GeneralDisorder

You will have to check the wire for voltage under those various circumstances - unplug the sending unit and check for power to that wire with a multi-meter, etc. GD

Personally I've had bad luck with junk yard struts on the EJ cars - the rear's are almost always blown and the front's are usually not in great shape either. Unless you find a gem where the struts have all been replaced. I've always heard that you need to use the Outback springs as well for full effect - which on the early first gen's (90 through 92 at least) means you need '93/'94 top-hats for the rear's as the early one's used cone shaped springs and not the conical shaped units that the later models had. GD

There is a short somewhere in the circuit - when the gauge jumps to 75 it means the lead from the sending unit is grounded. I would disconnect the sending unit and see if it still jumps to 75 with the key on..... could be a short internally in the sender though I've never seen one act that way. GD

Yeah - it actually doesn't look bad if you just make it *all* chrome. GD

Yeah - it actually doesn't look bad if you just make it *all* chrome. GD

Yeah..... what the heck happened? Kind of an unusual occurance for a 1500+ post count member to get banned isn't it? GD

Idle vibration in drive with the auto's is almost always the rear transmission mount. Very common. You can swap that coil out but it won't make any difference - those numbers are just fine and will fire the plugs all day long. General rule of thumb with coils is that the primary side is about 1 ohm and the secondary is about 10k to 15k ohms. You are easily within any reasonable spec - and the fact that it runs and your problem is at *idle* means it's not an ignition problem - if you were having weak spark you would experience a loss of ignition durring hard acceleration when cylinder pressure's are highest and would tend to prevent a weak spark from jumping the plug gap. P0420 code is from bad sensors, bad cat's, exhaust leaks, rotten/missing heat sheilds, or aftermarket headers without head sheilds. You have to keep the exhaust gasses AND the heat inside the system or the cats just won't work at full effeciency. GD

You are going to want to put a heat sheild between the turbo and that steering joint and also wrap the turbo in a blanket and wrap the down-pipe. Otherwise you will cook that steering joint for sure. Temps near the turbo can easily hit 1600 *F and you will destroy the grease and little rubber seals inside the joint if you don't protect it. GD

Which is why a smart operation would put anything they snatch into a faraday cage for transport and dissasembly. GD

They all have the newer style tensioner in them Gary? GD

Being a '97 it would have the piston style tensioner - we don't typically replace those. They almost never fail. Tension is not really an issue since it's hydraulically controlled - there is nothing you can do about it. It is what it is. As long as you pry the tensioner fully to the left before locking it down and pulling the pin - you should be good. GD

I really don't know - I've never owned an SVX or wrenched on that portion of one..... Ask Turbone - he might know. GD

Your method does not guarantee proper input shaft alignment. You may choose to do it that way and it may work for you. That's fine. Many of us prefer to have more precise and immutable alignment between the two entities using the dowel pin locations provided on each. That is our choice. You have made your point clear. But it is the *opinion* of myself and probably many of the mods here as well as the members that your method is dangerous to preace to others as they may not utilize the concept correctly or with enough degree of accuracy based on your small, single sentance description to effectively accomplish a mating of EA and EJ components that will not result in damage to one or both. It is very likely that your poor communication skill and your personal attacks will in fact get your banned (again). Perhaps you can create a post or a web page somewhere that details this concept more fully - the how's and the why's - in order to show that it works and is safe - if it is and if that's possible to do so. GD

You have a wireing problem. GD

The whole assembly is wider and will not just bolt on. You will have to do some welding and fabricating to make it work. GD

It's carbon. All engines do that. GD

The pitch stopper is always a fabricated beast. And it depends highly on what body the adaptor plate will be used on. The studs don't need to be any specific length - just measure how thick the bell-housing of the engine or tranny (whichever is applicable for the hole) is at that point and make it about 1.25" to 1.5" longer to account for the thickness of the adaptor plate and enough extra to thread on a washer/nut combo. GD

Not to my knowledge. GD

I have used dozens and dozens of the ebay kit seals and haven't had a single failure. I use anaerobic sealant on the water pump - no gasket. Same for the seperator plate. Not a single failure to report. GD

By my estimate I have installed at least two dozen of the mizumoauto kits. I have not had a single failure or complaint. And that goes for their Honda kits as well. I buy enough parts to know what's quality and what isn't. I inspect each and every part for fitment and proper operatation before I hang it. I don't have failures. The one issue with the mizumoauto kits that I forgot to mention is that on the older style tensioner idler (the piston style used through '97) the bushing that goes through the idler and provides the eccentric for the idler is too short and thus is too tight once installed - not allowing the idler to rotate properly. This is not really an issue though since you just use the bushing from the old idler - they aren't a wear item. Beyond that and a single shipping error I have had no problems at all. I know that one of their kits I installed is approaching it's 60k interval on a '91 Legacy. The owner drives 160 miles a day and has racked up over 50k on the mizumoauto kit without incident. End of the day - they run just fine and save my customers money. That's what it's all about. I will continue to diligently inspect every component durring installation and if I find a problem or if I see a premature failure on any of the components be assured I will post here about it. GD

I get the EMPI boots for $12 each locally. So $24 for a single axle - $48 for both front axles vs. about $130 for two brand new EMPI axles. I don't reboot them very often unless they it's obviously a recent failure and the axle is otherwise sound. GD

Did I stutter? . NO GASKET. GD

You don't have to resurface the block nor do you have to pull the engine. This is about a $200 repair with all the seals, gaskets, timing belts, and resurfacing costs. Putting in a new motor because of a HG failure is silly. GD

To get 14" tires you will need 14" wheels - easier said than done on the 4x140mm stock lug pattern I'm afraid. Best option is to convert to 6 lug and then you can run a variety of Toyota and chevy truck rims, etc. GD

The ebay belts are fine for the DOHC. Use Anaerobic for the water pump - throw the gasket away. GD