GeneralDisorder

You already have a cold air intake - the stock airbox draws air from the wheel well. GD

Have done a visual check for spark? I've seen an ignitor die in this very way - only half the coil pack will fire. Done a compression check? If you have fuel and spark.... either the valve timing is off or there's not enough compression..... GD

More affordable maybe - but it won't have as much power potential. Subaru's are not setup for RWD - the transmission can't handle it for long because the transfer gears will fail at the back.... they aren't setup for it. Making it AWD can be done - would be a ton of fun of course - but unless you have about $10,000 to throw at it over the next couple years (WRX front clip's aren't real cheap for one) then it's not going to be feasible. GD

When I couldn't get into 2nd gear on a Legacy I refurbed it was the gears themselves - they had stripped all the teeth off and jammed up the engagement dogs. It wouldn't even try to go in. Transmission was shot - tons of metal. I would just pull it - easier to work on. You'll probably find the tranny is toast - they just don't last and a replacement is the best option. GD

On my sport sedan the turbo headers are very much like the borla-style UEL headers and with a 3" straight-through exhaust from the turbo-back it has a nice mean sound to it. There's a resonator in the mid-pipe and then the "muffler" is a 3" ID glass-pack style unit. It's a beast and I love the way it sounds. GD

Might need a new clutch cable or something. Sounds like the trans is shot. GD

Hhhhhmmm - I don't know about the vented rotor bit. I've swapped from solid to vented on the EA81's (my '83 hatch most recently - late last year) and did not have to change the hubs. New pads, etc and everything works perfect..... But I also thought I have swapped back and forth with hubs and didn't notice the differernce that Gloyale mentioned.... but perhaps I missed that. Seems like the hole for the cotter pin wouldn't line up with the castle nut if it was that far off..... GD

The cone-washer is grooved up and destroyed. Get a new one and a replacement hub. It's a mechanical shaft locking system and will not work if damaged. GD

It's about $80 per cam give or take. So the DOHC's would be about $320.... as I said give or take. GD

I use the 6 ton's when I do tranny's. Don't get anything smaller. Typically I have to use a block of wood on my shop jack for the last extra bit of height needed to do a tranny. GD

How much is "a good amount" of money in your opinion? GD

Long term the R-134 will leak out of the hoses and seals. There are several replacements for R-12 that are made from a hydrocarbon blend that is environmentally acceptable and will not leak out of the R-12 systems. It is doubtful that any of the automotive HVAC places will still have R-12. It is still availible with a license and is often sitting around in bottles at commercial and industrial refrigeration houses - because many of those systems still use it. It can be recovered and reused from lots of old refrigerators, etc. If you need some you can find an HVAC guy that does it on the side off craigslist and have him bottle up some R12 from an old (working) fridge or freezer you could find on craigslist for $20 or less - often free for the hauling. Appliances like refrigerators have POUNDS of R12 in them. More than enough for a couple Subaru's. GD

Fluid is never a bad call - unless what you drain out looks like "glitter pen" or has a whole "prize package" in it with big hunks of metal and mount-everest on the drain plug. Actually the FT4WD tranny is very little different from the AWD tranny with respect to the input shaft bearing arrangement. I would chalk up the lack of failures on the XT6 transmissions to either a superior input shaft bearing or to fewer of those transmissions in the wild from which to draw significant failure reports..... but I bet it uses the "10 ball" input shaft bearing that is used on the EJ turbo 5MT's instead of the "6 ball" that is used in the NA variants. More balls = better shaft support and less load per ball. GD

I'm thinking we need a shifter boot from a Loyale - one of the push-button one's that mounts right to the floor. And we fix the hole to match the size of the boot.... maybe more of the diamond plate. Should work out well I think...... GD

Good luck with the swap. Many (dozens) come here and say they are going to do stuff like that and few actually do. It's a lot more complex than most people realize. I put a frankenmotor in a Brat for a fellow member - it's about 190 HP give or take - which is 40 HP less than a 205. It's got so much power that the chassis had been permanently deformed and the doors don't close right anymore. It's very fast - as fast as an EJ20 WRX in a straight line we figure. The power to weight is favorable... but it's no kind of safe with that much power. The suspension and brakes are both sketchy above 85 MPH. What you want to do is possible - but if you have to ask "how" then you probably don't have the background or skills to do it. The 205 heads will not easily fit between the frame rails and you'll have to pull the engine out to change the spark plugs or even remove a plug wire . GD

The hitch mounts with some big bolts into the frame and on the tow-hooks - they come with the hitch typically. The one's I've installed have required the rear "under bumper" be cut in specific ways for proper mounting. GD

Surfacing is typically fine and more economical (~$25). I wouldn't bother with a new one. They aren't cheap for good one's. GD

No - you remove the flywheel (should be surfacing it anyway) and the pilot knocks out with a punch. Install using a properly sized socket. GD

Yes they are required. They are what allows the fork to pull the TO back so it is not in contact with the pressure plate. GD

Correct. None of the kits come with clips. You can get them at the dealer for a couple $. There are two that hold the TO to the fork. GD

I realize this is a zombie thread... but in the interest of useful infomation.... if you want to rule out the TO bearing just operate the fork with the cable slacked off or with the slave unbolted. You will be able to move the TO back so it is NOT in contact with the pressure plate. If the noise is still there in neutral - the input shaft bearing is shot. MOST of the time on these AWD 5MT's it's the input shaft bearing that's at fault. The TO's typically make noises when you press on the clutch and it gets quieter when you release the pedal. If the noise gets louder when the pedal is released and then louder still when the car is in motion - it's the input shaft bearing. A used tranny is an option to be sure - but anyone that knows these tranny's can replace that one bearing without spending the $300 to $500 for a used tranny. The bearing is $65 and it's three or four hours to change it. Now depending on shop rates that might mean it's about the same price but the bearing will be new and this is by far the most common failure on the 5MT's. You may get a good used one but you may get one that is going to need the same thing in 50k or less. GD

They are interchangeable - they made three peice units as well as five peice and also single-peice assemblies. The three peice is the most common and will work just fine. Just knock out whatever is in there and you'll understand how it works. The outer race is pressed into the arm and then the inner and outer cone's are installed followed by the seals. EA81 and EA82 rear 4WD bearings are identical. There should be no differences. GD

You already have a 6 lug truck pattern - why would you go to a 5 lug? That's just silly for a lifted wheeler. Especially for how much work it will be. Trust me when I tell you that the EJ205 has too much power for an EA81 chassis and will not fit well. It's also too complex for a wheeler and turbo's like to have the turbo spooled up to make power - which you can't really do when wheeling. You need gearing more than anything and a bit more power will help. An N/A EJ22 is the best choice along with a 5 speed D/R transmission. Not the AWD. GD

They help a lot if you don't use synthetic oil. They keep the oil temp much lower (around 60 to 70 degree's lower) and this reduces varnish formation. The cleanest engines I've seen were ones run with synthetic or an oil cooler or both. GD

Bad input shaft bearing. Possibly other damage if its been run low on fluid. That bearing is easy to change once you split the tranny. About $65 at the dealer. No telling what else is damaged though. Could be a basket case - you won't know till you open it. For sealing the tranny I use permatex anearobic or loctite 518. I use copious amounts of the stuff as it has become my go-to sealant for everything. I occasionally will use some ultra grey but not on transmissions. The transmission case is a perfect example of what anearobic was made for. GD