GeneralDisorder

Unlikley that you would be able to break the HF version. It's built like a tank and heavy like one too. The best way to figure out it's use is to look up the instruction manual for a hub-tamer or hub-shark and work from those instructions. The HF version is similar. With enough reading and puzzleing it out you can make it do the job. If anything you might have to have someone with a press remove the outer cone from the hub once it's apart but that should be $10 or less at a machine shop. Hell I would do it for free if you were around here. GD

Replace the caliper. They are cheap. GD

Hub tamers and the like are designed to apply force via a threaded pusher/puller type arrangment. No hammering is used. Presses are fine but the (correct) setup on a press is more time consuming than leaving the hub attached to the car and using the hub-tamer like tools instead. It's not that the press can extert more pressure - it's that it's harder to set it up right in a press. I have a 20 ton shop press and I would still use the hub-tamer. It's quicker and doesn't have any potential impact on the camber adjustment. And yes - removing the outer race is a beast of a job. Thus why I reccomended using the hub tamer type tools and an impact. It will WRECK your arm trying to work the pusher by hand with a ratchet. Trust me. I drained my 30 gal compressor half a dozen times with my impact getting it out. The new one went in easier but not much. GD

'89 or older - it's got a Dual Range. Specifically it's an '87 to '89 because of the dash and steering wheel style.... and lack of automatic belts..... hard to say which of those years as they were all very similar. 13" wheels and tires are standard on all EA series vehicles. Anything larger is VERY rare. A few examples have been found but they literally number less than a dozen sets that I've witnessed as factory EA wheels or optional wheels. Pug's not included of course.... GD

No - I meant 2.5 - you have to use the stuff from the intake that matches the harness of the car. Or switch to a '95+ 2.2 intake manifold. The early OBD-I intake harness and sensors will not interface with the '97s computer. GD

Probably not. EA81 might be close.... It probably just needs bearings/syncro's though right? Should be able to source that.... GD

No. The listing they had for "85 to 87" is surely for Brat's. EA82's ran from '85 to '94. The only thing that was discontinued in '87 was the Brat. GD

Shafts spin. Seals are stationary. This is the way of the world. The engineer's knew what they were doing. The clamps - known as Oetiker clamps - are a single-use item. You throw them away after removal and replace with new one's (usually included in the boot kit). Yes there is a special tool for installation and it's just about impossible to do it right without the tool. The tool is about $15. Rebuilding axles is not typically economically viable. By the time you buy the joints, the boots, clamps, grease, etc and then figure in the labor - you are well over what a new axle will cost in the aftermarket. I pay $65 for axles. GD

Nope. Totally gutless (110 HP). They are built for economy. They don't have knock control either so there's not much you can do with them easily. You want a 2.2 Impreza at the very least if you want any kind of performance. In either one you can put a 2.5 block under the 1.8/2.2 heads and get some performance that way. But that's probably more work than you are wanting to do. GD

I don't use the marks on the belts personally. They can and are wrong on aftermarket belts. I've seen it a couple times and even bought them where they have been blacked out and remarked but were STILL wrong . GD

Not true at all. Things can (and probably will with that one) go horribly sideways. Sounds like someone's weekend racer project they have lost interest in. Probably a huge POS for $1k. Definitely pass. Completely and utterly foolish, yes. Have your head examined if you think you are going to just get in and drive without a care in the world. It's obviously either a turbo swap or they added a turbo to the N/A engine - that's really, really sketchy - considering the price it was obviously not a professional build. Forget about that car kid. GD

Yes - it can work. But you must use the electronics and harness from the 2.5. Why not just do the head gaskets on the 2.5? That's usually the best bet if it's not been seriously overheated numerous times. GD

