GeneralDisorder

When I was using one I was bending a lot of Lenz tubing.... here's a chart of the OD with wall thicknesses: http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=3&ved=0CC0QFjAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.lenzinc.com%2Ffiledownload.php%3Ffilename%3Dpdf_4bf3d9eb16f2a.pdf&rct=j&q=lenz%20tubing&ei=hnBATtqeH-HjiAK20b22BQ&usg=AFQjCNF6M02VSraBDtGiuF5pC8OMwKmh7w Our enerpac bender would bend the 1.25" and 1.5" tubing like it was paper - very smooth and never any kinks, etc. Which is just a bit less than 1/8" wall thickness but Lenz tubing is very high quality stuff - 1600 psi working pressure even at 1.5" OD. Does it do bends like a mandrell bender? - no. But it's as good as any non mandrell bent tubing I've seen. But yeah - you can pickup a used one with most of the dies you want.... probably wait around till you spot some used dies on ebay also. And then ebay has a whole selection of Enerpac air-over-hydraulic foot operated pumps that can be added to their benders for about $200 to $300 - making the bending process effortless! The general rule is that when you get into thicker walled stuff.... well they start calling it "pipe". Yes you can buy thick walled tubing..... tubing is always measured on the OD - so that when you talk about tubing you talk about such-and-such OD *and* such-and-such wall thickness - subracting the two gives you the actual ID of the stuff. Pipe on the other hand is measured by ID - so that 1/4" pipe will have a wall thickness of.... well whatever it needs to be. They measure the wall thickness (and thus the OD) of pipe by "Schedule" - which you basically need a freakin chart for because wall thickness depends on ID and changes for every schedule rating..... suffice to say that higher schedule numbers mean thicker walls..... GD

That hose being loose/off wouldn't have caused any damage. That's the thermostatic valve for the IAC. Not the problem. GD

Thanks for the diagrams Bennie - It's wired per your C diagram. A Potentiometer (or Pot for short), is an adjustable resistor - think of your stereo volume knob - what you are turning is a Pot and as you turn it from low to high the signal power is provided with progressively less resistance. You can find them at any electronics store - you just need a 0.5 watt Pot capable of 500 Ohms of resistance. Thus it's resistance is adjustable from 0 Ohms to 500 Ohms. Here's an example for $0.50 online: http://www.surplus-electronics-sales.com/Zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=23&products_id=274 You first wire the Pot in temporarily, and then run the engine till you reach operating temp (fan's cycle if you are using the ECU's fan control) and then set the pot to where the gauge reads what you like. When you have the Pot set where you want it you take a resistance reading across it's terminals with a meter and that's the resistor you buy to shunt your sending unit. Simple right? GD

I kind-of grasp what you mean.... I never mistreat my customers.... I suppose my profit comes at the expense of the guy selling the car cheap because it's broken.... but that's hardly my fault. I'm definitely guilty of taking advantage of a good deal and I'll even sometimes use buying tactics that "help" my posistion. So yeah - if it's Karma you speak of then I'm clean . I've built my business model on being honest and treating people like family. GD

For sure you have 12v to the coil +? How does the distributor check out? Did you get a pulse from the negative side of the coil while cranking? There is no module. And the tach wire doesn't matter for spark. GD

Interesting - It looks like Exedy *does* specify a specific kit for the XT6 now. That was not the case the last time I looked. They have a new website setup and they absorbed or merged with Daikin.... I would be using that one for sure: http://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-15009-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B001B59432 GD's #1 clutch rule - if it doesn't come from Exedy or the Subaru dealership - it will cease to exist if it enters my domain. zzz GD

I often use my pair of long-handled, 45* angled tip, needle nose pliers - they provide a built-in fulcrum..... GD

Have either of you guys considered something a little more professional/industrial from the used market? I used one of these at my last job with great results: http://cgi.ebay.com/ENERPAC-HYDRAULIC-BENDER-3-4-2-INCH-WORKS-GREAT-/260832098601?pt=BI_Pipe_Benders&hash=item3cbacdf929 Here's another: http://cgi.ebay.com/ENERPAC-HYDRAULIC-BENDER-1-1-4-2-INCH-WORKS-GREAT-/280721178734?pt=BI_Pipe_Benders&hash=item415c49406e The Enerpac stuff can be hooked to an electric/air hydraulic pump with a foot control - that's how our's was setup. Made bending tubing really simple..... GD

Unfortunately there is no aftermarket source for the cone washer's. But as Ed noted the junk yard is your friend - they used those same washers from the 70's to '89 on every car they made, and from 90 through 94 on Loyale's. So there should be plenty of them around to have a good supply on hand. GD

The "centering peice" as you call it is less of a centering device and more of a mechanical shaft locking collar. It has a cut in it that allows it to clamp down on the axle shaft - this clamping force is created by the cone shape of the washer as it is driven into the matching cone surface of the hub. Typically what I have seen happen is that the washer and sometimes the hub also have metal worn off of their respective cone shaped mating surfaces - making it impossible for the locking collar to clamp down on the axle shaft. Thus the need for replacement. I have also seen washers with so much damage to the OD that they will not slide smoothely into the hub. And one's where the slit in the side of the washer has been deformed due to chisels and screwdrivers being used on them durring removal. It IS IMPERITIVE that the cone washer and the hub be in excelent condition or the assembly will come loose again and again till the splines inside the hub are ground away. GD

Actually you can't get it through the dealer. If you wanted a "dealer" one you would have to order it through Kent-Moore's Subaru service tool department - they manufacture all the tools the dealers use now. Here's one: http://www.etoolcart.com/subarupinwrenchsocketsu-022.aspx Another: http://shoptoolsshoptools.com/shopexd.asp?id=1156 Yet another: http://www.handsontools.com/SIR-Tools-SU022-Axle-Nut-Socket-for-Subaru_p_19042.html GD

