GeneralDisorder

I always have custom power steering lines made.... the PS system runs at about 600 to 1200 psi on the high pressure side.... best not to F around with pressure's like that. Last set I had made set me back about $75 including hoses, fittings, and welding on matching bits to the hard-lines of each. GD

Better option is to use the male axle DOJ's - they are not hollow like the bolt-in stubs. Much stronger. GD

Was the check engine light and OBD-II port properly hooked up? What, if any, codes does it indicate? Your problem sounds like a sensor issue - CTS, etc. It does not sound fuel pump related to me. The fuel pump is located on a shelf in front of the tank under the car. The pressure regulator is part of the EJ251 and located on the fuel rail after the last injector in the passenger side. GD

The EJ heads rarely crack. Unless I suspected it had happened I wouldn't even bother to check them. My machine shop says about 1 in 100 might have a small crack. Dubious as to if it would even matter. I take the risk of not checking and I've done many dozens of head gaskets and I've never put a head on and found out later it was cracked. GD

That looks great. I always go over the gasket surfaces with a clean shop towel (the blue paper one's) and lacquer thinner and allow to dry immediately before gasket installation. GD

The close proximity of the plug wire can be mitigated by using the Hitachi's phenolic spacer under the adaptor as well as gaskets on either side of it - makes the whole assembly taller. Also the manual choke variant of the Weber fits without interfering with the disty like that at all. GD

Rear fuel filter - often neglected. GD

I agree - check plugs/wires and the coil resistance. You can check to see how much each cylinder is doing at idle simply by pulling the plug wire off. If it makes no difference then you have found a cylinder that is not fireing either due to ignition system issues, lack of fuel (vacuum leak) or lack of compression (valve timing?). GD

Well - there's a couple rules I've found that will help the first-timer with bleeding the new slave. 1. The pedal doesn't fully actuate the MC piston. You can disconnect the MC at the pedal very easily and actuate the piston by hand. Note that you will feel a GREAT deal of resistance and it may feel like you are not even moving it. You have to push HARD. This is how I typically get the first few pumps done because it's the most effective a quickest method to get the pedal operating. 2. The system is unlike a brake system where you can pump it as fast as you like durring bleeding. When bleeding the clutch you should apply steady, even pressure to the pedal on the downstroke (open the bleeder just after you begin to apply pressure) - you have to take "control" of the pedal as it's spring loaded - manhandle it into doing what you want. Just before it bottoms out have your assistant close the bleeder. Then pull the pedal back up off the floor (it will stick there the first few times). Then you WAIT. You must now wait about 20 seconds for the MC to refill it's empty fluid chamber. It sounds weird I know - but if you don't wait for a bit between each stroke and open/close the bleeder at the right times you will spend DAYS trying to get it right. Hope that helps. I had to figure this out the hard way and after doing half a dozen of them I have my *technique* for it now..... but it IS pain in the neck no matter what. I don't think I have done one in under an hour yet. GD

They are just copper washers - I have reused hundreds without issue. If you are really anal about it you can polish the old one's with a peice of glass and some 220 grit. GD

No - that *shouldn't* be able to cause the tail lights to be on. The only thing I can think of is that you got some plugs swapped around under the dash dealing with the lighting system.... GD

Not really - the only benefit is that it's already got the fuel pump in it that you need so you don't have to swap that over or change to FI rated hoses. Otherwise it's the same as any other EJ swap. GD

Where is your EJ harness getting it's power from? What did you touch on the stock harness that might have caused that.... Hard to say. I've never experienced that issue before durring a swap. GD

I think you need to seek some professional assistance with your electrical issue. It sounds as if your wireing is dangerously close to melting either due to high resistance at a connector or because of improperly fused aftermarket wireing..... there's just no way to tell without being there. Your symptoms are not typical. There are board members in your area - reach out and possibly someone can take a look at it that knows their way around a DMM. GD

It's not a direct bolt-in. First, the EA82T is a horrible engine. So bad it should never be swapped *into* anything but a dumpster. Second - it will not bolt up to your transmission because it uses the newer "side-starter" bell-housing as opposed to the top-starter housing of your EA71 and associated tranny. You will have to change the tranny as well. Third it doesn't fit between the frame rails of the EA81 chassis without removing a small area on the driver's side at the rear of the valve cover. You will have to cut out a section of the cross-member and reinforce it to clear the down-pipe, you will have to move the hill-holder, and cut down one of the bleeder screws on the brake master cylinder..... All-around it's a bad idea because it's just as much work as an EJ swap or an SPFI swap and for all your hard work you get a POS engine that makes less power than a non-turbo EJ. LAME. GD

One is for the EA81 manifold, and one is for the EA82 manifold. GD

Interesting indeed - think you could point me to an auction for one of these? Is that a Momo pattern? GD

