GeneralDisorder

They are NOT the same and that is why you should take note of which forum your are in before posting. You really think that a fuel injected '95 Legacy is going to act the same as a car a decade older and running a carb? Not likely. In your case, the green connectors are to put the ECU into diagnostic mode. Leave them disconnected as you obviously haven't the tools or knowledge to interpret diagnostic "D-Check" mode. GD

I would say that the green connectors causing your short *normally* should be connected. Probably a short in the switch or someone has monkeyed with the ignition lock, etc. Most of the rest of the connectors you labeled should not be connected to anything - manufacturers build far fewer harnesses than they do cars with different accesories and features - if you have a "feater poor" model then there will be dozens of connectors throughout the harness that are simply not used. For example - at least one or perhaps a couple of the connectors under your column are for pedal switches to disengage cruise control on the gas/brake pedals, or for a kick-down switch on the gas pedal for automatic transmissions. That said - the two single-pin blue's and the single pin green under the column are to reset the EGR reminder light every 60k miles in the gauge cluster. You swap out whichever of the female plugs is currently connected with the one that is not to reset the light for another 60k. In short - don't worry yourself about orphan harness connectors - when you find a DEVICE that is not connected to the harness you can start asking legitimate questions. GD

Get a pressure tester and test the system as well as the cap. Compression tests are useless for head gasket checking....... in fact they are mostly useless in general except to identify a cylinder with a problem *in comparison* to other cylinders and as a general pass/fail check to see if an engine has enough compression to even run. They are highly dependant on too many factors to make their numbers "publishable" on this site or any other. The numbers cannot be compared to any other engine. GD

I *think* the chime is somewhere behind the glove-box or between the glove box and radio area..... somewhere in there. GD

Pluger OUT turns the light on. So the light should be on all the time with the switch dismounted like that. Thus my question about the bulb being burnt..... GD

You need the knuckle. You have to use the seal that matches the axle.... but I can't recall if the seal will fit the knuckle or not. The EA82 seal is too large for the seal surface on the EA81 axle. It will go together but you will not have any inner wheel bearing seal as there will be a large gap. GD

It's a trade off. I get my wire splice locations in different spots than you do. It's all about what gen EJ harness you are using and where it comes through the firewall, etc. I've done exclusively EA81 chassis swaps and I like that I can get tach, and ignition switched power from the old coil wires - I use the ignition switched coil + wire to hot-up my new fuse panel for the EJ harness. The fuel pump I intercept at the connector that goes from the dash harness to the rear body harness at the passenger kick panel. ECU, etc goes in the glove-box where it's high and dry. Only things I get from the cluster area are the start signal, the VSS and the neutral switch if I'm using a clutch switch in place of..... Everything else is in the engine bay and I route the needed wires to labeled terminal strips. This keeps all connections and electronics above or at the level of the air intake.... since most of the one's I've done have been off-road machines in one form or another. GD

Yeah - that's what I'm considering with my t-cased hatch. R180 diffs with male DOJ's for added strength. Just have to find the right combo of joint parts to make them go together. GD

No. You need an Exedy KSB04. Amazon has the best price. About $145 - you aren't going to find a complete kit for much less and if you really cheap out you may regret it's performance. Have the flywheel surfaced - about $25 to $30 at any machine shop - a good shop can do it while you wait. GD

I beleive the MAP is actually part of the TCU's assortment of sensors and it's input is then also routed to the ECU..... the ECU itself has no MAP sensor that is external so if it's not the one on the passenger side strut tower then the ECU must have an internal MAP that is bad. Though I have never seen nor heard of this happening before. GD

Cold, thick gear oil may mask a rear input shaft bearing for a few minutes. It definitely could be the center diff. Replace it and see. GD

That's it - the black switch is the 4WD indicator swith. The Lo range switch is inside the transmission. Are you positive the bulb isn't burnt out? GD

Probably the switch that turns on the key-in-ignition warning chime..... Makes sense because that's a constant-hot circuit. The chime needs to function with the ignition off.... GD

I use a digital caliper most of the time but I use vernier (metric) Mic's. Anything that needs to be measured in tenth's (metric tenth) I don't trust digital unless it's expensive like Starett and Mitutoyo, etc and I've calibrated it against a standard. GD

You have to be aware that if you use EA82 knuckles the inner wheel bearing seal is not the same between the two and must be changed. Tie rod ends will not swap as they are too long on the EA82's. GD

Subaru OEM. Best deal going by far. They are made by Valley. GD

The cowl right behind the hood is the HVAC intake. GD

So you have pulled all the buckets and shims from the heads? Did you mark where they came from? GD

Sounds like either a wheel bearing (unrelated) or the rear input shaft bearing on the tranny. Those often fail. GD

You can easily replace the bearing - most likely the rear input shaft bearing. The syncro's are harder to replace but can be done if you have the right tools. Of course that doesn't make it any easier to install. GD

For the most accuracy you really need a metric Mic. You can convert back and forth but it's a pain. Mitutoyo is my preference for quality and cost. GD

Both will require custom hoses but yes they can be hooked up. GD

IIRC that circuit also feeds to the radio - if you have an aftermarket radio check for poorly wired connections - something may have come loose and is grounding out. GD

Yes - get the short air filter if it's not lifted (about $15 to $20 from EMPI, etc), and add the spacer under the carb. Give the engine a little more ignition advance if it will take it also - 10 degree's, etc. Also if you find a good 2WD distributor (Nippon) the cap has more favorable locations for the wires. With a little thought the plug wire near the choke housing problem is easily solved. If that's all that "He who's name shall not be mentioned" screwed up on your car you are a lucky man! GD

You can swap in the whole transmission from the '98. GD