GeneralDisorder

:lol: That POS is going to OWN your wallet. For the same price you could have easily had a Legacy - probably with less miles. More power, no turbo, etc. You'll never make a relible 135 HP like the EJ22. If you turn up the boost it will just fail. GD

The only safe boost with an EA82T is the stock setting. And even that is pushing it. They aren't designed for high-boost and even people with intercoolers, and other mods designed to support added boost have been largely foiled even running mild increases of like 3 to 4 psi above stock (around 10 psi total). GD

I probably have enough parts for you to rebuild an AWD transmission if you wanted to go that route. I swap them out all the time and just built a '96 STi transmission in a legacy cable-clutch case for a Brat. We are installing it right now in fact. Drop me a PM if you want to check it out. GD

A "race" is part of a bearing - most bearings have inner and outer races in addition to their rolling elements and often a "cage" to hold the rolling elements in the required posistions. With tapered roller bearings you have a "cup" which is the outer race and a "cone" which is the inner race, rolling elements, and cage. You don't replace just portions of these - you replace all components as matched sets. GD

Adaptor plates are not the way to do it. You don't really need a machine shop either. You can get close enough with a hand drill and some patience if you know what you are doing. They are probably hub-centric but many of us are running wheels with larger center bores than the factory rims... they do just fine. Just remove the hubs, mark out your pattern and center-punch/drill your holes. Flatten off the back side for the lug to sit flush and pound them in. This aint rocket science. The way I would do it - chuck the hub up in my lathe and scribe a line designating the bolt circle. Then mark my 4 holes with dividers and go to town with the drill. But I have a lathe..... there are any number of ways to do it without one though. GD

Sometimes not even the stock boost levels are safe . Don't turn it up - you will just blow stuff up. GD

If you look at the bearing seal it will be an NTN bearing. Who cares who made the metal bits that the bearing is inserted into.... I've used plenty of the Kabuki branded idlers from mizumo - they are fine. GD

Just swap the MPFI heads onto a carb or SPFI EA82 block. They are turbo heads but the compression ratio is 9.0:1 or 9.5:1. Yes they did build the GL-10's in '85 with the N/A MPFI - I have seen a few. They are rare and because of that they are not desireble. That was a single-year engine and has a lot of odd bits that are difficult to find. The SPFI came out in '86 and replaced that engine. GD

Doesn't make any sense to me - and I bet if you talked with the actual mechanics they would tell you a different story. I've seen a couple burnt exhaust valves now and the $1000+ repair bill that it comes with (when I do them for people) is not a happy day for them. It's pretty simple logic - valves wear on the seat and face - that makes them tight. They only have to wear .010" to close the gap and then they hang open - they burn shortly after and the engine runs like crap. Complete rebuild on the EJ25D heads runs me about $425 to $500 depending on what all they need. Not cheap to work on. I do have a machine shop that does so many EJ25D's that he will completely rebuild one for $1295 though. Not a bad deal considering the price of a used one is typically $900+. GD

You might want to read your owners manual . It's required every 105k - same as the timing belt. GD

That's a pretty typical rod bearing failure. The EA82T is well-known for those. I wouldn't have bothered dissasembling it - that was kind of a waste of time. Hole in block = no salvageable parts. GD

You don't dissasemble the outer joint - you slip the boot down over the shaft when the inner joint is off. GD

If the valves have never been adjusted..... probably burned exhaust valves at this point. Run a compression test to see. That's their bahavior at first - misfires at lower RPM and then the cylinder will start to fire as you accelerate. The last one I bought had 169k on it and the #4 cylinder had 60 psi due to a burned valve. No shim clearance will hang them open. GD

The pistons are different between '96 and '97. The single port heads are not the cause of the interferance. The ONLY way to tell if a single-port engine is interferance or not is to look for the solid-lifter/roller rocker setup under the valve covers. In '99 the EJ22 went over to phase-II like the '99 Forester/2.5RS EJ251. That continued till '01 - after that the EJ22 was discontinued from the US market. GD

Ghetto. Don't try that. GD

Suzuki tranny and clutch setup is too small. Yota stuff is in the works..... GD

If it has solid lifters with roller-rockers - it's a '97 or '98 engine. All EJ22's from '95 to '98 have EGR if they came from automatic's and all '96 and up will be single-port exhaust. GD

The bearings and their race(s) come as a set. Buy a bearing and install it - pretty simple. I wouldn't opt for using a press - the hub-tamer type tools are better as they don't put out as much force and potentially deform the bearing pocket in the process. GD

They can be redrilled to a 4 x 120 pattern - it's been done for 4 x 114.3 and even 4 x 100 so I'm sure 120 is also possible. GD

Don't bother rebuilding it - there's no profit in that. As you have seen they are easy to find and cheap. At most I would just repair the damaged crank nose or sell it to somoene that can for $50. It will have to be welded and then filed down and a new sprocket fitted. Pretty simple - take me about an hour probably. GD

Find someone with a hub-tamer or similar and press in a new bearing - about $35. Sounds like a used knuckle was installed that doesn't have the tone-ring setup for the ABS. Sometimes that will happen when you can't find the one you need in a timely manner.... just means the ABS doesn't work which isn't that big of a deal since the early ABS on that '96 is a big pile of crap and probably is better off not meddling with your braking anyway. GD

You can only run the EA82 style pump if you have the EA81 Turbo water pump, crank pulley, and alternator pulley as well. And you will need to have custom lines made up between the pump and the rack. It can be done though. If you are near Portland you can drop by and check out the setup on my wagon if you like. PM me (once you get to 10 posts) or leave a profile message or something. You will still need the EA81 power steering rack and cross-member. That's a different beast than what you have and it will take some searching - most EA81's didn't come with power steering so you have to find a high-end model. The true EA81 power steering pump is a BIG sucker that's off to the passenger side of the engine - it requires big mounting bracket, an idler that hangs down under the engine by the pan (and is vulnerable down there), and a different upper radiator hose and thermostat housing. And being that you have a hatchback - you need to be looking for parts from '80 to '84. Most '87s are EA82's and are almost entirely different. EA81 parts are getting scarce and harder to find now. They are still great cars but not well suited to daily driving anymore due to the lack of availible parts for them. Are you the one that bought Ryan's lifted hatch? GD

Yeah - I could see that at times. Though I have a right-angle impact now so it's a non-issue for me. I got the IR 2015 MAX a couple months ago and it removes cam and crank bolts like they were nothing even with the engine in the car and using a deep-well impact GD

Any EJ251/EJ253 will work. That's all '99 to '04 Forester/2.5RS engines, and 2000 to 2004 (or was it 2005?) Legacy, Outback, and Baja engines. Just use your existing manifold to insure complete compatibility of the wireing, etc. GD

Yeah I use it a lot for engines and transmissions. Sometimes trim and lights for newer stuff that I can't easily get at my yards. GD