GeneralDisorder

Heh - that's not to say that I haven't used a speedi-sleeve a time or two - mostly on SBC crank's and in my former life as an industrial machinery tech. There's one on the crank in my truck right now in fact. Those 1960's seals tend to create big, nasty grooves crankshafts when they go hard. GD

The speedo drive gear/shaft/seal is not serviceable from outside the transmission. You would have to remove the tranny and dissasemble it. Not worth doing with a 4 speed. Just replace it with a 5 speed. GD

I almost always use a screwdriver to pull seals. I have yet to damage a shaft doing so. It's all about technique. If you don't know what you are doing then find someone that does. There are seals and seal locations where a seal puller will not work - and yeah I've used self-tapper's and such and even a few fancy german seal pulling specialty tools in the Audi world. Screwdriver is still my mainstay seal pulling tool. Done properly it will not leave a mark on a shaft. All too often people are pulling seals with the "wrong technique" and blame the tool when in the hands of a pro the tool is not at fault. And in most cases unless the shaft is really torn to peices - you can just dress the sharp edges of the gouges from a poorly placed screwdriver removal and it will be fine. A bit of work with a points file and/or a peice of sharpening stone will work wonders. When a quality seal is subsequently installed straight and true it will be unlikely to leak to any significant degree. Most seal failures I see are from crooked seal installation. GD

Just use a clutch kit for a '98 2.5 RS. That will give you what you need and the best possible clamping force. Best brand is OEM - Exedy is second. Exedy is usually cheapest off Amazon lately. GD

5th is accessible from the back of the transmission without splitting the case. However I doubt it will be easy to remove the driven gear from the secondary shaft without a press. It's keyed to the shaft but it's still an interferance fit and will not come off easily. Besides that it's very close to the large rear secondary shaft bearing and the clearance there for prying insturments is small - plus large amounts of prying force could damage the bearing...... And you can't do much heating to the gears or your could destroy their delicate temper. I wouldn't attempt it or if I did I would know when to give up and split the case. It's not that hard to do once you are at that level of dissasembly anyway - just split it, pull the shaft out and press the gear off. Then while you are at it replace the primary shaft's rear bearing - they are always the first to fail. Get the 10-ball bearing for a turbo tranny. The input shaft gear will come off without a fight. Just don't lose any of the syncro bits. Also be aware that you are in delicate territory as to what will fit what.... the '99 transmission went through a big redesign and I highly doubt that the driven 5th gear will have the same woodruf key size as the '95 tranny. I ran into a difference in the key sizes between a '95 STi tranny (JDM) and a '98 Legacy transmission causing me to have to use the whole driven shaft in order to get the 5th gear. I put all the STi components onto the Legacy shaft.... it's possible that even more things are differerent betweeen the '95 and '99 transmissions you have - they have a completely different center diff section and possibly incompatible internals. Be very careful what you get yourself into. I have had to make custom shaft keys when doing things like you are talking about. If you don't have machine shop abilities and equipment - better to just leave it to the pro's. GD

That's airbox foam sealing tape that's getting eaten by the HVAC squirrel cage fan. Pull the fan and motor (behind glove-box) and remove the debris from the fan blades. GD

I concur - sounds like bad u-joints in the driveline. They will often go silent when in 4WD but will clunk around quite a bit when in 2WD. Just change the u-joint. They are about $25. GD

You can't drill that with normal bits - you would need carbide to cut a spring steel pin. You are better off just cutting the material away on the joint cup to allow the pin enough movement to be pulled free. GD

Your cable is probably routed over the steering linkage or heater core hoses. it should be under both or premature failure will result. GD

Pressure test the system, replace thermostat, radiator cap, and coolant and any suspect hoses. Your problem is either one of those or a head gasket. Do the easy stuff first. GD

You might have a bad pump - they only get power while cranking or running. Check for power to the FPCU bolted to the hood release cable bracket next to the driver's left knee. GD

Turbo's use a different core support to accommidate their radiator. GD

Won't work. GD

The pickup tube/screen has fallen off the pump. Pull the pump/sending unit out and fix it. The jet pump is not likely the problem and in any case you have to drop the tank to get to it. GD

Most of the time the only solution is new oil pump, lifters, and cam carrier seals. Rick

When the Weber's are setup correctly and the timing is right, etc they will not diesel. The plastic bit that melted is a silencer for the Air Injection System. You need to block the AIS valve's inlet pipe with a quarter inserted into the valve body or weld up the pipe coming from the spacer under the head. The reed inside the valve has broken as is letting raw exhaust though into your engine bay - which is neither healthy nor safe. GD

I agree. Stripped hub splines. Put it in gear (2wd) and then let out the clutch and watch the axle nuts on the front. The one with the stripped hub will be spinning..... GD

Accerator pump could be shot - passages partially clogged, incorrect timeing, poorly working vacuum advance, worn throttle shafts, etc. Many things can cause a lean condtion when transistioning from the idle circuit to the primary circuit. Probably best to check timing and advance operating - do a tune up with plugs and wires, and then rebuild the carb. GD

#2 is where you *should* have tapped into the tach signal and the fuel pump power supply lead for the SPFI's harness. It's the easiest place to access those. GD

The frankenmotor brat had a genuine Subaru XT6 clutch plate and about 190 HP going into a standard 5 speed D/R and never had any issues. As i said you won't get a true XT6 plate unless you get it from the dealer. The aftermarket are just EA82 plates and they suck. GD

You mean a Sport Sedan or Turbo Touring Wagon (SS/TTW). Yes you can but you need one from a '92, '93, or '94. A '91 will not fit. GD

I don't think anyone local does - I've thought about having some cut but I don't have my own mill yet and so no easy way to locate all the holes accurately or a jig setup to do it. I have a couple adaptors if you want to copy one but they aren't for sale at the moment. You just need a chunk of 1/2" plate aluminium and a jig-saw... then transfer punch the holes and carefully punch them with a drill press. The flywheel is easily done with a die grinder and a carbide burr. When/if I go into production of them I'll have the plates water jet cut and then mill all the holes oversized into a jig plate and insert drill guides. Then I'll be able to punch them out for about $75 a pop. When I find a deal on a bridgeport that is... GD

The only way you will get a *true* XT6 pressure plate is to buy it at the dealer. All the aftermarket one's are just EA82 clutch kits with the same pressure plate, etc (cross-reference the part numbers if you like - I already did). Unfortunately the OEM one's are about $160 for *just* the pressure plate.... but you can't beat them for holding power. GD

If we decide to do that then we will reinforce the strut tower area and add a slotting system that can accurately adjust the camber via a series of holes. GD

You use NON "NS" 75w90 for a rear LSD. The NS means it does not have the clutch type LSD additve. You could add it of course but that would be silly. That's why the NS works so well in the Subaru transmissions - it doesn't have the LSD additive that is detrimental to our syncro operation. GD