Front or rear.... doesn't matter. They call it a "FWD Service Set" because almost every other car that is FWD uses some form of bearing setup that allows for a splined shaft that fits into a hub that rides on the bearings..... most of those cars don't have the same type of rear wheel bearings that require this sort of tool. Subaru - being AWD for the most part - does require this same tool on front AND rear wheels. And the set will work for both. But it does require some imagination as it comes without applicable instructions - and it does not have a puller with which to remove the outer bearing cone from the hub once the hub has been removed from the knuckle. That you will have to figure out on your own. I modified a cheap puller to remove it - you could also heat it with a torch till it just falls off, use a shop press..... etc - there are a number of ways but it helps to have experience with bearing/sleeve/shaft/press work. For instructions I pulled up the "hub tamer" instructions for a Subaru and used those as a general guide on how to proceed using the Harbor Frieght version. But as I said you will have to tweak them to fit what you have to work with.... that's where the experience comes into play. I have reservations about telling people to do them this way precisely because most folks don't have the right environment/mindset to make it work. GD

Yes. And you don't need a hub-tamer. I have used the "FWD Service Set" from Harbor Frieght, and a simple two-jaw puller to accomplish the same thing for about $80. I do reccomend an impact for removing and installing the outer race. I have a customer with a '91 Legacy that I replaced a front wheel bearing in this fasion. So far 40k on it and no issues. GD

1,3,2,4 Standing in front of the car: 3 4 1 2 | \/

Heat sheild You have to change the inner bearing seal to something else..... but other than that it will fit the hub, yes. It's about 2" longer and if you could actually install one then it would work (but not compress correctly). But you can't.... so it won't. Even fully compressed they will not allow you to bolt up the control arm. GD

That's pretty much the key. And "much work" is a long, drawn-out process of learning. What I'm mostly saying is that you SHOULD NOT learn on the EA82T. It is not forgiving. Yes - people like presslab and a few others can get decent power from the EA82T. I could do it if I wanted to - I just don't have the inclination when I have EJ22T's around that make as much or more power in stock form and will happly boost to 20+ psi with almost no modifications - and will do it reliably. For me to build a reliable 250 HP EA82T would take thousands of $$$ and time that I don't have. For what? I can get that easily from an EJ with less work and a lot less money. Yep - that's how all of us started. Lots and lots, and LOTS of reading. Minimum requirements for "safe" (which is relative to if the bottom end will take it and that's no gaurantee as you see) boost IMO: 1. Complete replacement of all cooling system components. And not just the radiator and heater core hoses. Water pump bypass hose, coolant lines for the turbo, manifold coolant hoses, radiator, etc. 2. New head gaskets, rebuilt heads, and resurfaced block. If you are going over 15 psi - o-ring the block and have ARP make you a set of studs (not cheap ). 3. New/reman injectors. 4. Intercooler with recirc valve. 5. Oil cooler. 6. Wideband O2 sensor. 7. Exhaust gas temp probes with digital readouts and alarms. Under each head. 8. Digital coolant temp gauge. After all that you can *start* to play with it..... no gaurantee's on a used bottom end with over 200k on it though. Probably still end in disaster. As you can see the entry cost (I just listed several thousand $$ in case you don't know what that stuff costs) is prohibitive. And the returns on investment are not there. GD

Adaptor plates are not the proper solution. There is plenty of room to modify the existing hubs. Adaptors are going to cause problems with the offset, etc. I don't have time to measure that stuff. You will likely have to do it yourself. It's not rocket science. GD

Not much can be done on the NA engines. Biggest change would be cams, light exhaust work as noted above. Intake is not a restriction. Delta camshaft in Tacoma WA can get you a set of torque ground cams for it, etc. Beyond those two you will have to get into customized tuneing of the SPFI system using megasquirt or something similar. Not much to be gained though - maybe 10 HP and that's a considerable amount of work for such little gain. The torque cams will probably yeild noticeable increases in bottom end power but little to nothing on the top-end making for a flatter torque curve but no real peak HP increase. GD

More or less. They all interchange. No. Length. EA82's are wider. No. Yes. Only if an incorrect fuel mixture is used or the cat has no heat sheild. Stupid, no. But often asked. Some searching would have yeilded most of it. GD

