GeneralDisorder

You can't bolt-up the pressure plate with the disc turned around. EJ flywheels being built flat like they are..... the spring pack is too thick. It just won't go together that way. The spring pack must be in the cavity provided by the pressure plate. I've done a few GM clutches...... I don't doubt that it could be assembled backwards - especially by the typical Chevy owner GD

Change both the front and rear fuel filters. GD

Normal. You don't actually even need to do the second 180 most of the time. Loose is loose. GD

Entirely uneccesary as the inner joint is easily dissasembled by removing the retaining wire with a screwdriver. Beating on joints with hammers is not a wise move. GD

The outer joint doesn't come apart. You have to do everything by dissasembling the inner joint. http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/axle_rebuilding.html GD

Virtually no other manufacturer competes with Subaru in tests like that. There are vehicles out there that can - Audi has quite a few. But not at the price point that Subaru offers. If build quality, traction, reasonable size and fuel economy, and affordable price are what you want - you really don't have any other choice. As many others will state - when it snows around here - Subaru's are one of the few things moving *effectively* with almost no chance of getting stuck if you aren't totally stupid with your driving. I relish those days - I love passing the 4WD Volvo's/BMW's and trucks/SUV's in my '91 Sport Sedan. I just find it hilariously ironic that I can go anywhere in snow/ice with my low, sporty, turbo and just wave at all the suckers who are stuck. I live in an "affluent" neighborhood or at least very near to one and It's not uncommon to see Masarati's and other very high end vehicles - so when it snows it's just a mess of stuck BMW's, 2WD Audi's, and tons of SUV's with gigantic rims and summer tires . GD

These are AWESOME! My post on the install with pictures, etc: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=114042 GD

If you think that $400 is a lot of money - you probably shouldn't be considering doing an EJ swap into your ride. Here's how it breaks down: EJ22 + wireing harness: ~$500 Doesn't really matter if you buy a junk car for it's engine and harness or buy one from a dismantler/junk yard. That's about the going rate. Sometimes you find stuff cheaper but you usually get what you pay for. I bought a good 22 two days ago with a 6 month warrantee for a customer of mine - $450. Timing belt kit, seals, gaskets, and other neccesities to prep the engine for install: ~$250 Having the harness stripped (assuming you can't do it yourself since most people here can't): $250 That's $1000 just for the engine and the harness to make it run. Add in the adpator kit, new clutch, custom exhaust, and all the other bits and peices you will need because you don't have a shed full of Subaru parts like myself and a few others around here - you won't get the job done (as in running and driving as a reliable daily driver) for less than $2000 to $2500 - assuming you can do all the labor yourself and have the ability to fabricate as needed. So are you prepared to spend $2000 on a car that's worth $600 when you could just sell it and buy a Legacy - installl some outback struts/springs, and with the same adaptor kits and a little fab work install a 5 speed D/R from an '80s GL? And no - you won't find much as far as used conversion kits. Sometimes they come along but you will just have to watch and wait. Might take a year or a couple years to find one and even then you will pay $200 or more. You should easily be able to go out an earn $200 in less time than it would take to wait around for a used set. GD

Just get a new timing belt and put it on. The engine you have is non-interferance and will not have been damaged by skipping a few teeth on the timing belt. Check to make sure the cam pulley(s) aren't bent from the impact. Good idea to replace the idlers, cam/crank seals, and water pump at the same time. You can get complete kits with all the parts for about $100 including shipping from ebay. GD

The non-fouler trick WILL work. The only time it doesn't work is if you have bad sensors or major exhaust leaks. Anything new enought to be flashed can have the code "tuned" out as Jacob sugests above - this is a good alternative but in most cases costs more than the non-fouler unless you can flash the ECU yourself. GD

