GeneralDisorder

There's all kinds of confusion. I bet if you ordered them both one would be for a 2WD (200mm). Rockauto's catalog, which carries many brands, shows a lot of cross-over between EA82's and ER27's for pressure plate's and clutch kits. Ultimately they look identical and you can never be quite sure you got what you wanted unless you order the XT6 part number from the dealer. The devious thing is that there may indeed be a legitimate XT6 PP availible through the aftermarket - but how would you tell for sure? GD

You don't need a press . A little creative work with a brass drift and some of the old bearing peices to drive in the new one is all that's required. GD

Well you *don't* have the *same* problem because you have fuel injection and not a carb - you need to start your own thread for your own issue. GD

There is something to be said for defensive driving though. I don't know the situation but I have seen comparitively few accidents where one party wasn't at fault *at all*. There's something to be said for hanging back a ways and letting the scene unfold in front of you. If you are always the guy that is trying to be in first place..... it's going to bite you. 12 years I've been driving and I've had one minor collision with another car and I am willing to admit it was at least partially my fault. GD

That's not true at all - the heat sheilds are there to keep the exhaust heat IN the pipes and to maintain critical exhaust temperature for proper catalytic converter action. Many people have found that their brand new unsheilded "performance" header causes a P0420 catalytic converter effeciency code because they are venting heat to the ambient air through the long unsheilded exhaust runners. Personally I just remove the entire front exhaust header and cat section, find all the loose heat sheilds, and tack weld them to the pipe itself. Then I coat the whole thing in header paint to prevent rust. GD

I really don't know - that's an older version of MS - MSnS is/was kindof a weird spin-off of the MS1 and thus is a bit of a red-headed step-child at this point I think. I would be asking these detailed, outdated model-specific questions over on the MS forums since this is an issue not related to Subaru at all but to a weird, older version of MegaSquirt. GD

This swap is very well documented - try a search and also check out the repair manual forum as there are several write-up's on it. GD

Wow - she plowed...... something!..... HARD. Hope she learned something from that. GD

Check for power to the fan. Check to see that the radiator itself is properly grounded to the core support. Check to see if the thermoswitch in the radiator tank is operational and connected. When the thermoswitch hits the set-point temp it will close the circuit from the fan to ground and the fan will start. GD

Ah indeed. Well hopefully it was starving for fluid, etc. Worth a try for sure. GD

Yes - and inspect all the hoses - there are some difficult one's under the turbo (it's water cooled), and on the manifold, etc. Right - that's the EDIS wheel that he attached to the crank pulley IIRC. You can buy those wheels and he put the EDIS wheel on a Subaru pulley I think. Understandable. I'm sure wherever he is - he is happy that you are going to fix the Brat and carry on his project. GD

I would get all the RTV off. Down to bare metal if you have to. Wire wheel works great, etc. Can you shift it now that the pan is off? GD

I remember his build! Sorry to hear of his passing - he was a real knowledgeable guy. Hope he hasn't been sick all these years that he's been off the board? That was quite a few years ago now that he was active on this board. You might search for his old posts - they should still be here. His board name was 'garner'..... here - I pulled up all the posts he made: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/search.php?searchid=1313161 Hope some of that helps. He hasn't been around here since '05 or '06 it looks like. I would definitely start with the Megasquirt - as I recall he used a Ford EDIS ignition system on it. Check for fuel and spark..... the usual stuff. You should also be aware - for when you get it running again - the EA82T is not a *bad* engine per-se but it has it's limitations and the biggest one is it's cooling system. It's obviously been sitting for a while and you need to make sure the cooling system is in excelent condition - the EA82T doesn't take overheating - the head gaskets are prone to failure and the heads are prone to cracking. Especially the early heads like that '86 engine he used. When you do get it running it's imperitive that you don't overheat it and that you monitor the fuel mixture and exhaust gas temps. Hope that helps. You might have an easier time of making it run if you switched over to a newer type of Megasquirt that has built-in spark control and used an '87+ distributor with a crank angle sensor - that would eliminate the need for the EDIS system and would also allow the MS to control spark timing. GD

