GeneralDisorder

Yep - people have been doing the duty-c mod for years. Well known around here. GD

Relatively easy in the front. Massive fab work in the rear. Not adviseable. Use XT6 rear components. GD

The wire's from the ECU are ground signals for the relay driver coil. On your schematic there it would replace the ground wire going to pin86. GD

Read this thread. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=124305&highlight=wheel+bearing+harbor+freight GD

You need to order the one for a DL - with the pressure switch instead of the GL one with the sending unit. Then you swap over your sending unit. GD

Use an OEM gasket or loctite 518. Aftermarket gaskets are junk. GD

Your oil pump is trashed. Get a new one - about $65 from the dealer. GD

The early Legacy rear diff will bolt right up to the Loyale. They are the same till you get into the female axle stub units in '95 or '96. GD

The second picture is correct. Just invert the clip on the other side. GD

In my experience the pistons seize up on the dual-piston units more commonly. But that could be partially due to them simply having twice as many to fail. GD

The best thing you can do for that car is march down to the dealer and order EVERY coolant hose it uses and replace them all immediately. That is the biggest point of failure and even one overheat can be too many for that engine. It is a troublesome beast and can be very fragile - KNOW the condition of the cooling system by replaceing the weak parts now or suffer the consequences. You have been warned. GD

Actually - "Full Time 4WD" as it applies specifically to the 4EAT which your car has is simply a marketing term indicative of the year it was produced. It is a fully developed AWD system just like any 90 through 2010 4EAT in the Legacy, Impreza, etc. With very few changes that transmission and it's computer has been used since the late 80's starting with the '88 Turbo automatic's. Most of the FT4WD *auto's* did not have the LSD rear diff - but it's easy enough to look for the sticker on the rear diff cover. For general driving the AWD system is FAR superior to the push-button single-range system. Those are 4WD and are locked into 50/50 torque split. Your transmission is "smart" and can transfer anywhere between 80/20 and 50/50 torque to the front and rear wheels depending on conditions. For stricktly off-road purposes it's also a pretty decent combo as it can (at the flip of a switch) lock into true 50/50 4WD simply by cutting the 12v signal to the Duty-C solenoid and causing the clutch pack to fully engage. So yeah - it's quite a bit superior and can do everything the older transmisssion did and more. GD

There are no gaurantee's that something wasn't damaged - typically when an engine is bolted up with a TC not fully seated the transmission oil pump is cracked, broken, or otherwise damaged in the proccess.... I would say that's especially true if the engine was then turned over or even ran when misassembled in that way...... but it also might be ok - and you stand a better chance being that it wouldn't actually start..... There's just no way to tell. You need to completely pull the TC out and inspect the oil pump drive tabs on it and the pump drive-shaft (both ends) and go from there. It will either work fine or the transmission fluid pump will have been damaged and the car simply will not move at all till it's repaired. GD

Is it computer controlled? That's in the era of "feedback" computer controlled carbs and Mitsubishi's are notorious for having computer failures. That's the main reason you don't see older mitsubishi's on the road - I haven't seen a Mighty-Max in years and cars don't rust here. Last one I had anything to do with had a bad ECU (of course) and the dealer wanted an unholy sum of money for a replacement. GD

Just get some calipers from www.rockauto.com The OBW's had the larger brakes for a reason. GD

Any codes? GD

The only issue with that '96 HLA 2.5 is that *technically* it required premium fuel. Though in all likelyhood it hasn't been given that. GD

Drain and fill the ATF 3 times - driving 10 miles between each operation. If that doesn't work - buy a new transfer clutch pack and change it out. GD

Yeah - that engine will not easily work in the Forester. It uses a completely different intake manifold setup and will not plug-and-play with the EJ251's harness. GD

P0183 - Fuel temp sensor P0341 - Cam posistion sensor P0403 - EGR Solenoid (probably the unplugged connector) P1100 - MAF sensor I would say the MAF and Cam sensor's are your biggest problem. The fuel temp thing must be either an actual failure of the sensor or someone swapped in a different ECU that is looking for one and the car doesn't have one. It's down in the tank with the pump and the fuel level sender. EGR is that unplugged connector I'm betting. BTW - any code you get you can just type into google and you'll immediately see what that code refer's to based on what pops up. They are universal codes used by all manufacturers until you get really high up in the numbers and start getting into brand specific codes. None of your's are. GD

The Turbo EA82 (EA82T) is prohibitively expensive to swap and to make it *reliable*. It will cost more than an EJ22 swap and be far less reliable and lower performing. When you get the skills to do the swap you want the EJ22 not the EA82T... here's how it breaks down: EA82T: 115 HP. Complex, primitive, turbo-charged, rare, and unreliable. EJ22: 137 HP. Simple, reliable, and very, very common. EJ25 w/EJ22 heads: ~180 HP. Simple, reliable, easy to build, requires premium fuel. EG33: 230 HP. (It's an EJ22 with two more cylinders). Somewhat rare. Reliable. As for transmissions - you aren't going to find any that are rebuilt and even if you did they would be 4WD transmissions. No one bothers with the 2WD one's. There's shops that will do it but probably not for less than $1500 to $2000. I could rebuild it for you for about $500 labor. You would still have to buy all the parts and likely that would run about $200 to $400 depending on what you need. Used is a better deal usually but those early 2WD 5 speed's weren't that great of a transmission. If you put in an EJ22, or other EJ engine you can use the EJ FWD transmission. Early Legacy's and Impreza's sometimes were 2WD. Fairly rare though. You could also convert your car over to 4WD/AWD. That would open up a lot of options. GD

If you want to cool something - cool your oil. Lowerting the t-stat temp is not going to affect anything - coolant runs through the throttle body and the intake manifold - 20° cooler on the coolant temp will accomplish nothing and cause the SPFI computer to not run the correct mixtures. GD

The stock temp is what you should run - 192° is best for fuel economy and engine longevity. GD

Yep. Don't bother. Huge amount of work for no gain at all. There's a reason we don't go that direction. GD