You can't see down the oil filler - it's twisted around into a strange shape because of the DOHC head arrangement. Look for evidence of driver's side valve cover leaks - the turbo cooks them. Yes they have decent HP - I think it's around 220 or so. They are very "peppy" engines. Not a lot of turbo lag. They used a smaller turbo to keep that to a minimum. MPG will be..... frankly it will be horrible. . If you are looking for a powerful, fun ride - the EJ255 is a great engine for that. If you are looking for mileage - lotsa luck to you. I beleive the rating for them is somewhere around 18 to 24. If you enjoy turbo power you will be lucky to see a consistent 18. Mileage is not why you buy one of these. My '91 2.2 turbo (slightly modified) is lucky to get 16 mpg with the way I tend to drive it. Oh - and besides the crappy mileage you MUST run premium as well. Further sticking it to your wallet. GD

I think what would likely kill a D/R 5MT under the give scenario (200+ HP) is the tendancy for people to get frustrated with the crazy wheel spin and drive it around in 4WD Hi all the time on dry pavement just to prevent the wheel spin and give them that desireable "launch" ability. I agree that if driven with sanity and if the 4WD is only used on slippery surfaces, etc.... probably would be fine for a long time. But "boy racer" here will not drive it like that - he will drive around in 4WD Hi all the time and that will eat up the tranny in short order. 200 HP clutch dumps in 4WD Hi WILL kill the D/R. GD

It really needs to be stressed that if the engine wasn't run with synthetic and regularly maintained - just walk away. The whole turbo return banjo-bolt screen and the AVCS valve banjo-bolt screen issue is just a symptom of poor maintenance and incorrect lubricant. The screen was put there to prevent blown-up turbo bits from getting into the engine - but proved to be more trouble than it was worth because people here in the US don't seem to understand the need for synthetic oils in turbo-charged engines that experience localised high oil temps that cause conventional oils to sludge up and burn. This is the same basic problem with the VW 1.8T (though it's much more widespread and worse on the VW's). I have a customer with an '04 FXT - I just had to clean out the AVCS control solenoid on the driver's side because it was sticking and causing the intake valve timing to not retard properly and the idle was all F'd up. I also replaced a valve cover gasket for her and the inside the of the engine is DISGUSTING at 115k miles. She has all the records of frequent oil changes AT THE DEALER because she bought the car with lifetime lube and oil. But she never popped for the added cost of synthetic and now I'm afraid it's only a matter of time before that turbo and her engine just gets so sludged it up can't lubricate itself anymore. GD

That's the kit I mentioned - its for a two-knob cassette deck. It will not work for a DIN stereo. GD

You've got to take the initiative - if you don't have money then you will have to trade your time, labor, etc to either get some money or barter for parts. The barter system is not dead and you have this forum, craigslist, etc.... you live in a Subaru rich state.... Someone has a derelict Legacy that you can "earn" somehow - you just have to want it badly enough and shout about it loud enough. I have got at least half a dozen cars over the years for dirt cheap - including a 78 wagon for $1, a '92 Legacy for free, '91 Legacy for $200, and an '86 D/R sedan for $100...... ALL of which I DROVE HOME. Why? Mostly because I'm loud, memorable, and people know I like Subaru's and will "rehome" them like lost puppies. Post in the wanted section - make a craigslist posting - make flyers with crayons.... someone has what you want and needs yard work. I've been where you are - barely able to afford the gas to get to work. Somehow I managed to get the parts to get things done. GD

Pass if it wasn't run with synthetic oil and had regular oil changes. Pull a valve cover off - if it's not immaculant inside there just walk away. These have issues with the oil sludging up and destroying turbo's, gunking up the AVCS control solenoids, etc. There's TSB's about this stuff. Don't buy any turbo that doesn't have excelent maintenance records and/or wasn't run with synthetic oil ONLY. GD

You don't need the primer. That's just a copper spray.... .050" is a HUGE gap..... questionable to even use parts that fit that poorly..... think SBC oil pan . For a water pump you are talking about a machined flange against another machined flange. There should be .001" or less gap to fill unless one of the robots was drunk or on strike that day. For the oil pan..... well I hear you on the gap being probably larger there. Probably not much more than .005" in any one place though. I recently used Anaerobic on a Nissan 30DE (300 ZX) oil pan and I've been under it way too much and the oil pan (and everything else for that matter) is perfectly dry. . I would not hessitate to use the anaerobic sealant for an EJ oil pan. I use it for oil seperator plates and such all the time. I have actually completely replaced 100% of the liquid gasket needs on Subaru's with it and it has not failed me yet. I like it because it has an infinite shelf life and won't dry up if you leave the cap off. Plus cleanup is less messy, and it is just generally a friendlier product to use. GD

The sound it makes has everything to do with the exhaust design and much less to do with the actual performance of it. A video just wouldn't do it justice. GD