GeneralDisorder

Ah - yeah you just said you weren't concerned with it. But indeed you will get a code till you come up with a way to give the EGR flow sensor some exhaust gasses. GD

U-Haul's web site says a 5' x 9' utility trailer is acceptable behind an '89 GL Wagon. Same goes for their motorcycle trailer's as well as the 4' x 7' utility trailer. I'm pretty sure a large corporate entity like that would not want the liability of saying "This towing combination will work with your setup." if it were that dangerous. Subaru sold hitches for these cars through their dealer network. That also shows that some combinations are in fact safe. The owners manual statement is just a CYA on the part of Subaru. They don't want any possibility of liability without being able to inspect each and every combination like U-Haul is able to do at the point of rental, etc. GD

O2 sensors can fail immediately following a swap - I've had it happen. Especially if the failure was head gasket related. Check connections first of course. Knock sensor is probably just bad - they crack and moisture seeps inside them, etc. Try the one from your 2.5. EGR could be a blocked passage or you used a 2.2 without an EGR . GD

Burr removal is generally done with a file or abrasive stone.... by hand. Not with full-surface sanding. I've done a ton of bearing fitment and it is acceptable to clean up a mating surface with something slightly abrasive. 3M Fabricut for example is what I use and it's 120 grit..... just be careful that you are cleaning and not removing material: http://erisautomotivetools.com/3M-5072.aspx That's why I said it was problematic.... you have to know what you are doing. If you are talking about an engine bearing surface (sleeve bearing like a rod or main) then you should be polishing with no coarser than 600 grit and finishing with 1200...... GD

NED's clock won't go out. I resoldered it's circuit board several years ago. . GD

NAPA is too expensive. I get NSK bearings (Japanese) for $28. Seals for $5 each but as I noted you shouldn't need them. Used hubs are plentiful , not a wear item, and recycling is a good thing for all of us and the planet. Hammer for removal is fine. DO NOT pound on new bearings!!!! Sanding the bearing mating surfaces on the hub is..... problematic. Don't do this unless you KNOW what you are doing. They are already prone to problems in this area. Less purchase would be a bad thing. You provided no insight on how to install them. I really don't think the OP needs a buying guide on how to waste his money on expensive parts.... GD

I use a 20 ton. But for the one thing I use it for (the outer bearing cone) I'm sure a 6 ton would do it. I have pulled them off with a modified three jaw puller also. Setup time on a press as well as the potential for deformation of the knuckle makes the hub-tamer/hub-shark/HF FWD set a better and quicker alternative all the way around. GD

180k is barely broken in for most of the 2.2's. If they have had any normal amount of care they will just keep on going. GD

Oil coolers are VERY helpful. They will pay for themselves in longer oil change intervals over the life of the car. They are pretty much standard on the turbo's (as they should be). And the non-turbo's that have them seem to be some of the longest lived engines subaru has ever made. And yes - you can't just run a cooler - you need a thermostat to keep the oil from getting too cool or you need to cool the oil with engine coolant to keep it the same temp. GD

No - that's just the point where the t-stat begins to open. The engine temp is based on the fan set-points and heat rejection of the radiator and heater core..... which are dependant on the flow rate of the thermostat - the t-stat is not an on/off type of device - it will begin to open at 172* F and may not be fully open till it hits 180 or 185. Fan set-points are usually around 195 to 200 or so and the temp can continue to climb on a gauge for a number of seconds after the fan(s) activate. It is perfectly normal to see engine temp flluctuate between 180 and 200 or even creep up to 205 under the right conditions. GD

You just twist the little rubber mount and bolt it down. No they don't line up perfectly but it's good enough. GD

Loyale's were only availible with the EA82T for one year - '90. So it's probably an 85 to 89 Turbo..... but it could be a '90. GD

I don't think that's a wise course of action unless there are compelling reasons to think serious damage resulted from sitting (unlikely). Just reseal it and be on your way. Even engines that don't sit will start leaking after many years and miles. Why spend the money on a replacement engine that you will have to reseal before installing anyway? Just reseal the one you have. GD

I do a lot of them so I have the tools - both a press and the harbor frieght bearing service set. Only thing I use the press for is to get the outer bearing cone off the hub. I almost always am able to reuse the seals - they are usually not damaged - just dirty. Total cost is about $28 and two or three hours. It's not a difficult job at all once you understand the process. It can be done without removing the knuckle from the car. About 25% of the time the hub will be trashed because the inner bearing has spun on the hub and chowed it up. Used hub's from the yard run about $10. GD

Pull engine. Only time I pull transmissions is on turbo models where I need to do the clutch, etc or when I'm changing/rebuilding the transmission. GD

Oil seperator plate (plastic). Have to pull the engine and install the updated steel plate and bolts that don't warp and leak. Possibly rear main seal also - but much less likely as they are Viton. Either way it's the same story - pull the engine. GD

EJ thermostat's are 172* EA thermostat's are 197* GD

Porsche engines are not something Porsche owners are proud of. They have fabulous suspension systems and handling - they suck at building engines that are reliable long-term. Porsche owners think nothing of rebuiling an engine after 100k miles. For example - the Boxster has a TERRIBLE engine. Underpowered, EXPENSIVE (about $10k to build a performance version), and super unreliable. You can pickup Boxster's with blown engines for around the $4k to $6k range. There's a project over on NASIOC to build a kit for installing the EJ255 and EJ257. They already have a proto-type car built. It's considerably faster than the stock power plant and half or less than the cost of a replacement performance Boxster engine. GD

It should come on very easily. You should install a cheap boost gauge to see if you are even getting any boost pressure. The light comes on based on a pressure switch - when manifold pressure goes positive (higher than ambient air pressure) the switch trips the light. Could be a bad switch.... or perhaps you aren't actually getting much boost. Which doesn't sound like it's the case since a turbo without boost is pretty gutless due to the low compression ratio. GD

Funny thing is - the EJ257 uses the EXACT same headers, cross-over, and up-pipe as the 22T. GD

You can't chase misfires with a knock sensor code - knock sensors provide feedback that alters ignition timing directly - thus if they are not working it is entirely possible that you may be experiencing misfire codes as a result. Misfire codes can be set by all kinds of issues that aren't *exactly* misfires per-se. The crank sensor is used to determine misfire codes and any issue that causes an alteration of the crankshaft rotational speed can set a misfire if it occurs multiple times. GD

No the XT6 clutch was used on the 88, 89, and 91 XT6's - that's it (yes they skipped a year). You want to ask for an XT6 clutch set - for any of those years. Be prepared for sticker shock. The pressure plate alone is about $165 from the dealer. The entire kit is probably close to $300. GD

Axles really aren't the issue - you just swap DOJ's for the EJ 25 spline units - or open up the AWD box and snap in some 23 spline stubs to the front diff so you can use stock EA81 axles. Either way that's not the big concern. Using EJ outers is a much more difficult propsition - though using the whole EJ cross-member would allow unmodified EJ axles - it would complicate the lift design somewhat and will essentially require that the front lift be built completely custom to allow for the extra width on the cradle and the strut tops. For a lifted rig you really should consider the 6 lug conversion vs. the 5 lug. Many more wheel options that are condusive to that type of a vehicle and would not require a major redesign of the front chassis. GD

Depends on the EJ in question. The EJ257 (USDM WRX STi) is a bit larger than the 93 Impreza EJ18. But not as much as you might think. GD

There is a difference in the rails. For sure. A set of red-top rails will fix you right up. GD