I hadn't thought of that..... though on the case of using an EJ transmission I would prefer the better EJ linkage arrangement.... The Brat's linkage (after a bunch of fab work getting it installed) is like shifting a new STi. GD

I'm not entirely sure - you would have to measure it. The Legacy shifter is probably 6 inches farther back. When I put the Legacy shifter mechanism in a Brat recently I had to shorten the whole mechanism by about 1" and that put it in a reasonable location but still at the back of the stock pan opening. In the case of the Brat we were not able to use the stock console - it's too far off. GD

If you follow a few simple rules - pulling the engine is quick and easy. You disconnect everything, put the car on jack-stands, and then you use a bottle jack under the transmission to push the engine out of the cradle. Then you hoist it out with a cherry picker. Installation is the reverse - just leave the transmission jacked up on the bottle jack till you are ready to reinstall. Easily done in about one to two hours. Totally worth the extra time when doing a reseal as it allows you to better clean the head gasket surfaces. Get a cheap engine stand to do the assembly on. GD

Hammering out the dent is a good plan. I think your "mechanic" is on the right path with that reccomendation. Change the fluid (obviously) but then drive it about 10 miles, and change it AGAIN (just a drain and fill of the pan) to get a good percentage of the TC fluid out of there. The electrical issue is strange. I don't know what to make of that - I would say the radio itself must have a malfunction - possibly the power button is screwy and shorting out. GD

Actually they are 5mm x 8mm x 26mm...... http://catalogue.alternatorstarter.com/ComponentPartDetails.aspx?Part=7304-2410&App=N I can't find anyone online that sells them although there is an ebay seller that sells the 7304-2412's ('95+ Subaru alts) for $1.95 each. They may also have the 2410's but you would have to contact them and ask. The other place I saw online wanted a minimum order of $100..... etc. GD

You will need a custom driveline as the AWD tranny is longer or shorter by about 3" (can't remember which). I don't think the Legacy driveline will fit.... The shifter is farther back on the Legacy transmission and more vertical. The Legacy tranny has 25 spline front axle stubs - you will have to use EA82 Turbo 5MT axles. Transmission mounts are entirely different. With some XT6 parts I think you can bolt it up..... or you will have to fabricate. GD

You should have +12v to the positive side of the coil with the ignition on. If you don't find out why. Coil primary winding resistance should be approx. 1 Ohm. Coil secondary winding resistance should be approx. 10k to 15k Ohms. It either winding is out of spec - replace the coil. When you crank the engine you should get a 12v pulse from the negative side of the coil. Use a test light. If you don't get a pulse and the coil is good and properly powered then the distributor has an issue - bad module or wireing. GD

Do the EJ22 swap. You won't regret it. You will find plenty of info in the retrofitting forum. GD

Yeah that true - if it really was a 2.5 swapped out for a 2.2 then it would require the EGR...... but that's only true if this was a legacy GT or Outback..... plain legacy would have been a 2.2 already and wouldn't have the EGR..... Or the bulb could be burned out.... who knows frankly. Too many cooks in the kitchen I suspect. Once you have a car with a swapped engine - who knows what someone did. GD

No that will not work. Subaru and VW engines share virtually nothing in common with one another. And those waterboxer engines were junk besides. GD

I would check resistance on the CTS. Unplugged connector is probably an EGR solenoid by the discription of the location. Swapped engine so that makes sense. GD

You still need a key switch or several toggle switches to turn on and off the accesory and ignition power circuits - besides just the push-button for the starter. And you *should* install a relay to run the starter as well as relays for the accesory and ignition circuits if you are going to do that. Replacing the key switch with a push-button and seperate power circuit switches is not something I would reccomened unless you are well versed in electrical work. That's not a small or particularly simple task. GD