GeneralDisorder

Belt is usually fine - the oil runs down behind the covers. Cam seal, crank seal, or PS pump. GD

Cam seal. GD

Yeah - if you are pulling the transmission then it can be done at that time. GD

The lower nut on the starter (or bolt for 99+) can be a pain though usually is no trouble with a deep socket and 6" extension. Just get far enough back to clear the body of the starter. The biggest pain is the driver's side lower bell-housing nut. They are often REDICULOUSLY tight and are directly in front of the axle. Often I have to use 24" of extension, a wobbly (or wobbly socket), reducer from 1/2" to 3/8" and a 1/2" breaker bar to get them loose. So you are going to pull the engine twice? Seems like a bad plan. Exedy KSB04 is $145 with free shipping on Amazon...... yes they sell the alignment tool seperate - probably $4 or so. I don't use much RTV anymore.... personally I find that for the water pump and oil seperator plate the Loctite 518 or Permatex Anaerobic (red death we call it) works better and lasts longer. The lifter buckets may fall out when you remove the cams. Just be careful and note which one's go where. Razor blades, brown scotch-brite, and lacquer thinner. Craftsman will work fine. GD

Needs stickied..... GD

What do you mean by "check engine light" - you mean the "ECS" light? If that's the case then you have a feedback carb and it's located directly under the steering column - bolted to it in fact. They are not simple or easy to work with so I would advise just unplugging it and putting on a Weber or SPFI. GD

Actually I just went though this in my garage - unfortunately what you want to do will be impossible. The stubs are c-cliped in and while they will pry right out of the diff - they are not the same for right vs. left!! The passenger side is a normal stub but the driver's side stub has an extra, smaller diamter, splined section on the end of it that engages the LSD components - none of the newer axle's have this additional "early LSD" right side stub on the end of them - thus you could install them but the LSD would not function and the c-clip groove would not be in the correct place to snap into the diff - leading to the axle floating out of the diff and causing gear oil leakage. GD

Ok - unless it's a CA model it will not have an ECU. It's a carb - plain and simple and gutless. It will be a Hitachi DCP-306-XXX variant (26/30mm primary venturi's). Best replaced with a Weber 32/36 or converted to Fuel Injection using the SPFI system from the '87+ EA82's (and some '86 2WD's). Sounds like the idle speed may need to be adjusted. There's a screw for this on the Hitachi - it's on the throttle cable side - look and you will find it. It's a long one with a spring under it. Why do you think the thermostat is incorrect? GD

A customer of mine's Nephew had his '95 White Legacy Wagon (OR plate # VGP 365) stolen today. It's also his Birthday so please keep an eye out for suspicious folks in a '95 wagon. More info as it's given to me..... I'm told it doesn't have any identifying damage, stickers, or seat covers, etc..... which obviously makes it hard to spot. But someone likely to steal a '95 Legacy wagon probably isn't smart enough to swap the plates out. Just hoping for a happier birthday for the guy.... any leads greatly appreciated! Thanks, GD

EA81 or EA82? GD

First of all we need to know if this is an EA81 (a *true* hatch) or an EA82 (technically called the "three-door coupe")? Pictures would be best..... GD

Yes - the slave cylinder is the thing you loosened the bleeder screw on. If it's working just leave it alone. You will not enjoy the process of completely bleeding it and replacing the fluid. If the slave cylinder is getting weak it may cause the pedal to be mushy, stick to the floor and have to be pulled up with your hand or foot, or cause dragging of the clutch which can lead to hot-spots on the flywheel/PP and cause studdering durring engagement. Your model/year is part of a TSB about weak slave cylinders. If you have any of the above symptoms you need to replace the slave, the hose from the MC to the slave, and the copper washers on either side of the hose banjo fitting. GD

It gets better after you have done a few and know what to expect. Usually takes me less than 2 hours. I would have returned that flawed bolt to HF - they are good about stuff like that. For the record mine was not flawed in any way - though I have managed to tear up the washers that go under the bolt head..... but such is the fate of washers and I will procure replacements when neccesary. Good job! Glad it worked out for you. GD

