GeneralDisorder

www.car-part.com GD

You got EA82 axles because you ordered for an "86" which to a lot of catalogs mean EA82. You need '84 axles. GD

AC auxillery radiator fan control probably. GD

Replace the purge (and EGR) solenoids with 33 Ohm, 5 watt resistors. Pickup a used Idle Air Control valve (IAC) from the junk yard. They don't often fail. GD

Why do you need one at all? I have done lots of DOHC belts and never needed an alignment tool. Seems an extraneous expense and waste of time to me. When the crank timing mark is aligned the pistons are all exactly halfway up in the cylinders - there is no possibility of a valve striking a piston and the valves are not in danger of striking each other..... in the scheme of things that's about the last tool I would bother building for Subaru engine service. GD

Are you SURE you got the pickup tube/screen on the fuel pump correctly when you changed the tank? Did you have the pump out? I have seen these left off or fallen off and when you take a corner the fuel pump will suck air and the engine will have a hessitation, etc.... GD

'98 was when they switched tensioner styles. If it's just a little leakage like that - compress it and if it still feels good just keep using it. They rarely fail. Just buy a kit for a '96 - fitment is the same for all '90 through '97 EJ22 kits. Kits for '98+ are (usually) sold with the tensioner because you can't buy the idler that's on it seperately. GD

You can't use an EA82 intake manifold with the EA81 Hitachi carb. They use a different bolt pattern. Trust me - you don't want an EA82 Hitachi either. Do the SPFI swap. Forget about the carbs. Buy Jerry's kit. It's well worth the $100 you will spend. Don't remove the oil pickup from the block. Why do you wish to? If you don't do the SPFI swap then find a replacement EGR tube and return the EGR to correct functioning. There's no need to block it. GD

1/4" ratchet, 12mm shallow socket, 12" bit of PVC pipe for cheater, 1/2" breaker bar and 22mm socket to hold the crank bolt. Pretty simple - unplug the IAC, TPS, and coil pack and pull back the harness - pull the PCV hose off. It's not a bad job at all usually. If the TC slips out of the tranny.... after the engine is out I stand inside the engine bay and carefully rotate and gently push till it slips back in. There should be about 1/16" of the bolt ears protruding past the lip of the bell-housing. It can be a real pain to get it back in place. Sometimes takes 5 or 10 minutes of fiddling with it to get it to slip back in place. You just have to be patient with them. GD

Yes - the P0420 code is being caused by extra unburned fuel going into the cats - you have burned them out and now they are no longer functioning correctly. You can install the non-fouler to eliminate the code. You should rebuild the heads or replace the engine with a 2.2. Letting it run like that is only inviting more problems. GD

The SPFI pump is keeping up just fine with my friends frankenmotor Brat.... granted the pressure is a little lower and the injectors are smaller NA injectors but I think it would be fine for an EJ20T. You can always go larger later if it's not enough. GD

5 rapid flashes continually reapeating is NOT a code 55 - it's the model designation code and does not indicate a fault. You are not performing the procedure correctly. You probably do not have an EGR temp sensor as those only came on California models. For a code 55 it would have to be 5 long flashes followed by 5 short. You have a code "5" which is a model designator. You do not have an EGR temp sensor based on that model code which is the code for a 49 states model. GD

There's a better tool than a pickle fork.... http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/steering/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-point-joint-separator-99849.html For Subaru's I typically avoid using either though - the pinch where the ball joint is installed into the knuckle is my prefered attack point. I realize that these get nasty with rust but my feeling is that it's going to have to be corrected at some point anyway and better now than later. And it's easy enough to drill out the pinch bolt and through-bolt it if neccesary. I use the above tool when I'm replaceing a ball joint and it usually doesn't hurt the boot. GD

For an '09 you MUST use the Subaru ATF. There is no aftermarket equivelent despite what the fast-lube joints will say about adding additives to normal ATF...... just don't do it. Get it from the dealer. That said - you don't need to change it. 18k is nothing for ATF. Go to 30k at least. GD

