GeneralDisorder

I have an 80 cubic foot tank myself. I can't imagine running one that's 1/4 the size. That would mean 4x as many fill-ups on my tank. No thanks! GD

No Subaru's were produced in the US with interferance engines till 1996. GD

It should be noted that depending on which 2.5 block you are using - you may wish to select different HG's based on thickness to raise or lower the compression ratio. With the EJ25D you have no choice as the pistons crest above the block surface at TDC thus you have to use a gasket that's "thick" to compensate for this. Careful consideration of block and HG choice is very important. Cometic doesn't have that great of a reputation.... and I have heard of few problems with the updated OEM Subaru gaskets. For some combination perhaps Cometic has a thickness that Subaru does not but for the EJ25D at least - OEM is the way to go. GD

Nope. No problems at all. Just run it. You can replace the rocker assemblies with normal 90 to 94 HLA's or you can use the later solid-lifter RR units from '97/'98..... I really don't see why you can't use the RR HLA rockers..... AFAIK you can use any rocker assembly with any cam grind on the gen-1 heads. I'll confirm that with my "source" at Delta though. GD

Cometic is crap - they leak like 1-ply toilet paper. You want the EJ25D updated MLS gasket from Subaru if you are using the EJ25D block (have to use this one actually for purely mechanical reasons or the pistons will hit the head). Highly reccomend the RV torque grind. Complements the low-RPM power of the Frankenmotor very well. Amsoil is crap and synthetic ATF is uneccesary. ATF by it's very nature stays clean and useable for tens of thousands of miles and a simple drain/fill every 30k with cheap ATF and proper tire sizes will keep them perfectly happy for their usable lifespan - which is about 500k when maintained. I have no clue - it's a Brat that weighs 2200 lbs with a close-ratio JDM STi 5MT and front/rear LSD's..... it's very quick. GD

2.5 bottom ends are just fine. It's the lack of proper maintenance (oil changes) and unwillingness to accept head gasket failure that claims them - and that's only the 25D that has this issue really. Most of them don't fail untill well over 250k miles. I have personally torn down 25D's with excellent maintenance histories including three sets of head gaskets and 265k miles to find the bearings in good condition. As for the frankenmotor - you don't speak from experience so you don't know what you are talking about. Power over 5.5k RPM is WAY over-rated and mostly useless. Coupled with a close-ratio transmission you don't need to rev past that - you should be shifting anyway. If you don't like it (having never tried it) then don't build one - go ahead and build a 2.5 instead. You'll spend 10x as much money and you'll have a very powerful 2.5 I'm sure - but nothing that my 2.2 Turbo can't run circles around..... You see - we have done the math here - you can't do better than the frankenmotor for HP-per-$. If you want to spend big money on your engine then you are entering the realm of turbo-charging and you would be silly to leave all that extra power on the table. Building an expensive non-turbo is silly and pointless when you can just build an expensive turbo instead and have twice as much fun and plenty of reliability. If your goal is cheap, reliable, non-turbo power - the Frankenmotor is the ONLY option. GD

It's not a preload type of operation..... I take it you didn't take note of where those bearing cup/seal rings were located and now you need to set them properly? This is not going to be pretty - you have to set your R&P lash all over again and then check your tooth contact pattern with prussian blue. This can be done by locking the pinion shaft to the lower shaft with a section of 1.5" radiator hose and some clamps - then you can insert a dial indicator through the drain plug hole and you will be able to measure the tooth lash between the R&P gears. IIRC it is supposed to be about .005" to .007". Once that is set you then have to do a contact pattern test with prussian blue to insure that you have the side-to-side adjustment correct...... This is the UGLY part of setting up a tranny with a new front diff - if you are careful this only has to be done on transmissions with radiacally different arrangments or one's that are getting a change of final drive ratio or different front diff. Usually you just put the bearing cup adjusters back where you found them and all is right with the world. GD

You DO NOT Want to use O/A to do sheet metal work. Especially working around a vehicle - the open flame is just not in any way convienent..... and the learning curve to weld thin sheet goods with O/A..... well I'm pretty handy with a MIG gun and I wouldn't even consider trying it. O/A is for heating, bending, and cutting. Though sheet metal is best cut with plasma. In my opinion, MIG (GMAW not FCAW) is the ONLY option for automotive body work. And with thin sheet metal it is imperitive that you have a decent quality machine - I would be looking for a Miller 110v MIG welder to do body work - or if you plan on doing more than just thinner stuff go with a 230v unit. I also like the Thermal-Arc offerings. GD

We run 92.... ALWAYS. It's a race engine and both of us are used to it from running EJ turbo's as daily's anyway. Actually the frankenmotor gets super excelent gas mileage due to it's high compression - makes the engine more effecient. Especially compared to my EJ22T that currently makes about the same HP and uses 16 MPG on premium . GD

Huge waste of effort. There's little to no gain to be had by swapping manifolds and adding phenolic spacers to a plain EJ22 manifold..... to what end? Love it for what it is - reliable and slow. If you want performance and are willing to do that much work for almost nothing - why not do a frankenmotor for a *little* more work and get about 60 HP out of the deal? Then you can do your spacers and newer intake, etc. GD

