GeneralDisorder

Pull the engine - it's much easier to do the head gaskets properly that way. You should do some research on the EA82T before you decide to tackle this. That's a POS engine and most people just throw them out. I wouldn't bother doing the HG's on it - especially if this is your first time. It's already a finicky engine and thowing in an amature that doesn't know what they are looking at or have experience with the proper way to do the job.... could easily go sideways.

I typically charge $100 for a tested alternator with the correct pulley, etc for your application. I can install it for an extra $20 if you would like. I will need to pick up some Maxima alts (I'm out just at the moment but I'll be hitting some yards tomorrow or Friday I hope). I will need to know what belt style yours is running - single groove or double-groove pulley.

Rick

Not that bad - the head gaskets are accesible..... but if you can help it you should pull the motor and put it on a stand - much easier access and easier to clean/prep surfaces, etc. I've done it but I don't anymore - I always pull engines for that level of work.

Yeah - not a fan of the EA82. Heh. Take the pump apart and reseal the back cover with loctite 518. Replace the lip seal and the front shaft bearing. Or just find one that doesn't leak )

We really should take this to email - I'm being hampered by the 1000 character limit of the profile message system. He could try and get to 10 posts and it will enable private messages or we can just take it to email - hit me up at cropperr(at)gmail(dot)com - I also use gtalk (googles instant message system). It's a free download or if you have an Android phone it's probably already on there.

Rick

the engine appears to not have a EGR ... I have matched up the the three jumbo connectors and there seem to be some differences there.

The differences between the manifold and body harness concern me - there shouldn't be any real differences on anything that's '95 to '98. They all plug-in without any changes. What difference are you seeing?

The EGR stuff isn't a problem. As long as the harness is configured for an MT car then there should be no EGR flow sensor or function. Even if the engine had them they would be unused for an MT setup. When you put the EJ22 ECU into MT mode it will ignore that input because it assumes it doesn't exist. An EJ25D ECU on the other hand would still be looking for the EGR in MT mode so hopefully you don't have one of those.

Rick

hey general my name is Jordan..... I agree with you secondary 02 can be tricky. I have found a few devices though.

The O2 thing is pretty simple - all we have to do is add a $4 non-fouler between the secondary O2 and the exhaust pipe to fool the ECU into thinking there is a cat and it's working. No big deal just more work.

Any way ... engine harness, and main harness .... all were claimed to be 97-98 legacy MT. I have two ecu's... reverse polarity between the MT and AT cars .... Need we worry?

There is just a single pin typically that indicates MT/AT and it's grounded for MT and open for AT (IIRC). No issue there either.

Rick

Oh - and as for the MAF - you will need a MAF from any 2.2 or 2.5 from '96 to '98..... 95 may also work as those are also technically OBD-II cars though they do not have the secondary O2 and there are some other differences. But your ECU/Harness will work with any of the phase-II MAF's.... I know this because I've swapped a 2.5 out for a 2.2 and they are plug-and-play compatible. Even a 2.5 Harness/ECU will run a 2.2, etc. and they are all pretty much interchangeable through those years. '99 gets into some funny stuff with different models having different engines but a MAF from a '99 Legacy chassis (EJ25D engine) should also work.

Rick

Ok - that's still technically a "phase-I" engine - but it's what we call an "OBD-II" engine - it has onboard diagnostics ability through a federally mandated port directly under the dash. That's a fine engine to use though there is a bit of added complexity with the secondary O2 sensor system, etc. Sure - send some pics to my email - cropperr@gmail.com

Rick

What year is your EJ22 and harness from? I'm sure I could find a MAF if needed from the local yards. They are about $35 IIRC. By 2nd gen I assume you mean '99 to '01? That's not the ideal engine to to use IMO because they are hard to find and harder to find parts for.

GD

The cost is fairly high to do that kind of work, yes. It will likely run about $250 if you want me to strip the harness and prepare it for you to install. If you want me to the do the install as well it will likely be around another $450 in labor and materials (fuse panel, solder, heat shrink, etc.). It's about 10 hours of labor to do it correctly - understand I can't put my name on anything that's sub-standard and I wouldn't want to charge someone for that kind of work either. It's got to be correct as much for safety, fire prevention, reliability, etc as anything. Let me know if you want to bring it down to me and persue one or the other. If I *just* strip your harness and return it to you then the installation is fairly straightforward - I label all my harnesses very well and can help with questions over the phone, etc.

