GeneralDisorder

I have seen such custom things done for driving instructional vehicles. In case of a serious manuevering mistake or other issue with the student driver - the instructor can just take over the operation of the vehicle. GD

Depends on the type of steel rim you have - some use a "spreader foot" on the nut and do not have a bevel on the rim that matches the Subaru nuts. Other's have the bevel and you can safely use Subaru lug nuts with them.... The picture above doesn't include the "spreader foot" style pug steel rim lug nut..... GD

Nope - the cat's destroy the information used by the O2 sensor. The sensor MUST be about 12" to 24" from the heads (for temperature reasons) at a collector point. You cannot put anything in the pipe before the O2. Period. Of course - if you want to run some other form of engine management then you are free to do whatever you like. But within the constraints of the stock ECU - it will not do what you want. GD

I personally prefer the older style even if I have to buy a new one (about $75 for the tensioner on ebay). Due to the higher rate of failure and the slapping/superceeded bracket issues with the newer one's I just would rather use the piston style tensioner. I have never had to replace one - they seem to last the life of the engine which is good enough for me. As Shawn mentioned - I would not consider doing the timing belt on a '98+ without also replacing that tensioner and possibly the bracket as well if it's one of the superceeded units.... this adds to the cost of the timing belt job and in my experience the '98+ cars are ALWAYS more expensive to do the t-belt's on. Best combo IMO is the early tensioner, 105k belt (CA belt for older models), and all new idlers. GD

I've bought three of them now where (apparently) the previous owner just turned up the radio and ignored everything - on the last car the front wheel bearing sounded like the rotor was dragging on the ground, the car had massive, terrible torque bind, and the engine had been starved of oil till a rod nearly let go and the lifters had deflated. Basically the woman just drove the car till it stopped driving. But you should always address wheel bearings as soon as it is apparent that there is a problem. A week or two likely isn't going to make any difference but it's just like waiting an extra 1000 miles before changing your oil - is it going to kill it? No - but it's a bad habit to get into. GD

Short answer - no. The computer has only a single O2 sensor that controls mixture. It has to be installed in the exhaust stream of all 4 cylinders. Thus you cannot operate a *true* dual exhaust and have the computer work correctly. An H pipe will not work for the same reason - you are not getting a true sample because the flow can bypass the sensor. It MUST go to a collector first where the sensor can sample the exhaust stream and THEN you can run two pipes out the back if you want. There's no benefit to it though. GD

They typically last much longer than 64k. Being it was already done once before on the same wheel..... I would be looking for a used knuckle with good bearings. Pretty easy to find - try www.car-part.com if you can't pick one up from a yard yourself. I would be concerned that the knuckle is warped or damaged and that no bearing will last much longer than the 40k you got from the last dealership replacement. Better to just pickup a used complete knuckle for less than $50 and swap out the assembly - takes less than an hour. You can definately have it replaced - but finding a shop that is willing to actually go through the hassle of doing it correctly and also doing an ID mic. of your knuckle's bearing pocket to see if there's warpage, etc..... much harder, more expensive, and at the end of the day not really beneficial. Just figure the knuckle is bad and replace the whole unit with a good used part. Always cheaper and in most cases will last as long as you need it to. This can be an $800 repair, a $300 to $500 questionable repair, or a $100 repair with some help from a board member or someone from craigslist that needs some side work, etc. Harbor Freight has a "front wheel drive service set" (their cheap version of a hub-tamer) that includes most of what is needed to change out the bearing yourself. It cost's $80 and a new bearing is $35 and a few bucks for seals. I have done it using only what is in that set, a cheap two-jaw puller, and hand tools. The one I did using that setup now has 40k on it and no trouble at all. The owner drives 160 miles a day so I'll get to see how it lasts compared to these monkeys at the dealer that can't seem to install a bearing to save their life. GD

Typically the cone washer has to be replaced - sometimes the hub as well if the splines have been damaged or the conical section where the cone washer seats. You can't effectively file or grind either the cone washer or hub to correct the wear either - the MUST be replaced with undamaged parts. The loss of metal affects the way they interact and will not allow them to grab the axle shaft properly. Rarely the damage will be so severe that the axle has to be replaced as well. That is typically not the case though as the axle splines are much harder than the hub splines. GD

The carbed car's do not have an ignitor (well - they do but it's in the distributor and entirely different). But the SPFI/MPFI/Turbo's all use the same ignitor on the coil bracket - as you surmise you have to replace the entire bracket as the ignitor is soldered to it in a way that it cannot be removed seperately without risk of damage. It's just a simple transistor that acts as an amplifier/relay for the coil ground signal from the ECU. GD

251/253 blocks will take damage - but from what I understand the "interfereance" on the 25D is valve/valve due to the DOHC system. In other words the pistons still don't reach high enough to tap a valve..... GD

