GeneralDisorder

15 Ft/lbs would likely snap them right off. Go with 25 INCH/lbs and you'll be just fine. No one actually torque's those BTW. They are shouldered - we just tighten them using a 1/4" ratchet. GD

You should start a new thread rather than dredge up one from 7 years ago - that way people don't answer the question in the first post instead of your's. GD

The Legacy is FAR easier to work on, more reliable, faster, more comfortable, and has a superior AWD system that is light-years ahead of the primitive Loyale. And EA82's just generally suck. Get the Legacy. GD

Get a 2.5 block. The compression increase is from the use of "small" combustion chamber heads. GD

You don't need the tool. You will not bend the valves. It is ok if they spin. GD

I don't know of any adaptors to use the 3-bolt wheel. Either you will have to make your own adaptor by cutting the splined section out of the stock wheel and then building an adaptor around it - correctly locating the 3-bolt pattern, etc. Seems like a lot of work..... I would get a wheel with the momo/nardi pattern and order a real adaptor made for an EA81 through the japanese yahoo auction I mentioned. I would make Jegs take the wheel back since they advertised an adaptor that didn't exist..... GD

Cat delete is only effective if you can use the extra flow and/or they are clogged/broken, etc. Innefective Bad idea. The stock intake is not in any way a restriction and was already a CAI. You have likely lowered performance with your new intake. Seafoam is also pretty useless. How exactly did you plumb this? It is very easy to disrupt proper PCV flow and foul your oil with unremoved blow-by gasses..... Yes - your mileage is low. Should be about 27. Get a new O2 sensor. GD

Just use the fuel pump assembly from the Outback and wire up your temp sensor. GD

No. Splines are different between EA81/Justy and EA82. GD

The autos are great transmissions - better than any of the 5 speeds. They have the ability to be locked into 50/50 torque distribution (4WD), and the torque converter acts like a low range. To top it off they are also more reliable - no syncro's to grind or input shaft bearings to fail. GD

EGR does not affect mixture. Unplug and cap its vacuum line to eliminate it as a possible problem. I would be looking at the carb and of course you have checked for codes from the ECU right? GD

There is no difference between your '99 Legacy center diff and the WRX center diff. Both are 4Kg units, are 100% interchangeable and are most likely the same part number. Neither are DCCD. Gearing doesn't matter in the least. A FRONT limited slip is another animal entirely and requires a complete tear-down of the transmission and resetting of the R&P lash. No Subaru except the STi 6 speed's has a front limited slip unless it's been added by someone. OBX sells a Torsen type-1 LSD for the front - they are about $400 GD

Yep - lean condition. Either too much air or not enough fuel. GD

The speedo drive-shaft has a lip seal that can only be replaced by splitting the transmission case. The speedo cable may have a seal also so replaceing it may solve the problem in the short term. GD

1. Remove axle nut. 2. Remove roll-pin on inner axle cup. 3. Remove pinch bolt on ball-joint, widen pinch joint by pounding in screwdriver, and lever out the lower control arm with ball-joint attached. 4. Remove axle - should slide out of hub without effort. 5. Re-insert the ball joint into the pinch joint on the knuckle for stability. 6. Pound out the hub from the back side using a large (28mm or so) socket. 7. Remove the rear wheel bearing seal, and the spring clip that holds the outer race in. 8. Remove the inner bearing (falls out) 9. Push out the outer race using the HF FWD set. 10. Push in the new outer race using the HF FWD set. 11. Remove the outer wheel bearing from the hub - using a puller, or bearing seperator, or by cutting it off, etc. 12. Assemble the new bearings to the race and install the outer wheel bearing seal using the HF FWD set. 13. Press the hub into both bearings using the HF FWD set. 14. Press the inner wheel bearing seal into the knuckle using the HF FWD set. 15. Reinstall axle, and reassemble. I omitted the removal of the brake hardware, etc. since you are already that far in obviously. GD

No - removing the hub from the bearings will apply force through the rotating elements of the bearing. That requires their replacement. GD

I think I see what you mean - have the vacuum advance move the plate that the CAS pickup is attached to. It may be possible. Though I would not want to be the guy assigned the task of making it work . The newer MS does boost control, launch control, ignition, etc. I'm pretty sure there is a WB module for it.... or you could always write one What version is the one you have? GD

The hot-wire MAF disty is only an optical crank sensor and nothing more - it has no mechanical advance inside it nor the two-peice shaft that would be require to have the distributor mechanically alter the timing. It might be possible to fit the CAS into the '86 disty body but it surely won't be fun to do it. I understand what you want to do.... but I think it would be easier to just run something like MegaSquirt that would allow you to remap your timing to be "high boost aware" while keeping the whole ignition advance/retard in software where it belongs with EFI . GD

No it is not possible. GD

Replacing it with a used one is not that hard - but could potentially affect your camber and anytime you are installing different components that deal with alignment it is best to have the car aligned to avoid tire wear problems. Removing and installing the *same* knuckle does not pose a great risk if the camber adjustment bolt is properly marked and returned to the exact orientation.... but even that cannot gaurantee proper alignment when you are substituting used parts. Thus a used knuckle is going to breakdown something like this: 1. Used knuckle - $30 to $50 2. Possible ball joint damage (requireing replacment) - $25 3. Possible tie-rod end damage (requireing replacement) - $25 4. Alignment - $75 That's a possible outlay of $175 Now a bearing change OTOH: 1. Wheel bearing - $25 to $35 2. HF FWD bearing adaptors - $110 (can be returned) 3. Used tone-ring - $5 That's about $50 or less assuming you return the HF FWD set after doing the job within the 30 day return or whatever it is. GD

I have a machine shop that I use that does EJ25D long blocks for $1295 with core exchange. No clue about shipping - they are located in Tigard, OR. http://stevesprecisionmachine.com/ GD

Having built, rebuilt, and tuned many, many carbs including Hitachi's, Q-Jets, etc. And having done a blow-through turbo setup using a Weber DGV.... I would say my knowledge of carbs far exceeds most of the people around here. Yes - that's true there is less wireing. You have some good points about them being serviceable with fewer tools.... but reliability is not higher with carbs in general. That's part of why the industry went away from them in the first place. There's many examples of OBD-I EJ22's running around with 300k or more having never replaced a single component of the EFI system. Further - the ECU itself is very reliable and capable of ignoring half the sensors in the system and still run well enough to get you home. Of all the problems that EJ's have - the MPFI system just isn't one of them. Out of all the cars I've worked on (many hundreds) I have replaced about a half dozen coolant temp sensors, and like 1 or 2 faulty idle air control's. Pointing out how simple carbs are to repair is hardly germain to the conversation when you are looking at the EJ MPFI system - it simply doesn't fail and almost never *needs* repair. GD

That's typically how thye work, yes. There is a fuel pump control unit in most of them (except the feedback EA82's) that handles this - it runs the pump for 1.5 seconds then waits for a tach signal to resume pumping. GD

Just weld in a straight pipe. GD

Yep - that's the one. It's used like a hub-tamer or hub-shark to replace the front wheel bearing. Most likely not. In any case the hub itself is simple to remove - you pull the axle and you select a socket that is slightly smaller than the ID of the bearings and you pound the hub out from the back. That is the first step in replaceing the wheel bearing. You need the set above to do the rest of the job though. Breaking it is a bad idea - they are quite flimsy and the tollerance between the tone ring and the sensor is VERY small. Any amount of bending at the breakage point and you will have contact between the two. Similarly cutting it is a bad idea as all cutting operations result in some loss of meterial. You don't want gaps or it will confuse the signal to the ABS computer. GD