Watch yourself - they are very, very tricky to bleed properly. GD

That all depends - how far down the rabbit hole do you want to go? Easy answer is no - not using the EA81T's computer. It does not understand the hot-wire MAF system. Now if you go to the EA82 hot-wire MAF computer you have other issues - like injector and throttle body fitment, Idle control, etc. If you go stand-alone like MegaSquirt then you can do whatever you like using whatever parts you like. Which is actually a much better option than trying to use an entire system from one year or another so a stock ECU can run it - this way you can pick and choose the best parts from all the years or the parts that will fit with the least complications IE: injectors in the heads vs. in the manifold, etc. GD

Only space the rear. The front is used for mixture control. They are the same sensor - but with different wireing connectors. Front is triangular, rear is sqaure. Rear for your car is a front for a 90 to 94.... how I know all this is and retain it is beyond me.... The code is probably related not to the UEL itself - but the fact that it has no heat sheilds and is longer on some of the runners - causing the exhaust gas temp to drop at the cat and thus not catalize effeciently. You can wrap the header to prevent the escape of heat and possibly get the cat working again.... or you can just punch the guts of it out and run a sensor spacer for $8 GD

It's not that simple - generally only the drivers side fan runs when the car hits the ECU's threshold. If the temp continues to climb the ECU should turn on the second fan but it depends on the programming and that changed from year to year I've noticed........ So it could be that you have a partially clogged radiator and the clogged portion is where the running fan wants to pull air.... did you wait and see if the second fan turns on? OBD-II (95+) ECU's have seperate fan control leads for #1 (driver's side) and #2 fans..... there are two fan relays in the fuse panel under the hood. You can swap them and see if the #2 relay will run the #1 fan. GD

You clearly need a new front sensor since it's reading rich, and you can space the rear one out of the exhaust stream with a non-fouler. A resistor will not work as the signal voltage is very low and frequently oscillates - it's a sine wave and you can't effectively modify the signal in a meaningful way without a sophisticated digital conversion and then a PWM signal generator. GD

You will have to remove the rocker assembly to get the cams out anyway. If you can get a solid lifter assembly you might as well use it. The intake just bolts on - if you can get a "flat" one from a later EJ22 - they improved the design. I don't know how to tell the versions - I would guess if it came from a '94 it's an early one since the Imp. (and the EJ18 too) only came out in the states in '93. I think the valve seats only have a single angle. I don't beleive they have a multi-angle grind by default. GD

You need a set of torque cams from Delta. That will move the power down the curve. Talk to them, but I think they are the same as the EJ22 cams. I know the heads are the same. Also - find yourself a rocker arm assembly from a '97 or '98 EJ22 - solid lifters will free up HP. A '97 or '98 EJ22 intake will also flow better. Wouldn't hurt to get one of those too. GD

That's a viscous LSD (VLSD) diff - They either have internal snap rings or e-clips. Remove the back cover and inspect. GD

A proper installation uses a harness adaptor that allows you to leave the stock harness alone - every Subaru since 1990 uses the same harness plug for the stereo and the adaptor is sold almost everywhere for about $10. This takes the guesswork and stupidity out of the equation - you use the adaptor harness, the supplied harness from the stereo manufacturer and you solder/heat-shrink the like-colored wires together. That's all there is to it. As far as tapping into wireing harnesses - well there's certainly things you need to know and knowledge that is important to have.... but there's nothing really unusual about how they use electricity. I've done a LOT of automotive electrical work including entire fuel injected engine transplants, etc. Before that I wired control panels, motors, and VFD's, etc for industrial machinery. Electicity is goverened by rules and if you follow them properly there's nothing to fear about an automotive wireing harness. GD

Yes - if it's not a mount issue then the next step is the syncro's or the little spring loaded keeper's found under them that "snap" them into and out of gear.... not a problem that is economically fixed as the main and pinion shafts have to be completely dissasembled to get at most of the syncro's. GD

They are the same from 90 through 99.... well known because of the EJ25 to EJ22 swaps that people have done. Same goes for the ECU's CTS. GD

Temp gauge sending unit, etc. Close enough to the formal name. I have a number of those kicking around on spare cross-over's I've collected. Paypal me $10 and I'll send you one. GD