Replace when they go bad. These are not something that you "repack" or "regrease" or change-out on a regular interval. Most of them last the life of the car and were, ostensibly, designed to do so. If one fails you replace just that single bearing and hope you never have to touch the rest. GD

Alright - why don't you change the title of the thread and your entire first post to reflect what you *really* wanted to know?.... despite that this is clearly a backpedal from your initial request for information on boost levels. But I'll let that slide if you promise to listen. Engines are engines. They are all different in their own way. Number of cylinders has little to do with it really. Most of what you are used to are probably iron block engines. The same rules don't apply to all-aluminium engines like the Subaru stuff. Wrenching is wrenching though and you can do a lot with anything if you have the right mindset and especially the patience to do the R&D neccesary to make it happen. The XT is the PERFECT platform for an EJ swap. It's a cool looking body, it's already setup for FI, and the parts/peices to do it are readily availible. You don't even have to change the fuel pump - just drop it in, wire it up, and go. Instant 135 HP. With some torque cams from Delta.... it would be a sweet ride. Better gas mileage too. Later on build a frankenmotor for it or put 5 psi into the EJ22.... instant 200 HP wedge. You will never get close to that for even remotely the same price with the EA82T. Yes it is possible to get 250 HP from one. But you can't afford the price that engine would cost to build. Last frankenmotor I built was $700... I have another I'm building that has basically cost me $275 at this point..... probably will be around $500 once I buy bearings, rings, and gaskets, etc. These are 2.5's with 2.2 heads.... making around 180 to 190 HP without a turbo. GD

The terms "turn up the turbo" and "kick up the boost" (while being wholely inadequate from a technical perspective) seem to refer to the exact same thing. Thus your statement makes no sense. This would lead me to beleive you have no idea what you are doing. And this list: will likely have "EA82T" added to it shortly. Sure you do. Good - and you should STOP right after doing those two things. You came to an internet forum and asked for advice. That in iteself is enough to infer that you are asking for advice on how to spend money. Otherwise you would just take the car to Chip Foose and have him and his team overhaul it for you. Granted. But you clearly want more performance. Most of us will tell you that the easiest, quickest, cheapest, and most reliable way to get there is to drop in an EJ. Not entirely true. You can destroy anthing if either you wish to do so or you don't seek help/advice from the right sources. Not knowing what you are doing is part and parcel to not seeking proper advice but in itself will not typically destroy an engine that has "common sense" maintenance like oil changes, belts, and hoses accomplished in a timely manner. Most people are capable of finding a shop do to this even though they themselves "don't know what they are doing". Also not entirely true. And especially not true on certain engines.... which the EA82T is one. "required maintenance" in the general scheme of things does not encoumpass what the EA82T usually needs to live. Especially in modified form. Not live long anyway. I'm not replying to your question in that way. I was replying to your response in that way. You are not listening. So that's what you get for not listening. Go ahead and destroy your engine if you like. Don't say I didn't warn you. As yet you have not shown that you have the knowledge or abilities required of that engine. I just call them like I see them. Prove me wrong..... GD

This really seems like a rotten/clogged radiator to me from the symptoms you describe. Although the car is relatively young in mileage - your location in NY where there is a lot of salt used on the roads will tend to rot out the radiator fins, etc. This could lead to a situation where the radiator is inadequate for proper cooling. I have seen engines from your vintage with similar miles that have horrible corrosion to the cooling system due to lack of maintenance..... it's possible but not common on Subaru's in general. Also - the fact that the shop mentioned the head gasket oil leak AND knew enough to indicate that it's *not* leaking coolant leads my to beleive they are familar with your engine and probably with Subaru's in general. That is a common problem and you SHOULD be using the Subaru coolant conditioner. It's $1.49 a bottle from the dealer here. Since your's isn't leaking just add a single bottle to the radiator. GD

Bad idea to run a high-compression EA82T - they aren't great on their stock compression and adding more just is not a good idea. You could run it MPFI without the turbo, yes. It should run alright with a high-compresison block. GD