Let me know if you want to proceed with either option...

GD

A non turbo short block would physically work and would essentially be the same thing if you swapped out the piston for turbo versions. If you don't it will not last long. Turbo short blocks are 8:1 compression while the non turbos are either 9:1 or 9.5:1. This will cause detonation and failure pretty quick.

Hey! Hows the hatch? )

I don't think it has an illumination circuit so there is no "factory" way to dim down the face. Maybe a piece of window tinting? Or a flip-up cover of some kind? I would have to think about that. I haven't noticed it myself but I probably will now that you have brought it to my attention. )

Turbo on an EA81 is..... possible.

The biggest question is - how much do you have to spend on this project? That will tell me if you can afford it and if so how far you could go.

Get yourself to 10 posts on the board so we can take this to PM land and have a better in-depth conversation on the matter.

GD

You should shop around - most of the financing that is availible at the dealerships is similarly availible through various banks or credit unions. You don't have to open a bank account at the location you get the car loan through - they will setup a loan account and you will be a member without any checking or savings, etc. Just like the dealerships do with their finacing companies. It's worth looking into - you might even save some money being that you would be buying a less expensive car.

No worries - if you go to your bank or credit union, etc they usually have excelent rates on used car loans - or you might qualify for a personal line of credit which is more flexible. You would simply be doing the same thing but not through a dealer. And I would defnitely offer you a better product and better service. But I completely understand either way you go - that sounds like a nice car with low miles. No worries here - I have people lining up for my cars and my neighbor really wants this one so it may not even get very far out of the garage before it gets snapped up! I pretty much sell them within a few days or a week of finishing one. It's rediculous. But I love it!

You shouldn't have to do anything with the EGR system - the carb manifold will bolt right on and the EGR tube will screw into the passenger side head the same as the SPFI manifold. You can then hookup (or not if you prefer) the EGR vacuum line to the front of the Weber carb. You will want to use the EGR valve from the SPFI manifold as it does not have the AAV port on the top. Just bolt the SPFI EGR valve on and go.

If you are refering to the ASV system (air suction valves for the cat's on carbed models), then I could see your concern - that system is entirely eliminated with the SPFI long block as the heads do not have the ports for the ASV pipes drilled. You can just toss that stuff in the trash as it is not used at all with a Weber.

GD

No trouble at all - drop by sometime and check out the collection!

Yeah - I have all that stuff. No worries. Why don't you send me an email - cropperr AT gmail DOT com. Give me a list of the things you need and I'll help with whatever I can on the bearing issue. :-)

I wish I had an extra Weber but I don't at the moment unless you want a Holley DFV clone that needs it's throttle shafts rebushed :-)

I'll look through my collection and see what I can come up with. I know I don't have an adaptor or filter but those are $35/$20 from any Redline/EMPI dealer, etc. I might be able to put together a DFV with good throttle shafts but it would probably need a few jets ($5 each) changed, etc to be ready for an EA. I don't have any DGV's at the moment. If I can put together a DFV you can have it for my time to do that - say $35 and a couple bucks to ship it?

If you wanted to buy one from like ebay or craigslist, etc and send it to me I could rebuild it for you. If you can get one cheap it would likely be worth it. They usually run about $100 to rebuilt/rejet/adaptor/filter etc if you find a bare carb.

Rick

Huh - they haven't updated their web site I guess. Last time I did it was like 5 years ago I think. All things considered, $50 isn't too bad for a part you can't buy new at any price. Let me know if that doesn't fix your power problem.

I understand the unemployment - have done that myself recently. Good luck with getting it running and finding a job. Jerry or Bill will have no trouble getting it going I'm sure.

No problem on the carb kit part numbers. You'll also want to pickup some carb cleaner - the small 1 gallon paint-can style with the dipping basket is very useful. Just make sure you don't put any of the plastic or rubber parts in the dip.

You also may need to replace the electric choke unit - they have a tendancy to fail where the hook is bent into the spring - it wears through and falls off leaving you with no choke - very hard to start when cold.

Also - if you find the forum here useful you might consider donating $5 and getting full access to all the features - private messageing (this visitor messaging is a pain in the butt), etc. Only takes about a minute if you have paypal:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/payments.php

Rick

The '87 to '94 Nissan Maxima alt is what you want. There's a huge thread about it - just search for "maxima alternator".

Sounds like you have a small flat-spot right off-idle. A larger idle jet will probably fix that for you.