GeneralDisorder

Get a Deutsch connector kit and put in a new connector. It's not difficult. GD

5EAT is not a direct swap (not even indirect) and they have a LOT more problems. Avoid. You don't need more gears anyway. GD

Replace the battery terminals and check the fusible links. GD

Amsoil 5w40, and Amsoil filters if you want to run up to 25,000. We don't recommend less than 6k. And we don't do any non-synthetic anymore. Waste of money and time. GD

Do they have the same inner spline count? Often the one's with the ribbed inner cup are 25 spline. But perhaps not all of them. Distant and foggy memories of EA stuff..... GD

Since you can't get NTN axles for anything in the grey market it seems to be industry practice. NTN makes axles for a TON of manufactures. I've seen them on Fords even. I believe that essentially their entire production capacity is used up just supplying OEM's so they likely don't care. GD

NTN won't sell axles through the grey market. Their axle division has an exclusive deal with Subaru. Trust me I've asked about it and my sales rep at Worldpac would sell his children to get NTN as an axle supplier. GD

It does take that long. We do them periodically on the 2008 to 2010 WRX's and STI's due to fatigue failure of the pedal mounting box spot welds. About a $1500 repair. And that's not even touching the heater core box. We have it on good authority that the assembly line starts with the heater core hanging from some fishing line and all subsequent parts are then bolted to it. GD

No loctite. Just tighten to spec. Nothing else I can think of while you are in there. GD

There is no "break in" on journal bearings - if contact occurs then it will destroy itself rapidly. That rod bearing is going to get as much oil as it's going to get from the mains no matter what you do and you are better off putting it back with the extra clearance it has. Get some Lubriplate assembly lube for it and stick it back in there. And this a 20w50 engine for the rest of it's life BTW. GD

The FEQ axles are garbage in our experience. Even my Worldpac sales rep tells me not to buy them. They don't meet with my standards anyway. Tried a few - they pop out of the box. We use OEM Subaru (Subaru no longer produces remans), or we have had some limited success with a brand I get from another distributor - IMC - SureTrak I think is the brand. But they have cheap boots and the OEM boots don't fit.... we give people a choice if they are concerned about the price and I tell them they are good for maybe a couple years if they are lucky and we won't install them in anything lifted or that may see off-road use. They simply aren't appropriate for that. On lifted EJ vehicles we will install Group-N mounts and then move the outer clamp of the inner boot up the shaft to relieve some of the strain on them. GD

Dash pull! 10+ hours. All my tech's and all the one's I've ever had before them.... and myself..... hate that job. GD

LoL. I haven't done electrical troubleshooting on a Loyale in probably more than a decade. Not that I would commit such things to memory for more than an afternoon anyway.... not very useful in the grand scope of things. You need a diagram. Find a factory service manual on ebay. GD

If the CEL isn't lit, and multiple computers act this way, then you have a power/ground issue. Check all the power and ground circuits to the ECM. GD

Would have run ok with oil pressure. Probably would have lived a normal life. That's not terrible. Not great either but typical of these engines. Don't put in a new bearing. If you do anything just reassemble it as you found it and run it. GD

The EE20 is not smaller than the EJ22. It's a dual cam engine with much larger heads. Also they suck: http://www.uklegacy.com/forums/index.php?/topic/145286-why-boxer-diesel-engine-crankshafts-fail/ GD

LOL. GD

The EE20 is garbage. They suffer from main journal inserts cracking and failing. It was an experiment and it was generally a failure. Thus why it was discontinued. GD

Not really. EGT isn't monitored and you only have 1 AFR sensor just the same as pre CANBUS vehicles. Oil level might be on the very new stuff..... Initially even the FB's didn't have oil level. It's like.... 14 and newer maybe? But I think it's only an input the the cluster not the ECU. GD

Fun stuff to play with. Was a software engineer at one time myself and I do a lot of dyno tuning and some ECM hacking on my GM stuff.... But as an engine builder I typically don't care about oil pressure once the engine is built and it's verified before/during/after break-in. Obviously I care if it drops below 5 psi or so (idiot light zone) but beyond that... Pretty much useless as you aren't going to actually do anything (there's essentially nothing you can do) about it unless it starts knocking anyway. Oil temp.... Maybe.... but with modern synthetics that can hold their viscosity at 400 degrees it's basically also a non issue. I'm much more interested in EGT and AFR per cylinder if I can have it. And an oil level monitor that will indicate if the level drops more than 1 quart is useful. Pressure.... Not that useful. Changes a with RPM and temp, age of the oil, etc. Now if you want something that's actually useful - differential pressure across the filter so you know when it's in bypass - that's useful. GD

I would look into one of the many readily available 4L60E controllers. The Subaru 4EAT has a similar set of solenoids. You could control the rear output with a simple PWM controller or just shut it off for full 4WD or 100% for 2WD. GD

TCU failures are a concern as the hardware is getting old. Have seen several 90's TCU crap out or throw erroneous codes. GD

They have reasonable power for what they are. Not nearly *enough* power IMO, but then everything I drive these days has at least 350 HP, and you get spoiled driving high HP race cars all the time. They will get down the road, up mountains, and they don't feel like everyone is going to run you over. But they certainly aren't fast. GD

Just get a non-VDC 4EAT 2000 to 2004 Outback or Forester. VDC transmissions are difficult to find replacements for. As for running a mismatched tire for a few miles - it's not going to be a problem in practice. Drive slow. Make frequent stops. These cars are HEAVILY abused at this stage of their life and the transmissions just aren't failing from the current level of ownership - which is by and large people without money for good tires, or even complete matching sets of tires. The auto's really don't care much. The manual's suffer from center diff failure on the regular - local dealers stock about 3 of each MT center diff at all times to keep from being out of stock. Coupled with the clutch, and the lack of a low range (provided by the auto's TC), they are a poor choice. Especially for off road. The EZ30's go about 175k to 225k and lose HG's. Once they go you can replace the engine cheaper than you can replace the HG's. They aren't all that much more powerful, and the parts for them are more expensive, and they are a lot more labor intensive. Personally I feel they are a poor investment. Subaru will orphan them sooner than the 4 cylinder. Subaru has now discontinued all H6 engine models. GD

If the crank sprocket was wrong, it wouldn't run at all. No question about that. You can look elsewhere for your problem. 100%. GD