Check your fuel pressure. GD

Nice.... work bench with "gutter" FTW. I forgot to mention that the rear input shaft bearing's come in two flavors - a 7 ball bearing like you have there and a 10 ball-bearing that I've seen on the turbo's (at least the '96 JDM STi tranny I tore down was) They seem to be 100% interchangeable (used a 7 ball replacement on it) and one of the things I'm going to do is verify that my '91 SS tranny has the 10-ball unit and see if that part number is still available.... should have told you about that - sorry. In any case they seem to last a good 200k or so regardless. Looks good. GD

The 2.4 (more correctly it's a 2.35) is an EJ22 with an EJ25 crank and rods. It's stoked but not bored. The cheapest power is the EJ25D with EJ22E heads. With torque cams, etc they will dyno over 190 HP. If you don't think 190 HP will be enough - try it before you knock it! In an EA chassis that's about the power-to-weight of a stock 2.0L WRX. The one we built for renob123's Brat cost $700 - that's $200 for a low mileage used 25D, $165 for torque cams, $185 for a head rebuild/valve grind, ebay timing belt/idler/WP kit, and misc. gaskets, etc. You can't get that kind of power-per-dollar with any other combo. GD

Yes it is possibly to do a blow-through.... you won't like the learning curve. It's a whole can of worms - the EASY part is making the turbo/exhaust fit - the rest is a crazy assortment of pressure regulation, orifices, and tuning that will make your hair grey. I've been involved in such an animal and it is not something that I would reccomend to anyone but a patient, master mechanic. The exhaust will more or less bolt-up but the engine cross-member will have to be modified to clear the down-pipe or you will have to source a cross-member from an EA81T. GD

A 90 Loyale will be a three speed auto unless its a turbo. Which can work with the EJ by redrilling the flex-plate crank pattern. Putting in an EJ and a 4EAT is way too much work for a Loyale - just sell it and get a Legacy. GD

Drive them back in and stake them. Doesn't seem like a big deal to repair to me. GD

Very BAD idea. EJ22 is easier, more reliable, and more powerful. You DO NOT want that turbo. Trust us. GD

EJ25D (dohc) use the pistons that crest above the block but they are dished to make up for it in compression and are actually better than 251 or 253 pistons because they don't make the compression insanely high - they are "just right" and yield a good but manageable increase. GD

The SPFI EA82 makes 90 HP. Plugged cats could have been an issue but it's unlikely on an SPFI rig. The stock airbox/snorkel/filter system has been flow benched by a prominent member here and IS NOT A RESTRICTION so it is not possible that you got any gains from it. You probably got a net loss because you are now pulling in warm engine-bay air rather than cold air from the wheel well. The additional sound has probably tricked your brain into thinking it's faster - you are not the first to beleive he got power from a CAI. All you are really accomplishing is extra noise and the possibility of hydro-locking your engine if you go through a deep puddle. As a general rule Subaru intake's are very good and will easily handle more power than you are making. They simply are not a good place to focus time/money as you will gain nothing. Yes - I am positive you can get 27 on the interstate doing 60. In fact it should be closer to 29 with the SPFI doing interstate runs. Have you changed the O2 sensor yet? If you have to keep it floored to do 60 - something is seriously wrong with your engine. That's the power level of my lifted hatch - which DOES have a 74 HP engine, 8" of lift, and is running 31" swampers. I would be checking your timing - both valve and ignition. SPFI EA82's are not *that* underpowered. What you describe is what how I expect people to be describing their lifted EA powered rig or an EA71 automatic, etc. GD

The Seattle area seems to get higher prices than most other places in the US. Though there are places in the rust belt where the EA series cars are highly prized by certain folks and they will pay a lot more for them. It's a bit of a "cornered market" effect - if you need a reliable 4WD for skiing, fishing, camping, and other off-road type activities and you don't have a lot to spend..... Subaru is about your only option these days. It's about the fuel economy and the ability to go where only trucks and SUV's can normally take you. There are other options for sure but most are not common and not easy to find parts for, etc. And I know of no other "car" that has ever come with any kind of low range . You are in the right area to find EA81's - it's just going to be a waiting game. They are out there - I own three right now and have had dozens over the years. I just sent one to CA with a board member in fact. I have owned.... probably over 100 Subaru's. I have played with all the years and models and since I run a Subaru shop I have worked on most everything up through about 2006 or so. On any given day you can see many vintages of Subaru's here but one thing you will almost never see is an EA82. I pretty much have no use for the '85 to 94 Loyale bodied cars other than I rip out their SPFI system to use on EA81's and I will use their 5 speed D/R transmissions. Other than that (and with a few exceptions like the RX's and Touring wagons) I have no desire to mess with that engine. GD

There are plenty of people getting 27 to 29 MPG without any of your "mods" so that alone proves they were not the cause. You are still at well below the normal range for mileage. Hell - I can get 28 mpg from a later 90's Outback with 165 HP and bigger wheels/tires! GD

Not worth it - use your credit to get a 5 speed D/R instead. The 4's are obsolete and are just a MESS to rebuild. The 5's are better and stronger all around. GD

Yeah - you used the small (83+ 2WD) clutch. Not good for lifted rigs or larger tires, etc. They increased the diameter of the clutch by 25mm for the 83 and newer 4WD's. GD

If you really want to understand that type of Subaru love - get an EA81. '80 to '84 wagon. They are 1000% more lovable than the EA82 GL/Loyale. GD

I have bought at least half a dozen first generation Legacy's for under $1000. In the last 4 months I've bought two for $500 each. In both cases they were on the road and ready for the next 60k miles for way less than $1000. GD