GeneralDisorder

That is where the stock pump is located. On a shelf next to the filter. Put a Weber on it and be done with it. Your issue is a carb issue - accelerator pump probably not working, mixture/idle speed/igntion timing are probably all wrong..... probably have multiple vacuum leaks, etc. If you don't know the Hitachi's very well it's not easy to make them run correctly. I'm in West Linn and I've got lots of EA81 experience if you want to bring it by. I can probably improve it by 300% in a matter of an hour or less. You need to start shopping at the dealership and at a place in Milwaukie called "Discount Import Parts". For plug wires you want NGK and they can get them easily. GD

Probably not an easy fix. You might be able to adjust the reverse band but at that kind of mileage it's probably better to just replace it. Replacement transmission's can be found very cheap for the 2WD's. They are not the same as the 4WD transmission and Subaru stopped making 2WD cars in the US after your model year. So you will have to find one from a '90 to '95 2WD Automatic. GD

You can just replace the one injector that is failing. The code indicates an electrical fault with the injector drive coil. Open or shorted, etc. Typically I just go to the junk yard and get an injector rail with two injectors in it and replace the whole rail. Easier than removing the injectors from the rail. You don't need any "special" tools to do the timing belt - you will need a large c-clamp or very big bench vise to compress the tensioner. GD

Personally I've had great luck with all the EMPI axles I've installed. I get em for about $65 each. Brand new. Not a single failure to report. I've also had very few problems with regreaseing and rebooting axles that aren't making any noises. Your mileage is frankly still pretty low - I would reboot it. And do the job yourself - you can get a boot kit for $15 or less. Another $15 for the pliers to operate the clamps they come with. That's $30, basic hand tools, and an hour or two of your time. It's really quite simple. GD

I'm very surprised it broke at 70k. That's not usual at all. Oil contamination or idler failure? GD

Yes - Napa probably does have a cheap Taiwan-made bearing for $15 - but it will be a plain 6207. It will not be a 6207-2RS-C3. The "-2RS" calls out a double-sealed bearing which will be pre-greased and sealed for life. The "-C3" component calls for an electric motor bearing internal clearance spec. If you simply go to a bearing supplier you will get 5 times the bearing (Japanese or US made) for the same money. You will also save on grease and mess as you need only apply a light grease to the new wheel seals, etc - since the 2RS bearings come pre-greased and sealed. This also provides further protection from the elements. If you really want to never do wheel bearings again - get yourself a set of 7207's and set it up for axial thrust loading. Though you may have to play with shims on the inner race pre-load spacer to get it right. I found that a .001" shim ring on the spacer brought my hub temps right down where I wanted them after a test drive. As far as greasing if you use open bearings - pack each bearing completely full and fill the chamber around the spacer about 1/3. Ideally you want about 1/3 of the chamber filled with grease when it heats up and flows. Too much grease is a bad thing as it doesn't allow for expansion. 1/3 chamber capacity is the standard for bearing greaseing. GD

Don't ask the dealership how to do the job - they just want you to pay them to do it. Yes you SHOULD resurface the flywheel. Cost is typically about $25 to $30. Get your clutch kit from Exedy - Amazon has the best prices. Pull the engine. Much easier than the transmission. GD

You have a grasp of the high/low engagement system, but what you haven't grasped is that the 4WD linkage is completely seperate at the REAR of the transmission. By decoupling the linkage in the way you have - you are able to switch it between high range and low range but you are not taking it out of 4WD. The stock linkage only allows 2WD high, 4WD high, and 4WD low. But in reality it IS possible to be in 2WD low. It's just not availible with the stock linkage setup. The high/low is done at the input shaft - either it's allowed to drive straight through (direct drive) in high range, or it drives through two sets of gear reduction's on a daughter shaft to the input shaft BEFORE any 1 through 5 gear reductions take place. The 4WD engagement system happens AFTER the 1 through 5 gears - essentially the pinion shaft that drives the front diff is either coupled to the rear drive shaft or is it not. These two systems are 100% seperate - you are only operating one of the two systems that is operated by the stock linkage. GD

Cool. Glad it was just a couple wires away from victory. No matter how many of these swaps I do it's always a small victory when they start for the first time . GD

Don't go to a parts store - go to a bearing supplier. Get 2 (two) 6207-2RS-C3 bearings. Yes there are two per knuckle. You should pay about $8 to $12 each for them at a bearing supplier vs. $25 each or so at an auto parts store. These are standard 6k series ball bearings and you can get them anywhere. You will want to go to the parts store for the seals. But those are cheap. GD