They can't be installed backwards. Don't worry about that GD

Just to verify the assumption that there is a clutch problem and that the pressure plate isn't being pushed far enough - rig something between the slave piston and the fork to get it to push farther and see if the problem goes away. Also - have you or anyone else checked the end-play on the crank? I recently had to return an EJ22 I bought for a job because it had over .040" of end-play (service limit is .010" and nominal is around .005"). This could cause the crank and the entire flywheel/clutch assembly to move forward away from the release bearing. If it were me at this stage of the game..... I'm checking crank end-play, fork and pivot ball part numbers vs. slave/MC parts, and then I'm putting in a verified thickness flywheel, brand new exedy clutch kit, and making damn sure I don't have to open it up again. GD

If it shifts fine with the engine off but is hard to get into gear with engine running - you surely have a clutch issue. Is the fork pivot ball threaded into the correct boss on the tranny for the fork/slave being used - is the fork correct for the slave? Was the flywheel turned too thin thus moving the assembly too far toward the engine? I hope you figure it out man.... GD

On the Imp the lines run under the head (actually attached to the head on the hard-lines) and thus seem to get hard and crack sooner than the Legacy lines. 135k is about right for that failure on the Imp. GD

The updated gaskets are unlikely to leak. Probably will last the life of the engine. I've done quite a few of these and I haven't had a single problem yet. In fact I've never had a head gasket blow that I've replaced. It's all about attention to detail. GD

Yes. That's perfectly fine. GD

The bearing looking object in that kit is the lip seal for the pump shaft. The kits do not include bearings. It is a sealed, pre-greased, 6202 bearing. The industry standard nomenclature for which is 6207-2RS. Anything other than that is manufacturer specific and thus not useful when ordering bearings. GD

You don't shop at parts stores for bearings......:-\ The pump uses a 6202-2RS bearing (later pumps use a 6203). They are less than $5 from any bearing supplier. They are NOT included in the reseal kit anyway. NAPA does have them listed as alternator bearings (which is totally stupid because a 6k series bearing is just a bearing - fits millions of things) but the price is typically higher than a bearing supplier. GD

Back of the engine behind the flywheel/flexplate. It is only accesible with the engine out. The plastic one's always leak. GD

Echo? I just said that GD

The stock fuel pump puts out ok pressure for the Weber. If anything it's a little low so a pressure regulator won't help a bit. Generally I run them without a return line to get as much pressure from the wimpy pumps as possible. GD

Well..... have you done much bearing work? Have you ever done a drive axle on the car? Doing a wheel bearing is like a hot-dog - you have to do a drive axle job (the bun) to start and end the bearing job (the dog) because the bearings are only accesible with the axle out of the knuckle. The books will tell you that you cannot do either one (the axle or the bearing) because they require a press and special adaptors. This is NOT true. The axle can be removed from the bearings relatively easily using a decent sized hammer and a block of wood, etc to prevent damage to the threads. Once the axle is out of the knuckle the bearings can be drifted out using a large brass punch, etc. Then the knuckle cleaned and inspected and new bearings drifted in. Making sure never to apply force to the new bearings through their rolling elements. The seals are then replaced and the axle reinstalled. If you need help you could bring it up to my shop - will probably be a couple hours (give or take - unknown condition car to me) plus the parts to change out the bearings. I happen to have some bearings here even. GD

It won't damage the hub on the EA's - that's something that can happen on the EJ's. Typically on the EA's one of the two bearings starts making terrible noises and the other one is still fine. Get a pair of 6207-2RS bearings from McGuire, and some new seals (though I often reuse the seals when I do them), and change out the bearings. Only takes an hour or so - pull the knuckle, drift them out, and drive in the new ones. GD

All the one's I've seen have been #4, but they have all been solid-lifter engines. Depending on the cause of the burned valve..... if it's lean injector related then #3 makes more sense because it's the last injector and the most likely to be lean (or more lean than the other's). If the valve lash has closed up and the valve hung open then it could technically happen on any cylinder. Both of the one's I have seen have been #4 exhaust valves though. A leak-down check will show immediately where the loss of compression is going. Put the cylinder at TDC on the comp. stroke and run compressed air into the cylinder - if it's all escaping from the exhaust then you know where your problem lies..... or just pull the head since it really doesn't matter what is wrong - it has to come apart anyway. GD

You can put dimes under them if you like. It is sometimes done for cam regrinds due to the design of the EA82 cams and carriers. GD