Define "labor resources"...? GD

Unlikely. When I do 2.5 to 2.2 swaps I steam clean the replacement engine before installing it. I also often have to replace parts of the timing belt covers, and of course I reseal everything. Certainly if someone looked at the engine bay of one of my swaps they would probably think as you have that the engine must be almost new - rarely is that the case. Typically the replacements have over 100k on them. Last swap I did the engine had 144k on it and looked brand new. GD

I recently had a chance to try out the resistor mod on the EJ sending unit for a Brat I converted. 270 Ohm resistor shunted to ground from the sending unit is the commonly held value to correct for the EA gauge..... but with a hodge-podge of old and new parts that EA's almost always are - the actual value that will work correctly in each vehicle will NOT be the same. I took it a step farther and bought a 500 Ohm pot to dial in the exact resistance for where I wanted the gauge to read. Sometimes when working with these old parts (gauge, sending unit, etc) things aren't exactly where they ought to be from the factory. Turned out I needed only a 120 Ohm resistor to put the gauge exactly where I wanted it (on the 2nd line up from the bottom). The pot only cost $2 and told me exactly what value I needed to use *for that specific vehicle* to get a perfect gauge reading. I used the ECU's fan control and my laser temp gun to insure that the operating temp was exactly where it ought to be before dialing in the pot and then allowed it to cycle multiple times while watching the needle to see the deflection between fan cut-in and cut-out. Worked great. Figured some folks might like a more accurate gauge and since all the EA cars that are getting swaps are old - the tollerances of the sending units and the gauges and the power/ground supplies are getting a bit loose. The $2 pot test will give you an accurate gauge with no guess-work. GD

Engines are designed to run at specific temps - the steel and aluminium are machined to precise tollerances and engineers have given a lot of thought to thermal expansion rates, etc. Most engine wear occurs durring cold running (startup) because the parts don't fit precisely till they reach their normal operating temp. If you run the engine cold all the time you will cause accelerated wear - in the short term its not a big deal - often folks run with gutted thermostats to prevent overheating in the case of mild head gasket failure. But it's not a permanent solution and it should not be done for nore than a few thousand miles. GD

You did an excelent job with these! I've seen them in person and I must say they look very good. Now you need to streamline the process so you can make them and sell them. GD

No. And you should start your own thread asking such a question. Guessing is useless. Appearance means nothing. The EJ22 can easily run to 300k+ and still run perfect. GD

The bolts are 14mm head. 10mm thread but a very fine machine thread - probably 10mm x 1.0 I always remove them with an impact - never rounded a head off but recently I was pulling the flywheel off an EJ engine and my 1/2" impact snapped the heads right off 4 of them. Never seen that before - I decided to discard all of them just to be safe - I know they are very hard bolts but I talked with some friends of mine and we agreed that this shouldn't happen and they were likely either over-torqued or from a bad batch of bolts. GD

No - the temp sending unit is for the dash gauge and is on the back of the intake manifold. The fan thermo-switch is about 3/4 of the way down on the back side of the passenger radiator tank. GD

They are almost surely Nissan 280ZX Turbo injectors. That's a common swap out on the EA82T. Take a look at a picture of the ZX injectors - they look like yours. Here's a set of 6 on ebay..... I would contact an ebay seller, explain your needs, and see if they will sell you 4. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/81-82-83-Datsun-280Z-TURBO-Fuel-Injectors-/160500451880?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item255e928a28 That crack on the mounting block is insignificant - though they sell those on ebay also. The crack in the pintle cover is probably also not a big issue but you can't tell till you test them. GD

I would say it's slightly harder than the front's if anything. Though I do bearings all the time so neither is any real big deal to me..... but in the rear the bearing assembly all comes out through the backside of the pocket - and there is a big ring nut that if you don't have the special socket for it can be difficult to remove. Otherwise it's about the same. GD

Heh - well actually Dave kept the ski racks and the brush gaurd will be a project for another time. I have a plan for it - don't have the time to fix it right now though. And I *did* replace the core support - drilled out all the spot welds on both frame rails, and removed the crumpled section of the fender-wall on the passenger side as well as the rotten battery tray and welded in a whole new core support so the car is 100% straight - no bondo or filler used - matched up the cut sections, bolted the fenders and skid plate on, and welded it solid. It got a new radiator and a minor tune up as well. Looking under the hood - the only thing you can see is the areas where I welded are a different shade of blue - hell it's an '83 subaru and it doesn't show under the hood so why bother with matching paint? . But yeah - it's as if it were never wrecked at all because all the parts affected by the deer hit have been replaced rather than repaired. It wouldn't have been worth the repair if Dave hadn't donated it to me - he bought a '96 Outback from me to replace it and since he lives 550 miles from me - we met halfway and I got the keys to the '83 for my ride back home. So I am passing it on to Will for the cost of the parts and some labor. Everyone wins! GD

Personally I like the 90 to 94 Legacy models. It's not just about the engine - the engine is a DAMN good design, but the overall quality of the early Legacy's is much higher than the '95+ "cost-cut" models. Though some people prefer the asthetics of the '95+, if you want the best all-around quality it's in the '90 to '94's and probably a '93/'94 is the best choice as they have drivers side airbags and are the newest with probably the fewest miles on them. GD

Bolt a box-wrench to the flywheel using one of the PP bolts - jam the open end of the wrench around the lower bell-housing stud. This will keep it from turning. GD