GeneralDisorder

All you have to do is have the flywheel ground to a .815" step height. It will then accept the EA82 clutch kit. GD

The pump is self-priming. How long did you run it? It can take a few seconds to pull oil through the new filter. The gauges on these are no kind of accurate either and it's stated in the owners manual that it is normal for them to read 0 when idling. You might have disturbed the wire that runs to the sending unit on the bottom of the pump. It's very near the filter. Check that too. GD

The only difference is the tensioner. You can either swap over to the older tensioner and bracket (more reliable) or buy the 98+ tensioner. Everything else is the same. The idler used by the tensioner is seperate in the older version but is part of the tensioner in the newer version. GD

The splines are not the same. I think they are confused about the one's they have - it is unlikely they have one that will fit a Justy but if so the Justy has the same spline as the EA81. Neither Momo nor Grant still make adaptors for the EA81 - both have been discontinued for years. However - there is a company in Japan that still makes them (for the Momo pattern - which you can get adaptors for the Grant pattern cheaply on ebay). Getting one here in the US is a pain since none of the JDM dealers bring that model over - you have to order one from a Japanese Yahoo auction and pay a third party company to receive it and then ship it to you. It works out to about $75 to get one that way.... I almost did..... But I got one from a board member in The Neatherlands that ordered it through the Yahoo auction and then decided he didn't want to use it - so I ended up paying $35 ($25 in shipping) to have him send me his instead..... GD

The real test of a clutch is to find a good steep hill and do about 25 mph up it - then shift to 4th gear. You should not be able to keep the RPM's up with the clutch pedal released. GD

Time for a new cable - it will break soon if you don't. GD

HG's aren't your problem. They fail in one of two ways - neither of which would involve misfireing. Either they overheat after a short drive, or they leak coolant and oil on the ground externally. That's typical of the automatic's used in '99. My '99 Forester does the same thing. It's the design of the torque converter. Have you changed the ignition components I mentioned yet? I meant no offense to them personally. I just think they are leaving a lot of money on the table by sending people away that have easily solved problems - often "imports" have the same problems as anything else..... Plugs, wires, cap+rotor does the same wonderful tune-up on a Honda or Nissan that it does on a Chevy. Your Subaru is really no different - checking the resistance of the coil pack, inspecting plugs and wires..... these tasks a very much the same as any domestic car. I work the same way in my shop - often I find that people bring me things for which I do not own the proper diagnostic equipment. What I do for them is ask them to have the dealership diagnose the problem and reccomend a repair procedure - which I will then perform at greatly reduced cost. Thus they still get the benefit of the dealer without their high labor prices GD

Pulled the tranny from my '91 sport sedan yesterday. Besides the clutch being down to the rivet heads it also had a massive oil leak from it's PLASTIC seperator plate. A yellow plastic seperator. I've seen the yellow one's before on '95 EJ22's, etc..... My engine came from a '93 or '94 turbo touring wagon. What I'm wondering is...... does this mean it wasn't the original engine in the TTW it came from? Could it have been replaced by the dealer in the mid-90's under warrantee and thus have been an EJ22T block that was produced after they switched to the plastic plates? Or did some late production EJ22T's actually get plastic plates? More of a curiosity question than anything - but I know for a fact that '96 EJ25D's still had the aluminium plates so it seems totally backward to find a plastic one on an engine that ceased to be used in any production vehicle after '94 GD

Yep - easily fixed. About $100 or less for a used center diff. As Gary stated - your mechanic is a voodoo hack - change him too. GD

You mean you have been putting 12v+ to the speed sensor terminal of the ECU? :-\ It takes a duty-signal. It wants a sqaure wave based on vehicle speed. That is availible from the the signal generator inside the speedo head. You just hook the (non black) wire from the generator to the ECU's terminal and the black wire to ground. GD

Yeah - one of those generic one's would likely work. GD

The speed sensor is not something you can solder up with some electronics because it's output depends on vehicle speed - you have to use the speedo head or replace the cable with an electronic speed sending unit from a newer model that will create the proper sqaure-wave duty signal based on vehicle speed. It would probably be best to replace the speedo head or the whole gauge cluster. Simplest solution.... That simulator that's listed for the VW swaps..... I'm not sure how that would work because on the Subaru ECU's the idle speed doesn't return to 750 unless the car is stopped..... among other strange behaviour if you don't have a signal that actually translates to what the car is doing. Easier to just give it what it wants. GD

