GeneralDisorder

Blown turbo. It's throwing oil and coolant into the exhaust and explains your lack of boost. GD

What he really meant by "that's it" is the R&P setup process. Changing the gears to another set is trivial (open case, put in gears!) by comparison to what must be done after they are in the case - setting the clearances between the two is not something that most people are trained to do or really have the time/patience/equipment to undertake. GD

Also - the pump doesn't run unless you are cranking the engine or the engine is running. You won't have any power to the pump with just the key turned on. Could be the belt or something else but you have to check power while cranking. GD

You'll have to get under the dash and find out why it's not pushing on the clutch master cylinder. Something has run-afoul between the pedal and the master cylinder rod I would guess. GD

Just leave it alone. If you want a turbo then go buy one that's already got it. You don't just "install" a turbo. The whole engine has to be replaced with a turbo version. There is no easy way to do that unless you buy a wrecked WRX, etc and install the whole drivetrain. The EJ22T is not an OBD-II (95+) engine and will not work easily in your car. The last year of production on it was '94. It's also not a powerful engine without modification. It makes 165 HP to your 135. Changing the whole drivetrain for 30 HP is kindof a waste. If you really want more power - look into the frankenmotor swap - using a 2.5 bottom end under your existing heads, intake, and electronics. It's about 180 to 200 HP and no turbo is needed. The cap which you refer to is on the back of the passenger side head? That's where the distributor goes for versions of that engine sold in countries where a carburetor is installed instead of the fuel injection - South America, parts of Europe, etc. GD

Depends on the type of driving you do. Wheel bearings on Subaru's (with the exception of some specific models that have had problems - SVX, early Forester/Impreza, etc) tend to last a long time. 200k is not at all uncommon. Spirited driving and lots of hard cornering can take it's toll and end their life early - also it could be that a number of bearings in the shipment used for the knuckles on your car was dropped and thus shortened their life..... bearings are very sensitive to handling and thus it's not uncommon to see a car that has a premature bearing failure subsequently have more of the same bearings fail - they probably were from the same shipment to the manufacturer and some shipping monkey dropped a whole box of them. That is supposed to invalidate their use but often "mistakes" like that will go unreported for fear of job loss, punishment, etc. GD

Typically the risk outweighs the cost savings. A new radiator runs about $100 to $150 or so. Used is going to run about $50 plus core..... give or take. The problem is that it's likely a 15 year old radiator and the plastic tanks tend to fail long before the core does - usually splitting and cracking from age, etc. Also you have to "gamble" on some junkyard's speculation that the radiator is in good shape or really roll the dice if it's a u-pull-it style yard where you have to inspect and judge the part yourself. Then you figure entry fee, environmental fee, your time, etc..... it's just not really viable unless you are flat broke and you have to take the risk. GD

Waste of time. The recalled alt part number at the dealer is only $65 and you will get new brushes, rectifier, and bearings. Also, replace your belts when they get hard and squeal instead of tightening the hell out of them and blowing all the accesory bearings. GD

It's the bracket that supports the end of the mustache bar that holds up the front of the diff. It's bolted to the body with a couple of 8mm bolts and then a large 12mm bolt that goes through the rubber bushing mount of the mustache bar. It was bent such that the metal ring that supports the mustache bar rubber bushing was actually touching the mount - causing a knocking noise and vibration due to the metal-on-metal contact that was bypassing the rubber bushing mount. Removed the bracket, Hammered it straight on the anvil, and reinstalled. No big deal really - finding it was the biggest chore. GD

Those are both diagnostic connectors and should remain unplugged. Green is for D-Check mode and Black is for Read Memory mode. GD

I agree - the gauges ARE sold seperately (from the dealer) and the temp gauge itself is no more than $75 or so. As noted it's about 20 minutes to pull the cluster and about an hour total to swap out the gauge. Your mechanic is a hack and has no idea what he's doing. Instead of actually finding out what the procedure is and THEN quoting you a price he's just assuming it's a horrible job and would take many hours. He also isn't properly diagnosing the cooling system. I noted that it takes about 30 seconds to get a resistance reading from the gauge sender...... You are being ripped off. GD

