GeneralDisorder

No one makes a kit for EA81's. You will have to design your own. GD

About 1.5 to 2.5 psi. I think I said that...... You will need a VERY accurate gauge. GD

Ah yes - the 80/81 under-hood pump. It seems like many of these were converted - maybe by the dealer? You may have a weak fuel pump - I've seen a number of those under-hood pump setups that have been replaced. The factory Subaru fuel pumps develop very little pressure (about 1.5 to 2.5 psi) and when they get old..... you might want to check volume and pressure on it. Could be that the filter wasn't the only issue. GD

+1. And most good smith's can make you a key using any of the locks even without the code. I had that done recently on an '86 Mazda. The guy charged me the same $21 he charges for code-cut keys and then $3 for each copy - out the door with 3 new keys for $27. And he also mentioned to me that all Japanese cars have the code on the passenger door lock (I had brought in the trunk lock).... and all Korean cars have no code stamped anywhere . GD

It's a very common swap. I've done half a dozen of them myself. You should be happy you have the more reliable of the two. GD

The DOHC heads of the EJ20T will not fit between the frame rails of the EA81 chassis without modification. You will have to cut and box in the frame rails to clear the heads - it will also be really freakin hard to replace the spark plugs. If you put ~240 HP into a 5MT D/R you will destroy it. They were not meant for that. Besides the fact that this much power into a primarily front wheel drive transmission will make the Brat handle like poo and be very scary to drive. Trust me - I've done it with less power than that and the Brat's suspension (even with aftermarket sway bars on both ends, etc) is not up to the task. AWD is a much better choice - it doesn't load the suspension up like a FWD will and will be much more tame at the 200+ HP levels. GD

Call them and ask - I'm not a smith so I don't remember what the codes look like GD

Huh - that's weird because a friend of mine just did OB struts on his '92 LS and it had the cone shaped springs. We had to hunt down some '93/'94 top hats and used the OB springs on it..... but now that I think about it that car originally had air suspension so I guess it was just a case of what they happned to use to replace it with . GD

Any locksmith can code-cut you a key if you have the code from the passenger door lock. Going rate here for a code cut key is about $20. Keep in mind that someone may have changed the ignition lock. A good smith can re-key the ignition lock to match your door code also. GD

Cool - let us know how it goes for you. Just as an aside - if you pull the engine (and thus the manfiold harness) out of an OBD-II car and then turn on the ignition (to unlock the steering wheel and get the car out of park for example) - the fuel pump will click on and start dumping fuel on the ground till you turn off the key . I've had this happen a couple times to me. GD

Many ways - most of which have already been given to you. 1. Below the power steering pump on the top of the block will be a casting that will either be "EJ22" or "EJ25". This is by far the easiest way to tell. 2. EJ25's are DOHC. EJ22's are SOHC. It should be pretty obvious from the size of the timing belt covers. 3. Post a picture and let us tell you if you are indeed that helpless. GD

That would be a 90 to 94 Legacy trans...... why do you want to know the gear ratio's anyway? It is what it is.... GD

No - if it's for an EA82 it WILL NOT work on a Brat. Brat's have EA81's - completely differenent engine. You shouldn't beleive everything they say on ebay. Get the Fel-Pro head gaskets (Autozone, Rockauto, etc). BUY EVERYTHING ELSE FROM THE DEALER. There is no suitable alternative. Trust me. GD

There are grounds on the manifold side of the harness that may be important for ECU operation, etc. If you didn't have a manifold hooked to the harness - it will do strange things with the fuel pump. GD

Yeah - Ohms is resistance. I would have to look at my FSM to know what the resistance should be but it's going to depend on oil pressure which will depend on temperature and engine speed..... GD

Ah - excelent pictures. I've never seen one discolored that badly. Very informative. I always wondered what the outward signs of failure on one would be and I assumed it would be discolored from heat like that. Incidentally - based on the color that it turned - we can assume the temps were approaching 300* Celcius which is around 575* F. No wonder the guts are cooked . GD

Test light will work but it's not ideal for this kind of a problem since you can't accurately test the resistance of the sending unit. GD

Should have a filter/vapor seperator just to the inboard side of the driver's side strut tower. These only exist through 1984 (and through '87 Brat's and '89 Hatchbacks) - EA82's only have a single filter. GD

You will have to check the wire for voltage under those various circumstances - unplug the sending unit and check for power to that wire with a multi-meter, etc. GD

Personally I've had bad luck with junk yard struts on the EJ cars - the rear's are almost always blown and the front's are usually not in great shape either. Unless you find a gem where the struts have all been replaced. I've always heard that you need to use the Outback springs as well for full effect - which on the early first gen's (90 through 92 at least) means you need '93/'94 top-hats for the rear's as the early one's used cone shaped springs and not the conical shaped units that the later models had. GD

There is a short somewhere in the circuit - when the gauge jumps to 75 it means the lead from the sending unit is grounded. I would disconnect the sending unit and see if it still jumps to 75 with the key on..... could be a short internally in the sender though I've never seen one act that way. GD

Yeah - it actually doesn't look bad if you just make it *all* chrome. GD

Yeah - it actually doesn't look bad if you just make it *all* chrome. GD

Yeah..... what the heck happened? Kind of an unusual occurance for a 1500+ post count member to get banned isn't it? GD

Idle vibration in drive with the auto's is almost always the rear transmission mount. Very common. You can swap that coil out but it won't make any difference - those numbers are just fine and will fire the plugs all day long. General rule of thumb with coils is that the primary side is about 1 ohm and the secondary is about 10k to 15k ohms. You are easily within any reasonable spec - and the fact that it runs and your problem is at *idle* means it's not an ignition problem - if you were having weak spark you would experience a loss of ignition durring hard acceleration when cylinder pressure's are highest and would tend to prevent a weak spark from jumping the plug gap. P0420 code is from bad sensors, bad cat's, exhaust leaks, rotten/missing heat sheilds, or aftermarket headers without head sheilds. You have to keep the exhaust gasses AND the heat inside the system or the cats just won't work at full effeciency. GD