Heh. Little do they know (obviously), that Subaru's are some of the simplest cars out there to work on. And "domestic's" can be some of the hardest. Can't be too great of a shop if they aren't willing to learn and expand their operation. I find that people who think like that are of a completely different mind-set than what you truely want in a "mechanic" (and I don't even really like that term) - a car is a machine and machines all operated on the same principles. Yes I prefer Subaru's and I steer my customers to them but I can and do work on almost anything. I prefer the term "machinist" - as in someone who builds, repairs, and maintains machines and "is interested in the workings of machines" in general. Doesn't really matter if it's an automobile, a toaster, a compressor, or a milling machine...... it's all the same to me. GD

I think the best way to track this down would be to get live data from the sensor input streams: http://www.surrealmirage.com/vrg3/b10scan/ GD

Yep - that's what you want. You can use the green/red wire to control your second fan or use the stock wireing with the thermoswitch. GD

As a general rule Subaru's don't like anything but NGK or Denso plugs. Sometimes people get away with it but you are generally better off getting the $2 NGK's than anything else. Same goes for wires - LOTS of really poor quality wires out there and Subaru's use a very high voltage spark - it tends to expose insulation weaknesses easily. I have used lots of the NGK wires with good results and of course the ones from the dealer are also fine. If your coil pack is bad - just pickup a used one from a local wrecking yard. They rarely fail so used is the best way to go. Aftermarket is not my first choice but if I were going to try one I think I would just do the cheap ebay one's I've seen - that way not much is lost if it gives up. GD

That's a HUGE mess. Can of worms.... unless you are very experienced with rusty fasteners and repairing what WILL inevitably break durring that process you have a steep learning curve. If it were me - I would probably just drop the tank, fab a new mount ring, and weld it into the tank. If it's that rusty on the top of the tank - I would be looking real close at the rest of the car - it will not be long for this world I should think. How many more years could it logically be kept on the road? Might not be worth the effort - every thing you touch will just snap off in the process of either repairing that fuel pump mount ring or removing the tank..... If it's me - I would just walk away. But then we don't have that level of rediculousness here on the west coast. GD

Since things got worse with your plug/wire combo - make sure you are using NGK plugs and either NGK or OEM wires - other brands of either have proven troublesome. Test your coil pack for sure. Note that there are two coils in there - the primiary side of each should be about 1 Ohm and the secondary side should be about 15 to 20k Ohms for a good, hot spark. P0420 code is related to catalyst effeciency - many things can set it off. GD

That may be a misprint on the warrantee. They are all the same - shouldn't be any difference in grades. GD

My experience - the ECU trips the fan on at around 195 to 200 degree's as registered on my digital laser temp gun. GD

I would use at least a 3 to 5 watt resistor..... that pack of resistors are probably 1/8 watt or 1/4 watt..... might burn them up. I wouldn't leave the pot in place - too much vibration for such an animal. The red/blue wire from the ECU is not the one you use - you need to use the white/red wire coming out of the diode pack to protect the ECU. Or add a diode to the red/blue wire. I'm not sure if you are saying that your's is newer than 94 or? OBD-II would have two fan control wires - one for each fan..... GD

I'm sure it happens - but the failure rate of the OEM thermostat's is very low compared to the aftermarket one's I've used. I've used dozens of OEM thermostat's (made by TAMA Enterprises: http://www.tama-e.co.jp/en/start.html) both from the dealer and from my independant parts supplier that sells the TAMA branded equivilent.....and have seen no out-of-the-box failures. It is also possible, being that these are just stamped sheet metal parts - that it could have been tweaked in shipping or dropped causing it to bind durring it's opening/closing process and thus stick at less than fully open.... BTW - if anyone can find an online supplier of the TAMA branded units I would love to hear about it. I use a lot of these and would love to buy them in large quantities to possibly save some money on them..... alas I haven't found any suppliers other than my local guys and they are basically within $1 of the dealer wholesale price.... GD

You don't need a new transmission - you just need to replace the broken oil pump. That will require removing the transmission and then taking off the front diff section to get at it though. Definitely a bad day. This is something we see frequently with the AT's - people aren't aware of the proper procedure and they kill one every now and then through lack of properly seating the TC and then forcing the engine to bolt up when it doesn't really want to go together. It is very important not to force stuff when assembling mechanical devices. If it's hard to put together then chances are something is not right. It should slide together like it was made to fit.... gaining that patience and the ability to stop and assess the situation before damage occurs is a BIG part of being a professional mechanic. GD

EMPI axles are good quality aftermarket replacements. I've used dozens without any failures. They are about $65, are brand new (no reman parts), and carry a lifetime warrantee. GD