Take a small whet-stone to those couple little marks, have the cylinders power-honed and it will likely be fine. The rings don't come up as far as those marks on the chamfer of the liner. And no - dont use a cracked piston like that. That thing is scrap metal. GD

EA81 carb: 8.7:1 EA82 carb: 9.0:1 EA82 SPFI: 9.5:1 EA82 Turbo: 7.7:1 Off the top of my head. Pretty sure those are the numbers though. GD

I doubt that clean lake water would corrode anything. You might have to change the gauge cluster just because it will be pretty wet inside... I would put it back in operation. I pressure wash electrical all the time - it's not the water that gets it but rather the salt in those states that salt roads, etc. A compressor and a blow-gun is all you need to make that thing work again. And of course buy some new interior. Buy it back for $500 and sell the car whole for $1000. It's worth it - that's an easy $1500 profit for someone with an afternoon and some used interior bits. When I worked on industrial machinery - it was common practice to STEAM clean elecrical stuff - I would tear down electric induction motors and steam clean the windings with soap, etc. Dry them as best I could with a blow gun then put a fan on them for a couple days. We had a Meg-Ohm meter for checking to see if they were dry. Never once had a problem. This was accepted common practice at our shop and we worked on 480v 3-phase motors in the 5 to 500 HP range. 12v DC is not going to get damaged by some lake water. GD

Yes - crap in the tank is entirely possible. I've fought that with my '69 truck. Similar symptoms. I would be more inclined to suspect the ignitor (coil bracket) than the actual coil. Subaru coil's are pretty tough - I've never actually seen a confirmed case of one failing. Mostly I've seen aftermarket coil's fail after some idiot has thought it needed to be changed. GD

Check for proper power to the coil - there are two sides to the coil so there are two leads that have to be powered going into the coil pack. I'm pretty sure that's how it works. They might be powered off seperate fuses..... Did you try a third ignitor? I've seen them fail where only half the coil would fire. GD

Why are they selling it? You don't do that much work to then lose your rump roast on it by selling it for $1500..... I am always VERY wary of people selling swapped cars - IMO you should never buy such a thing from "man off the street" - the level of competance of those who swapped it is as important as what they swapped and what conditions it's in. That ad has precious little info on what was done. Sounds like billy joe bob threw in a used 2.2. Probably butt-spliced rats nest of wireing.... there's no shot of the engine bay so it doesn't look like they are too proud of the work..... I'm going to go out on a limb here and say you should probably avoid that mess. GD

Punch mark both the ring and the case to indicate the current setting. Count the number of turns as you remove and when the threads get close to letting go apply outward pressure and make a seccond punch mark on the case indicating the proper location to re-engage the threads. It's pretty straightforward. GD

$2000 tops. Even with the low miles - its an EA82t and its old. It's going to need a bunch of rubber and maintenance..... and its just not at all desirable. GD

You need a kit for an IHI RHB5. GD

This is an easy fix - you just need a "reverse" wireing harness. Here's a whole bunch: http://www.google.com/search?q=Scosche+su03rb&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&startIndex=&startPage=1#q=Scosche+su03rb&hl=en&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&prmd=ivns&source=univ&tbs=shop:1&tbo=u&ei=Ff00TfGTPIX4sAOGvLiCBg&sa=X&oi=product_result_group&ct=title&resnum=3&ved=0CD8QrQQwAg&biw=1823&bih=814&fp=5fc6e4edb7c346ed GD

Feel the burn of the EA82T yet? :cool: Yep - now you know why we hate them. You are already on engine #2 and the "I can't make it run right" tantrums are starting. Growing up and learning the hard way sucks. You should really listen to those of us that have been there and given up on that POS. A wise man learns from the mistakes of others... A smart man learns from his own mistakes.... A foolish man never learns at all. GD

Yes - there should be like a plastic clip that the cable "slots" into IIRC.... Maybe look closely..... broken off? I haven't seen that happen but you never know.... GD

There should be an IAC adjusment somewhere that *can* be changed. At least there is on the SPFI's..... I thought there was on the turbo as well.... In any case you really shouldn't be messing with settings like that if it ran fine before you took it apart. If you haven't removed any of those devices then something else has changed. Better to find out what has changed and work toward a solution than to just turn screws and move hoses in a futile attempt to make it function. GD

The Lloyd ancestory of the Subaru engine has been talked about on this board before. I've known about it as far back as when I joined this forum back on EZ-Board. It's not really discussed much though. Mostly it's brought up when someone thinks that Subaru is somehow related to the VW boxer. They are completely different animals though and being water cooled the Subaru pushrod EA series has much more in common with the Lloyd. But yeah - descended from the German design..... back when the Germans actually made stuff that wasn't *too* complex. GD

You need to have them all rebuilt. At $4.50 each.... why would you bother shipping them just some of them? GD