You will need a custom single peice driveline made as the overall length of the 5MT is shorter. This will run about $150 to $300 depending on the shop you go to and if you also need u-joints, new inner yoke's, etc. You will need a clutch consisting of the EA81 225mm flywheel resurfaced to .815" step, And a complete EA82 5MT clutch kit. Then you will need a custom transmission cross-member or buy a kit from Jerry (Bratsrus1 here on the board). He does kits for $100 plus shipping that includes modifying your cross-member and your linkage to bolt up to the EA81 body. Other than that - pretty much bolts in, yeah. GD

That solenoid is a pretty common failure though - the salvage one he got could be bad also. DMM would tell you in an instant..... GD

Totally - Grey with black rims. Definitely B. Age 31 GD

Only if you drive it on public roads. He never specified that it's not an off-road only application. In which case DOT regulations do not apply. But yes - it is against FEDERAL law to modify factory emissions equipment. Not that this law is enforceable in any way - but it does exist. GD

If you don't mind 20 mpg running in open loop then by all means leave it off. Pretty much defeats the purpose of fuel injection to have no O2. GD

No reason to not run them other than debris as you noted. The danger is the same as with the EA82.... you just need to carry a big C-clamp to compression the tensioner. The idlers and such all run sealed bearings..... GD

Yes the ECU can sense the load on a driver circuit - that is how it determines when solenoids fail, etc. Thus it can sense the load of a relay driver coil just as it senses a solenoid driver coil. Who knows what the ECU's programming would do without a fuel pump relay present...... Maybe nothing at all but i can tell you that few of us would know because we don't wire them like that! GD

Wire in a 33 Ohm, 5 watt resistor in place of the solenoid. Or any junk yard solenoid that tests to about 30 to 40 ohms. GD

I don't do anything special - I use Redline assembly lube for all engine bearing lubrication needs. I've installed Delta cams and havent had an issue. GD

If you guys don't hook up I'll try to make time to check it out. Give me a buzz if you need to - 503-880-4084. GD

ECU codes? Most likely not a fuel supply issue unless the pump is losing power somehow..... which is possible I suppose given how you claim it's wired. Why is the ECU not controlling the fuel pump relay? Perhaps the ECU is shutting off the injector pulse because it doesn't see a relay coil for the fuel pump - potentially a safety hazard in an accident if the fuel pump should continue to run thus the ECU's software shuts it down..... you haven't got it wired correctly so it could be anything! Get the wireing proper and find out if the ECU has any complaints - it's a self-diagnostic system. GD

I wouldn't worry about it - resurface the heads and put them back on. The mileage is not high enough nor the leakage severe enough to warrant the expense. Subaru exhaust valves exhibit that behavior but remember that the engine cycles very fast - the amount of actual leakage is very, very small - it may seem significant with your leak down tester but at operating speed it's pretty much inconsequential. Filling the chambers with fluid and seeing if they hold it is pretty much standard. That's how I was shown to do it also with industrial compressor's, etc. Though we used a solvent tank in our testing..... GD

Nominal clearance is .010" for exhaust valves. I wouldn't even worry about .008" until the next timeing belt change..... If they are under .008" I typically will make some adjustments but otherwise I just leave them alone. Intakes are a little loose actually as they are supposed to be .008" Remember that each .001" is actually 2.5 shim sizes (measured in hundredths of a mm) - so you have to go down 5 shim sizes to get from .008" to .010" GD

Looks to be an EJ205 w/4EAT in an EA81 chassis that's been "buggyfied". Some things are well done and others look to be a work in progress I would say..... lots of stuff about it that I don't approve of but looks like he's having fun with it . GD

The stock SPFI pump (the one on your Loyale) IS a 50 psi pump, though it is regulated to 21 psi via the throttle body pressure regulator on the SPFI. You can simply crimp the return line and you will see the pump's pressure capability on your test gauge. The 2.5 from that Imp is about a 165 HP engine. I have been involved with higher powered builds using the SPFI pump and have not had a single issue with them keeping up. We currently have a ~200 HP EJ25 in a Brat that is running the SPFI pump without issue. It is possible that your pump is weak but probably not. If fuel pressure is your problem then your fuel pressure regulator on the injector manifold is bad. GD