GeneralDisorder

Yep - not that unusual. I've seen at least three radiators do that - where the plastic cracks somewhere on the tank - it often is nowhere near the seams either. Just old plastic I guess. GD

I have seen it work that way on EA's - not specifically Justy's but I have seen people eliminate the AIS system with the installation of a new cat and pass smog without a problem. The new cat's don't need that system. GD

No it should not be like that. Crankcase's build pressure and tend to blow out seals not suck them in. Likely it was simply installed that way. Nothing will be starved of oil - if the seal is installed at full depth like that it will partially block the return hole at the bottom of the seal pocket. This can cause the seal to have too much oil surrounding the lip and thus it can leak past. I would have to hear the sound to determine if it's likely to be a rod knock or not. GD

Someone asked if ATF would hurt the front diff - eventually it would cause accelerated wear, yes. But to do a few drain/fill's with ATF and drive it gently a couple hundred miles will not hurt it. You do need a gear oil for the front diff. But ATF is GREAT for the rest of the transmission - in fact many cars other than Subaru call for ATF in their manual transmissions because it works so well with syncro's, etc. It also cleans like nothing else. The Motul is just about as good as the Extra-S. But it's also expensive and hard to get here in the US. I think it's about $17 a quart. There is at least one web site where you can order the motul and where they sell the Extra-S in quarts. All new Subaru's are factory filled with Extra-S in their manual transmissions. Including the 6 speed's. GD

Just about every Subaru is approx. 1.5 to 1.75 gallons. Thus a single bottle of concentrate will do the job. If you want to use premix or the new Subaru blue stuff then you will need two bottles and there will be a little left. GD

Dead platform for a performance build. Sure people are still driving them around in stock form. Nothing wrong with using them up if they are still on the road. They are just a pain in the rump roast in so many ways.... GD

Chances are very good that the rod bearings are wiped out. If, after sitting overnight, you get a sharp rattle for about 2 seconds on startup - the rod bearings are shot. If it's not super high mileage, doesn't burn oil, and the cylinders look good when you pull off the heads - split the block, replace the main and rod bearings, polish the crank, and put it back together. Main and rod bearings are inexpensive - about the same cost as HG's - all you need to split the block and put it back together is a slide-hammer with a hook to remove the wrist pins. With buying some sealant for the case halves (I prefer anaerobic), a lower-end gasket set, and a few tools to get it apart, you can replace the bearings in the short block for about $125. Surface the block halves and heads with sandpaper and glass. Or have the heads done by a machine shop if you prefer. HG's, intake, and exhaust gaskets will run about $100 from the dealer. You can easily do a "rebuild" on the engine you have for less than the cost of a replacement or even an EJ22 swap. It's just a matter of not being scared to do it. GD

Pull the engine and find out what you did wrong. SPFI to Weber is a Downgrade. You don't want to be known as the guy who tried to run a Weber with a 50 psi fuel pump. GD

Nope - not worth doing. The EA82 is a terrible platform from which to start doing performance mods. Look into the EJ22 swap. Cams are different between turbo and non but you wouldn't want a turbo grind for a performance NA block. Delta Camshaft can do a "torque" grind but again - why bother starting with an 84 HP dead platform? Just go to the EJ22 and get 135 right out of the gate. Then for the same $ your torque grind goes farther..... if you even need to bother. GD

Yes - double sealed bearings are "-2RS". Those are correct. GD

In order of preference: 1. Subaru Extra-S 2. Motul 75w90 3. Redline 75w90NS For the first few hundred miles - run straight ATF just to flush it out. Do a drain/fill with ATF every 100 miles about 3 times. Should get most of the crap out. GD

Very nice! The custom front bumper and grill are nice additions. GD

What you have is a major power distribution problem if it won't even turn over. You need to check the power connections at the main fuse panel under the hood. Something is amiss in the circuits that feed 12v to the starter solenoid...... GD

That's exactly how I handle them. Clean everything, replace key, sprocket and balancer, and loctite (blue NOT red ) the bolt and I haven't had an issue with any of them. GD

You don't seem to understand here - erasing the codes (by ANY means including resetting the ECU, clearing the code via OBD-II, or replaceing the ECU entirely) will result in all the readiness monitors being reset. By the time you drive far enough for them to click over to "ready" the light will be back. There is no way around it other than having a tuner shop reflash the ECU or fixing the problem. GD

When you have the remote shifters ready - I'm ready to buy a BH and shifter set . Thought I would add to the "motivation". GD

Sounds like they gave you a bastard kit - disc for an EA82 and T/O bearing for an EA81. Take it all back and start over. Go with an Exedy kit from Amazon. Cheapest price and OEM quality (Exedy is the OEM). GD

That doesn't work - testing stations check the readiness monitors. If they are incomplete they will tell you to drive it around and come back in 50 miles. By then the light will return. GD

Once you have the EJ25 out of there it shouldn't be "too much trouble" anymore. You have got rid of the biggest headache by putting in the more reliable engine. Would be a bit silly to get rid of it now - especially to do a trade-in. Someone will appreciate what you have done and give you a lot more for the car just selling it on craigslist. GD

Valve covers, cam seals, and seperator plate are the most common leaks. The oil pan is done with RTV from the factory and they NEVER leak unless it's been replaced with cork or something. GD

Needs plate steel for structural reinforcement. The welds will be more brittle than the surrounding material and may crack again in the same spot or right next to it. GD

That's not the right way to do it - yeah you could enlarge the threads but then you have bastardized the whole thing and can't use interchangeable components..... better to just invest in a heli-coil and do it the right way. But yes - if the world ended tomorrow and I couldn't get a heli-coil of the size needed.... that's when you consider tapping oversized and using some SAE bolt off your tractor. The crankshaft is likely case-hardened and will probably drill very nicely down the interior..... the crank nose itself is not very hard at all. Quite soft in fact. GD

I'm sure you could accomplish the job. The biggest hurdle for someone that's not outfitted like a real mechanic is going to be getting the crank nose drilled since it's a tight fit between the AC condensor and the front of the engine. It would be a simple matter to pull the engine in a real shop but you may not have the tools for that. A right angle drill and some short drill bits can likely accomplish the task as well. Or removal of the condensor - especially if the AC has no charge or is otherwise uneeded/unwanted. GD

I would be inspecting things closely - it may be that the bolt is damaged and should be replaced also. I would drill it, stack two heli-coil's, and be on my way down the road. This is nothing special for a *real* mechanic. We do this kind of thing every day. Heck just a week or two back I had to do both front calipers from an '06 STi - they are $700 (each) Brembo 4-pot's and I had to drill out a completely seized 10mm x 1.5 caliper mount bolt, and heli-coil all four holes. Want to talk about a pucker factor 9 moment? Try drilling a hardened steel bolt out of a $700 aluminium caliper. . But it came out just fine. Heli-coil's are just another tool. A real mechanic is a master of tools. Welding wouldn't work. The weld arc will produce a harder material and the tap will not go in straight. That and welding inside a deep, blind hole..... unpossible! GD

The crank bolt's only job is to apply enough pressure to the balancer and timing belt sprocket to keep them from moving. I would heli-coil the crank nose, clean up the damaged keyway and put it back together. I've worked on two engines with damaged keyway's and in both cases I was able to clean the keyway, fit a new key, and install the crank pulley's and bolt - in these two cases I used blue loctite as an added safegaurd (I don't normally use anything) and neither has had a single problem since. I don't see a reason to not heli-coil the crank nose. This is a no-brainer repair and isn't going to "total" the car. You'll probably be out $50 to $80 for the large heli-coil that will be needed. Not at all a "total" situation. That's just silly. GD