What do you mean by this? Yes there should be valve spring drag on the driver's side (left) cam sprocket with the timing marks aligned (which does NOT occur at TDC). This is normal. If you pulled the head because of this..... you shouldn't have. Sounds like a simple belt failure - I would suspect oil contamination. That will soften and destroy the belt in short order. Teeth being ripped off is a sign of degraded rubber or a really cheap POS belt. GD

It's very simple - check for power to the coil durring cranking - should be +12v to the positive terminal. Then check the coil resistance - should be about 1 Ohm and about 10,000 Ohms on either side. Then check for the ignition pulse with a test light between the negative coil post and the battery negative while cranking - if it passes those tests then your problem is with the plugs/wires, or you actually do have spark. If it doesn't pass the ignition pulse test with the test light then you need a new ignition module in the distributor. There is no reason to be throwing parts at your problem - this is easily and simply diagnosed and has been discussed on this and other forums many, many times. GD

If you use EJ22T style exhaust bits I think it will work with the stock pump. At least that's how I remember my 22T being.... it has a strange water pump because it's got the oil cooler barbs and also the thermostat on the bottom like an N/A.... Why would you bother doing a turbo EJ18??? The lack of knock control alone is a scary proposition..... hope you are going with a stand-alone. GD

I wouldn't touch them. They are a pain to install and get right. I don't know about the Subaru one's but when I have done wrist pin bushings in the past they have had to be honed to size after installation. I have never heard of anyone having to replace them. Typically you just buy new rods and they come installed. GD

Yeah - for flex purposes you really should stick with the OEM shouldered bolts and springs. And a new donut gasket...... if the flanges are torn up and won't seat well against the donut I have had good luck with copper RTV (the highest-temp variety) for sealing them up. It's good to like 750 degree's F which should be plenty that far from the header. GD

Front 02 sensor. GD

All the clutch-type LSD's here in the US are setup for bolt-in stubs that are not part of the DOJ cup like the Forester axles you have been using. Thus to do this I think you will have to get one from some other country..... or use first gen Legacy axles. There are Helical LSD's out there - probably in 4.111 - that could be sourced. They aren't cheap but they do exist. GD

Clutch plates run about $80 from the dealer - duty-c is about $110.... that's not $350. www.subarupartsforyou.com GD

NOTHING I listed was for racing - that's a whole different ball of wax. The parts listed are ONLY to get the engine mated to the trans, wired up, and driving. He's going to have a real "oh $hit" moment when he realizes that the engine he buys won't bolt up to an EA transmission nor even attempt to run with the car's wiring. No way he's going to buy an engine for $800 and have it installed for "less than $1000" total. He's a total idiot if he believes that claim. His "buddy" probably does GM stuff where just about any combo is possible due to similar bell-housing systems between engines. Knowing what's going on in this kids head - I'm not even willing to do the swap for him. I dont want his money or his problems. He can take his "business" elsewhere. I have plenty of sane customers that don't ask me to do stupid things like dump $4k into a crapped out eEA82T sedan with a junk homemade lift and messed up body. GD

Unlikely that your tapping is a valve adjustment problem.... the EJ25D valves get tighter not looser. But you should still do the adjustment to avoid a burned exhaust valve. You are very near the mileage where I've seen that happen. Last one I did was a '97 OBW with 169k on it - just 9k from where you are. You can't just buy a shim *assortment* - there are way too many part numbers and it's likely that you will need duplicates, etc. Also it often is the case that a few of your existing shims are suitible for other buckets so some swapping around can happen and you may have to only order 3 to 5 shims, etc. It's usually only the exhaust shims that need to be changed - the intake's generally don't need any adjustment. I agree with pulling the engine - it's the easiest way to do the valve adjustment without the $300 special tool that the dealers use. It is best if you have access to a metric micrometer and know how to use it. The adjusment of the valves is tight - .008" on the intake, and .010" on the exhaust. GD

There's still checks that need to be performed around the same mileage interval (105k). It's not exactly an EA81. Chains still do wear and need inspection/replacement. Just less chance of breakage overall and less likely to have a problem if ignored. GD