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GeneralDisorder

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  1. GeneralDisorder
    The O2 is used for part-throttle cruise, and idle. It cannot be used for WOT, or acceleration. Just the nature of the sensor. It will throw a code and can cause the ECU to do funny things as it goes into "limp mode" when it experiences failures. The system can never enter closed-loop operation with a bad or missing O2. Your mileage will decrese in a big way..... long story short - use the O2 sensor. A replacement single-wire unit is only about $25 GD
  2. GeneralDisorder

    1) Grey 14 pin connector with red and black wire rolled up, labeled 10 amp switched- what does this connect to/plug in to?

     

    2) what connects to: yellow 9 pin connector?

    green connector with blue wire?

    green connector with black+red wire?

    3) what is the single black wire that splits in to 2 with tape wrapped on end?

     

    All of the above are diagnostic connectors. The green connectors are plugged together to put the ECU in D-Check mode, the grey and yellow connectors are for the Subaru Select Monitor (SSM) - it's a dealer tool that provides more functionality than the OBD port and also interfaces to the ABS computer, TCU, SRS, etc. The taped up black wires are factory ground pins that are provided to be inserted into the grey connector to put the system into certain test modes. The rolled up wire is the power for the SSM port. You can hook it up if you like or just leave it alone - it will run either way.

  3. GeneralDisorder

    4) Where is the black+red wire that runs to neutral safety? As it is now there is only one green+black wire that is labeled "neutral switch".

     

    That is the neutral switch - it's on the side of the transmission on the manual tranny's. It's a single wire that is either grouded or not grounded depending on if it's in gear or not.

     

    5) The black "tach signal" wire is power for the tach?

     

    Yes - that is the tach signal for the gauge.

  4. GeneralDisorder

    6) which posts do fan relay 1 & 2 go to, respectively?

     

    They control the fan relays if you choose to install some. You can use the EA's fan control system if you like instead of the ECU's fan controls. I leave them in so you have the choice. They are merely ground signals to close a relay - you can find the EA's fan relay and use #1 on it. EA's don't typically have a second electric fan so you would have to install one and a relay for the ECU to control.

     

    7) 15a start/run needs to be spliced to ignition switch, correct?

     

    No. It needs to be fed from a 15A fuse that is hot when the switch is in start and run. I sugest using a relay closed by the wire that used to feed 12v to the ignition coil on the EA. That can then feed a fuse block where you have the 15A fuse for the ECU, the 10A for the SSM port, and another 15A for your secondary fan, etc. Painless wireing products makes the fuse panels I use. They come with relay controls, etc

  5. GeneralDisorder

    8) starter signal goes where?

     

    One of the 6 pins on the ignition switch connector will be hot ONLY while cranking. That is the start signal. It tells the ECU the engine is being cranked and to adjust fuel and timing accordingly for a quick start at the low RPM of cranking.

     

    9) big black wire with eyelet gets grounded?

     

    Yes - any of the black wires with eyelets are grounds and should find a home under the hood.

     

    Thanks Rick,

     

    No problem - good luck.

     

