat you mercilessly on the freeway - but it's the price you pay for unmatched mud performance. GD

That's a problem - because it shouldn't move freely. It should have spring tension against it from the choke spring. Almost certainly the choke spring is broken. That's a very common issue with EA82 Hitachi's. The hook on the end of the spring wears through and falls off. You may be able to bend a new hook into the end of the spring with some pliers or find a good one at the junk yard - or buy a new choke assembly from the dealer ($$$). The other option is to convert the choke to a manual using one of the universal manual choke kits thats available at most auto parts stores. GD

That axle looks about normal to me - but it's hard to say from pics. Inner axle boots always look a little stretched and those splines in the front arean't usually very tight between the axle and transmission stub.... hard to say. If you are going to own an EA82 and are going to attempt to track down every rattle, squeek and sproing you hear - you need to invest in one of these. It will save your sanity and help you a tremendous amount when looking for this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/Steelman-STE6600-Stethoscope-Squeak-Rattle-Finding/dp/B002XMW02Y GD

Edit - Looking at it closer and thinking back to what that ballast resistor is for - it's purpose is to drop the voltage when the engine is running to where it's at when cranking the engine without the alternator pitching in to help. Thus you need to move the black/white wire to the coil positive and then take out the ballast resistor. You really should also be running the later coil that matches the later distrubutor so that it's designed for full system voltage. There should also be another wire going to the coil positive currently that bypasses the ballast resistor when you are cranking the engine. Verify that this is the case and just leave that wire attached to the coil. GD

They are typically soldered - not brazed. Brazing is usually too hot of an operation and you would be in danger of blowing holes in the brass of the tanks and tubes. Personally I have had bad luck with radiator repair - I just take mine to a radiator shop. The cost is not significant enough to warrant the frustration IMO. Usually costs me about $65 to have a radiator flushed, sealed up, and painted. I typically have any plastic plugs and drain cock's replaced with brass or plugged off at the same time. Just not worth the frustration of doing it myself. GD

I would caution against the redline at first - it's expensive - about $12 a quart. Try a full fill of straight ATF (yes - automatic transmission fluid) and see if that helps your grinding. If it does then don't use the MT90 - Get one of these in this order of preference: 1. Subaru Extra-S 2. Motul 75w90 3. Redline 75w90NS The MT90 doesn't have the right additives for the hypoid differential. Those three do. But ONLY use one of those ($$$$) if you have any luck at all with the ATF. ATF is the smoothest shifting gear lube you will ever find - but it doesn't have the right additives for the hypoid diff so you can't run it long-term. A few hundred miles won't hurt though. I use it to clean out dirty, nasty transmissions all the time. GD

Sorry - I meant I would have to see it in person. You should pull the e-clip that connects the choke plate shaft to the linkage and see if it's the linkage or the shaft, or misadjusted plates, etc. GD

Definitely sounds like either wheel bearings or a really bad axle joint. You bought an EA82 didn't you? :-p Let the nickle and dime game begin! GD