ECS stands for emissions control system. Means you had a computer controlled Hitachi before you swapped to the Weber. The computer is mad that it doesn't see it's duty solenoids, etc. I pretty much figured you didn't have power to the choke. That's not uncommon with installations where people aren't familair with carbs. Thus the high idle and rich mixture. GD

Yes it can be done. It's not that difficult in fact. Need transmission, clutch, pedal assembly, entire rear end, and driveline..... Rings at 68k? Very unlikely. Sounds like an old-man diagnosis to me. These engines go 300k and still don't need rings. Unless some very abusive maintenance/driving took place - this is highly unlikely. GD

What I did was cut the outer race from an old 6207 in half and weld it back together (this shrank it so it fits without interferance into the knuckle) and then welded a pipe nipple to it and threaded a pipe cap onto it. I use it to either press the bearings in on my press or more typically to knock them in with a dead-blow. The fit is not that tight and they go in easily if you insure there is no burrs or imperfections in the bearing pocket. Don't forget the spacer! GD

Intersting - well I hope it stays unstuck and doesn't fall out again like that. I wouldn't have gone with all that fancy additive junk. Oil is best left as it comes out of the bottle. An ATF flush (or 10 ) might have done some good. I'm just not a fan of additives that get left in the oil long-term. That engine has such an extreme varnish/sludge problem that I might have been tempted to flush it with deisel or kerosene..... though I would be afraid of what would come loose from the rings, etc in the process or if they would even want to seal after that. GD

This is VERY simple to diagnose. Check the temp with a gun and then check the resistance reading of the gauge sending unit on the coolant cross-over. If it's where it's supposed to be then the gauge is bad. If the resistance is too low for the reading taken by the gun then the sender is bad. If the cooling fans cycle on, then off and the temp is stable - it's not overheating. Period. The fans are controlled by the ECU via it's temp sender. The gauge and it's sending unit are completely seperate entities and are occasionally prone to failure. Also '96 in particular has known problems with corrosion or loose screws on the back of the gauge cluster causing incorrect readings. You need a new mechanic. This should take about 30 seconds to diagnose. GD

They dont jet them any different. All 32/36 carbs, regardless of application, come with "base" jetting - 140/140 mains, 170/160 air correctors, and 50/50 idle jets. Typically this jetting is fine - usually EA82's will want a 60 or 65 primary idle jet but that is all I change. I have put a wideband O2 on several of them and the base jetting is excelent. No reason it shouldn't pass emissions. By setup I mean your adjustments - idle speed/mixture, choke setting, and ignition timing. I'm not talking about jetting. GD

Yes that does seem a good idea - what part number did you use for your 2-wire replacement? I imagine any generic 2 wire sensor would work so it's down to cost and ease of install.... GD

Either the cam is flat or the valves are carboned up and unable to close. With the oil varnish in that thing..... your best bet is to tear it down or find a replacement. There's no easy fix for that - your engine has suffered obvious and serious abuse to end up in that state. These engines are known for their reliability and the failure you have is not at all common. GD

Yep - you need inner axle joints from a 90 to 94 Legacy - or the whole axles. All the EJ axles are pretty much the same length. Differences do exist but they are very small and won't cause issues. GD

No - you don't put anything on the bolt holes. Go around them. And no beads - just squirt it on your finger and "ice" the flange like a cake. GD

There is a fast-idle cam associated with the choke - if the choke is not fully warmed before attempting to set the idle you will not get anywhere because the fast idle cam will prevent the throttle plate from closing completely. Could also be why it's so rich. When running rich the exhaust temps drop and in association with a cat that is farther back it could lead to inneficient catalyst action..... but it's hard to say since your carb is setup all wrong. GD

I wouldn't try to make a "bead" of thickness "x" or anything like that. It's very deceptive how much "sqeeze out" you will get from a 1/4" bead.... it will be obscene. . The better method is to create a uniform thickness "layer" evenly spread across the mating surface of the pan. RTV is best used by spreading it with your finger - like buttering toast. You don't leave the butter in a big glop in the middle do you? No - because you need to know that you have enough to cover the surface and not too much. That's the purpose of spreading it out. Personally I've been using a lot more loctite 518/permatex anearobic than I have RTV and it's treating me very well. It's not as messy as RTV and won't cure except in the absense of oxygen. Torque the pan bolts to 6-8 ft/lbs. That's always worked well for me. I use an inch-pounds wrench on them. GD