    -Frank

  6. GeneralDisorder
    You won't find plastic plates till late '95 and '96. Even the EJ25D's from '96 had the aluminium plate. EJ22's used plastic starting in '95. All your's will be fine. GD
  7. GeneralDisorder
    You probably won't be able to tell the difference between old and new and in any case looking at the belt doesn't tell you if the water pump, idlers, tensioner, or seals were replaced. With a 105k mileage belt it is frankly a stupid idea to not replace that stuff because it is unlikely to go till 210k before failing. But people do it all the time to get off cheap and Subaru doesn't actually say those components need to be replaced so of course people are skeptical when the dealer or shop reccomends it. The unromantic truth is that no matter what's been done - if there are no records of it - you have to assume it was done poorly or not at all. Thus that needs to be considered into the price. I always explain that to sellers when I'm looking to buy. If they don't have paperwork then I have to assume it needs it - thus I'm going to need $500 (or whatever) off the asking price to account for that...... frankly you shouldn't have to be removing covers on other people's cars to check for maintenance they should have paperwork on. It's her fault for not keeping the records now she's going to pay the price. GD
  8. GeneralDisorder
    You likely need a new oil pump, and the cam carrier o-rings replaced at a minimum to knock out the TOD for good. It might also require new/reman lifters as well as the pressure relief springs in the cam spray bar banjo fittings. It is very seldom that a repair in a bottle will fix TOD for any decent length of time. Usually it comes back very shortly. GD
  9. GeneralDisorder
    I buy their kits and install their supplied (brown - probably Buna-n) seals all the time. If properly installed with a proper tool (hard to do on a Honda being transverse) they are just fine. I have probably installed several DOZEN of these kits and not a single complaint. On the Subaru kits they always supply 4 cam seals (rubberized outer metal ring) even on the SOHC engines so I have a monster baggy of extra cam seals for the occasional installation mishap . Parts suppliers are only half the equation - it's up to the mechanic installing the parts to judge their fitness for use and their quality. Mizumoauto has always supplied me with Japanese bearing idlers and decent quality water pumps, seals, and belts. I ALWAYS tell everone what quality of parts they are getting and under NO circumstances are the parts to be allowed to run past the next timing belt change. With the price of the "kit" it's a no-brainer to just replace all the parts every single time. Knock on wood..... but I have had exactly one shipping mistake through them - sent me an incorrect idler. They promptly sent me the correct one without question and I sent back their mistake. I for one see no problem with their kits - perhaps the problem is with their "Honda" kits. Which I will take note of - though I have installed two of their Honda 4 cylinder kits - also without incident. So I have to wonder what happened here. It is the poor mechanic that blames his tools or his parts..... GD
  10. GeneralDisorder
    Keep putting oil in it for now, and plan on checking out the rings and/or valve stem seals with a leak-down test, etc. GD
  11. GeneralDisorder
    Because the resistor is made from coils of nichrome wire and without the cooling effect of the airflow from the vent duct it would rapidly overheat and fail. GD
  12. GeneralDisorder
    That's because SOA only orders half a dozen units at a time from Japan and only when the current stock is entirely depleted. We have seen this with EA81 oil pumps for example. Sometimes have to wait a couple weeks for the stock to be refilled from Japan. When no more of the valves are left in the country they will order 6 of them from Japan and they will be out of stock till more arrive. GD
  13. GeneralDisorder
    I use theimportexperts, and mizumoauto on ebay and haven't had a problem with their (brown) seals. I also buy from a local parts house that does a lot of OEM brand parts..... in any case I haven't had a single problem with any of the seals I've installed. GD
  14. GeneralDisorder
    You are posting in someone's thread and in the wrong forum. Please make a new thread in the "new generation" forum. GD
  15. GeneralDisorder
    Well that's the tricky part and probably why more people here go through MWE than buy the EMPI's - you have to find an EMPI dealer in your area or online. I am lucky that I have a really excelent independant parts store that specializes in VW's (but does all "imports") and carries everything EMPI offers. I also shop there so much they know me by name and have graced me with a business account so I get amazing deals. I think the last EMPI axle I bought for a Honda was $55 GD
  16. GeneralDisorder
    I don't know what your schedule is like, but I have a good friend and customer that brings his rigs to me from Olympia. If you want to bring it down to the Portland area..... EA81's are a specialty of mine and I'm sure I could get you fixed up and on the right path. GD
  17. GeneralDisorder
    I know MWE is highly regarded, but I haven't had any problems with EMPI axles thus I have never gone through MWE because EMPI is cheaper, brand new, and warrantied through my local parts house. I also routinely rebuild/reboot OEM axles with excelent results. Look for the one's with green painted joints - those are the NTN factory axles. GD
  18. GeneralDisorder
    I almost exclusively use EMPI axles - including the custom axles we made for the frankenbrat - EMPI EA81 axles with 25 spline EJ inner joints (also EMPI). Haven't had a single issue with them. I've lost a boot on one that's in my hatch after a couple years (it's stock height) but that's it. They run me about $60 to $65 per axle, are brand new, and carry a lifetime warrantee. GD
  19. GeneralDisorder
    I agree. Not an issue for EJ's. GD
  20. GeneralDisorder
    They didn't replace the idlers, tensioner, or water pump for that price. There's very little chance that you will make it another 105k without one of them failing. The dealership should have reccomended they be replaced. GD
  21. GeneralDisorder
    '97'/98 will work, yes. '99 through '01 will not as those are phase-II engines. There is no differences other than the exhaust port layout and lifter type on any of the EJ22 heads from '90 to '98. They all have the same size valves and the same size combustion chambers - what changed on the '97+ is the pistons. GD
  22. GeneralDisorder
    Any cost savings (which is minimal I assure you - I do EJ timing belts all the time and the kits are $120 to $250 depending on year), is entirely eaten by the added labor to change the timing belt on a transverse engine. Newer Toy's (including the Camry I beleive) do have interferance engines. The reality is that they have more effecient combustion chambers. It's a trade off on some level I suppose but if properly maintained (a whopping TWO whole times in the life of the average car!) it's simply not an issue. They don't just break out of the blue. GD
  23. GeneralDisorder
    The reality is that Subaru went to interferance designs precisely because their belt system (if properly maintained every 105k) is extremely reliable. Buy what you like - avoid the EJ25D unless you plan on swapping in an EJ22, etc. Interferance vs. non shouldn't be a factor - replace the belt/idlers/water pump/seals on whatever you buy immediately. GD
  24. GeneralDisorder
    You run a compression check on that cylinder? Listen to the injector with a stethescope? Swap injectors or the whole fuel rail to rule it out? GD
  25. GeneralDisorder
    I think the Z cars used R180's and R200's.... it's the 510 coupes and sedans (wagons were solid axle) that people use the Subaru diffs for. GD
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