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GeneralDisorder

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Everything posted by GeneralDisorder

  1. Likely due to unrestricted exhaust. At this point you either need to restrict it, or port the wastegate till you solve the boost creep. GD
  2. We use Amsoil OE in everything. It exceeds all the specs for every Subaru year and model (conventional auto. CVT uses a different Amsoil) so we don't have to carry multiple products. GD
  3. We use them all the time on the turbo cars and other applications. I like the Radium Engineering and the Deatschwerks offerings. The EJ's use standard GM fuel pressure of 43.5 psi with vacuum/boost reference. GD
  4. It's not uncommon to encounter mounting points that are open to cooling jackets. On Chevy Small Blocks for instance, ALL the water pump mounting holes, and ALL the head bolts are open to the cooling jackets.... by design. That's just how the castings are made. So you apply sealer. Most guys use Permatex teflon thread sealant. When that is even troublesome there are some things like the Subaru Coolant Conditioner that can help seal them from the inside. It works a LOT better than you expect it to. GD
  5. Welcome to modern cars (and appliances and just about every other consumer product). Large quantities of poorly designed electronics, built by the lowest bidder, programmed in India, and released while they are still in beta because if it's a big enough safety issue they can just issue an "update". But if it's not a big issue - the engineers and programmers can't be troubled to go back and work on last years product - they are already being pushed to get the next model year out of Alpha so they can release that one in Beta as well. GD
  6. You will gain absolutely nothing (not even a negligible amount) from a muffler on an NA engine. You will not lose anything either. The best argument for an aftermarket setup is that it will be stainless. Beyond that and of course fixing the damaged/rotted stock part, it's a complete waste of time. GD
  7. Subaru, and every other manufacturer, is in the business of selling NEW cars. They aren't trying to obsolete their older products anymore that any other car maker. Which is to say they would love you to buy a new one and scrap that old POS. GD
  8. It's a return spring. You attach it to something so it closes the throttle. What could possibly by simpler!? GD
  9. Cleaning them requires using brake cleaner and scraping the elements with a pocket screwdriver. Spraying the weak sauce "maf" cleaner will typically do nothing at all. There is a layer of dirt on them and it needs to be mechanically removed. I have about an 80% success rate with cleaning the Denso MAF's. GD
  10. We use the Ford F150 frame rail EFI pumps for replacement on the GL/Loyale EFI. Much cheaper and don't have that damper bulb that leaks. GD
  11. All they are is a flat metal blade jumper that connects the two pins. You can just hook the wires together in the harness and it will shut off the code. GD
  12. What's wrong with the control arms? Get urethane bushings and some new ball joints. Super Pro makes the one's we use. KYB or Subaru for struts. Subaru for strut tops. Use your VIN number to lookup the parts. GD
  13. Depends. 2005+ Legacy rear bearings are bolt-in. Impreza did not get any bolt-in bearings front or rear till 2008. I couldn't tell you what will interchange without model information and in any case it's easy to lookup the parts on parts.subaru.com and check the interchange. GD
  14. Patrick can make them. They had them listed last I checked. We just received one a few months ago. GD
  15. Warm idle should be closer to 3 grams. That's probably the source of the positive fuel trim. GD
  16. Fuel trims in the positive 20 range would indicate a possible vacuum leak. Also make absolutely SURE that the air box is properly snapped together - both the lower and the upper if you have them, and that the air filter(s) aren't creating weird flow through the MAF, etc by collapsing if they are the cheap FRAM style replacements. Factory filters have rigid frames for a reason. Check that the vacuum line routing - especially to the MAP sensor and the MAP sensor switching solenoid, is correct as specified on the emissions sticker. GD
  17. A 97 Brighton is a $500 on a good day. With frame damage it's toast. Just scrap it or buy another that needs the engine or trans from it. GD
  18. Could be a limp mode. Hard to say if it would zero the fuel trims. I wouldn't think so but the programming on a lot of those older ECU's wasn't that great so it's entirely possible, Can't say I've noticed the fuel trims when inspecting a knock sensor code. GD
  19. Fuel trims ought to be negative with a zero mV reading from the O2. Are you sure it was up to operating temp and in closed loop when you checked it out? GD
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