GeneralDisorder

Subaru hasn't even used a metal tank radiator in over a decade. Correctly manufactured there is no issue with them. They tend to last just about as long as the brass units. Further the plastic tanks handle the expansion characteristics of their aluminium cores better and the single row aluminium core rejects more heat than a single row brass core. GD

Take your distributor slightly south and see these gentlemen: http://www.philbingroup.com/ They can take care of whatever it needs - shaft bushings, vac advance, pickup's, etc. Typically it's around $75 to $100 to have one gone through. A few years back when I was a broke college student they hooked me up with new bushings and a vac advance diaphram for $55. GD

Just hone it round again and have the pistons coated by SwainTech. They can add .004" to the skirts and save your block. GD

Just about any of the Legacy racks will work typically. Just about all the shocks and struts you can find used will be bad - especially the rear's - better to get some KYB GR-2's for it. Pretty much all the 95 to 99 Muffler's are the same. Have to read the code(s) and go from there. Sounds like the mesh screen/pickup tube on the bottom of the fuel pump is missing or has fallen off. I would pull the pump/sending unit assembly and inspect that first - seen that happen a time or two. If you want to bring it by I'm down in West Linn - about 45 minutes south of Vancouver - about 6 miles from where 205 joins back into 5. PM me if you want to stop in. GD

That depends on what you need for it? GD

Idle mixture (ONLY idle mixture) screw is at the bottom front of the carb. It was designed to never need adjustment and is blocked by a roll-pin. It is unlikely that you need to change it. GD

It would say LSD in very large letters. LSD's never came in automatic's. If you want to be absolutely sure - turn one of the stubs. If the other turns the same direction then it's an LSD (or welded). If it rotates the opposite direction it's a normal open diff. GD

As noted - without the rest of the engine it's basically a nice wall ornament. Going to the trouble of fixing that twin-hitachi setup and making it work would be a time-consuming and messy task (parts availibility) when you can just build your own setup from new parts and new carbs. Just build some adaptors to mount the carbs of your choice to each head, build a coolant cross-over, and rip it up. GD

There's about a half dozen problems that cause this: Oil pump/seals Cam carrier o-rings Bypass valve springs Dirty/worn lifters Worn lifter buckets Worn out bottom end (rod/main bearings). Any and all of these contribute to the problem. Fixing one of them may solve it or you may have to go farther. Depends on how low the pressure is at the lifters and how much aeration of the oil is taking place due to failed seals. There is no magic bullet for lifter tick - changing oil viscocity will only result in worse protection against wear - either at startup or at operating temp depending on which way you go. Repair in a bottle has similar effects over time as it is not what Subaru engineers had in mind when they designed the engine - they designed it to use 10w30 oil. Not a bunch of additives or different weights except in extreme hot or cold climates. GD

You'll just have to inspect stuff. It's likely that it needs shocks anyway due to age. That could be part of it and they are cheap. Ball joints and tie-rod ends are common sources of noise. As are axle joints when making sharp turns, etc. Those noises could be any of a dozen things - best to just get under it and start looking and prying on things to check what's loose. Swaybar bushings, leading rod bushings, rack bushings - all that stuff gets old, loose, mushy, etc. GD

Pretty much worthless. They are common as dirt, never fail, and a real bear to ship due to their weight. It's easier to just recycle them as scrap metal. GD

Some wagons also had them but it was rare. It's a standard 5MT D/R with a locking center diff. The low range is only 1.2:1 and the final drive is 3.7:1 so effectively if you put them in low-range they have the same gearing as a "normal" 1.59:1/3.9 D/R has when in high range. So pretty useless except on a very small range of builds (lower end of the performance spectrum and with a "street" setup) or as a platform for building special transmissions using parts from a normal D/R and the XT6 R&P to get a 3.9 final and 1.59:1 low w/locking center. GD

They don't seem to be available anymore. Some places will list them but when people have asked them to lay eyes on the part and confirm the number of cores it's either a single core or a mis-represented EA81 radiator which are all two-core units. There was a time when you could get them - but they seem to have ceased production on the EA82 dual-core units. A brand new single core unit should be adequate - especially if you don't have a turbo model. If it's not then you have other cooling system problems besides the radiator. GD

Definitely check all the valve adjustments. Usually somewhere between 1/4 to 1/2 the valves will need new shims. Have the heads resurfaced if you haven't already. Use only Subaru head gaskets. They redesigned the gasket about 4 times so you want the latest from Subaru. GD

Certainly. It's been done many times. Check the retrofitting forum. GD

Is this a 2.2 or a 2.5? GD

Your Brat was never a Turbo. Turbo decals perhaps.... but definitely not fuel injected or turbo-charged. Also - if the cam broke because of a seized oil pump - you can just toss the whole engine short-block in the dumpster because it will not be pretty inside. It will be easier to just find a used EA81 and drop that in. Your best bet for more power, if you still want FI and more power, is an EJ22 swap. It will be about half as much work as converting your's to an EA81T and you'll get more reliability, and 40 more HP without the need for a turbo. GD

The EA81 is a 1.8L engine. They did not make EA81's that were 1.6L - that would be an EA71. If your's is an '84 Brat with turbo decals.... that *wasn't* really a turbo.... then you can't "put back" anything because it never had any of that stuff. Please take a picture of your engine bay and post it here. I can tell you with absolute certainty if it was a geniune turbo or not. GD

If you have to ask - too hard. GD

15's are very common and not much different in price. Your Brighton came with 14's but a GT of the same year would have come with 15's. Just lookup tires for a GT instead. GD

Check with the dealer on a contact kit for it. I would probably use some form of Lithium Complex (white or off-white) grease. That is the most common thing to find in small gear drive's like starters and wiper motors, etc. Lubriplate makes some really good quality mil-spec stuff. GD

When you do get around to replacing it - you can always wire up a connector for a newer model sensor - they are all the same with respect to operation but it is much more common to find good used sensors on the newer models..... though a new sensor is pretty cheap on rock-auto - I think around $25..... so it's hard to justify much work either preventative or otherwise. GD

Often old rubber will shrink - it probably wasn't a real tight fit anymore and just slowely worked it's way in till the lip popped off the back of the crank. GD

Drain the gear oil. I'm sure there will be enough evidence there to indicate massive internal failure. GD

Drill a divot into the end of the bolt and use a small two or three jaw puller with a pointed end to push the bolt out. I would cut off the end opposite the head and push it out rather than through as the head portion may neck-up slightly and be hard push through the bushing. GD