GeneralDisorder

Not particularly - just the usual stuff and the 5EAT wasn't the best trans in any of the models it was put into. Coupled with the low production numbers and Subaru's tendency toward orphaning discontinued low production model parts it gives them a poor resale value and high maintenance cost. GD

Yes it's impossible. You can't make any of that stuff work as it's on a CANBUS network and removing any of the modules wrecks the network and shuts down modules when they can't communicate. Try unplugging the ABS module on a CANBUS car.... you can't even drive it. The engine will run but you won't even be able to even shift out of park. GD

Oh $hit you're in Canada! Subaru only sold 120 in 2014 in Canada. Wow that's super rare. Yeah I am pretty pessimistic because I do see the "bad" side of things being I fix broken Subaru's for a living. I have seen early model Tribeca's with 250k miles on them. They weren't terrible cars - I just don't believe in ANY of the newer CANBUS cars being viable significantly past 10 years old. Too much wiring, too many modules, and too much complexity - once they hit that age and start having problems - the cost to diagnose and repair them is usually far beyond their value or anyone's willingness to dive into 40 modules and 100 miles of wiring. GD

The trans computer would throw a code if there were speed discrepancies or the torque converter lock were not functioning. Trust me they get very unhappy when $hit goes sideways on the CANBUS cars. They usually become undriveable in a hurry at any malfunction. The last malfunctioning CANBUS transmission car I had in here was SCARY to attempt to drive. Only 742 Tribeca's were sold in the US in 2014. In other words - no one here is likely to own one. And DONT break it because finding a used transmission is going to be nigh impossible. GD

Depends on if the bell-housings match. Are they both side-starter or is the EA71 a top-starter? GD

No you would want actual urethane not that 3M crap. https://www.amazon.com/Smooth-Vytaflex-Urethane-Making-Rubber/dp/B01MYH05WV GD

With your power level and being lifted wouldn't it be better to just replace all of it? Staked in u-joints and all that business - with a stronger single piece that can be serviced? Haven't done one since pre-covid. Back then a single piece custom unit was generally $550 to $750. About what Subaru used to charge for the complete driveshaft assembly (the only way they sold them). GD

Seems unlikely given the running issues. More likely it's not pumping efficiently and actually has low vacuum. With the engine off, both should read atmospheric pressure. GF

Those numbers indicate the 03 isn't pulling the vacuum it should. 17.3 in/Hg vs. 22.2 on the 01 (generally see 22-23 on most stock NA Subaru engines). Do a compression test. GD

This is where you have a single piece driveline made. You can't get any of those parts anymore except from the junk yard, nor are they appropriate for your lifted chassis and higher power level. GD

The tires will have an arrow to indicate proper direction of forward rotation. Also uni-directional tires will generally have the same tread pattern if you flip them. GD

Cut open the oil filter and check for debris. Probably threw a rod bearing. GD

Neither. Rear's go straight to the front, front's cross to the rears. Unless you have directional tread. GD

Yes you can install the cam seals in the housing first. DO NOT use the bolts to attempt to draw the housing down. You will break the housing. VERY gently tap and twist to get the housing seated against the o-ring (replace the o-ring obviously), and only tighten the bolts once it's fully seated. GD

Not high for a Subaru. Subaru engines like higher RPM in general - keeps their oil pressure up at the insanely high PSI required for their narrow main and rod bearings. Lugging them will destroy them. Yes they have locking torque converters. GD

We tried every conceivable resolution. The customer certainly wasn't excited about pulling the tank. Ultimately we had to pull the tank after the car came back for about the third time unable to fill the tank and with codes, etc. GD

No late model towing options are all that cheap - if you are of the DIY type (many here are), why not consider an older GM truck? Much more convenient than a trailer. The '97 to '00 Vortec trucks are virtually indestructible, as are the 5.3 LS trucks that followed them. Really tough to beat an LS 5.3 and a 4L60E. I just parted out a Suburban that finally lost the trans at 250k and pulled the flawless 5.3 out of it for a swap. For the purposes of hauling, the truck does much more than a trailer, and for occasional use, fuel economy isn't a factor at all. With a truck you have a self-powered trailer. And who cares about cosmetics on a 20 year old truck. Plus much more convenient for towing a boat. And besides all that - it gives you a backup vehicle that takes up about the same space as that trailer. At any rate that's how I handle it. I have a '69 GMC long bed, and of course other toys and daily drivers. The Tribeca is an orphaned product. By that I mean Subaru built very few of them (only 77,000 over the entire production of all versions/years), discontinued them, and now they are already suffering from parts availability issues. On the last Tribeca I worked on I had to replace a cracked flex plate (after the morons at the dealer told the customer they needed a new transmission), and there were only 3 flex-plates left in the entire Subaru of America parts system. GD

That is a standard Bosch/GM NTC (thermistor) resistance value. You can use any $20 GM sensor in it's place. For example: https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-213-77-Original-Equipment-Temperature/dp/B000C9JS5C Or a Bosch unit (metric): https://www.bosch-motorsport.com/content/downloads/Raceparts/en-GB/53687307119081483.html#/Tabs=53698955/ Bosch also lists the values along with it. REALLY common stuff when you are doing standalone EFI setups and tuning. These are used everywhere - coolant temp, manifold temp, intake air temp, etc. They have brass, plastic, open element.... anything you could want and they are CHEAP. Bosch essentially set all these standards back in the 70's, GM adopted them along with a lot of Bosch components and rolled them into their Rochester Fuel Systems products and a couple billion GM products were built with Rochester (Bosch) injectors, temp sensors, and other bits. Subaru just copied GM because that's what they could buy cheap and it was essentially industry standard (and in many cases still is). GD

We have seen the canisters blow up and carbon pellets get sucked into all the lines and into the fuel tank. We have had to pull out fuel tanks to clean them and the inaccessible vent valves on top of the tank. Last one was a 2003-ish Forester. Similar era and system. GD

The 5EAT isn't the greatest trans Subaru ever made. I wouldn't recommend towing with it. They have a lot of valve body and wiring harness problems and the usual CANBUS issues. Very expensive to replace if you tear it up. If you are set on doing this you absolutely need to run something like Amsoil signature ATF and a cooler on it. Keep it as cold as you can get it. I would install a fluid temp guage also. GD

Just put a 251 in it. The 2.0 will be down on power, the ECU and gearing isn't setup for it's power band and if you need parts like rings or valves - not available in the US. GD

Auto mechanics do not smear brake fluid on boots. You're high if you think we do such things. People are such morons..... GD

If the MAF is bad, the car will drive normal with it unplugged. Check for a plugged exhaust. GD

Very unlikely you are going to find EA82's in the junk yards here in Portland, and if you do, about a 99.9% chance they don't have OEM axles. Subaru axles haven't been available from Subaru for that chassis in many, many years. The consensus is that there ARE NO GOOD OPTIONS.... period. full stop. Not new, not used..... nothing. It's a wasteland out there for EA parts. Half the time the click is because the cone washer and possibly the hub itself are knackered, and/or will be shortly after the next guy takes it apart and doesn't know how to properly assembly a mechanical shaft locking axle/hub system. GD

You probably have the distributor 180 degrees off. Remember it turns 1/2 crankshaft speed. The cams need to be 180 out from each other, but you can easily get the distributor 180 degrees wrong and still have the cams in a run-able position. The cams will be fine if you turn both of them 180 degrees but the distributor will then be 180 out. GD