GeneralDisorder

Yeah you are right - I got confused apparently. :-p GD

Did the dealer even pull the codes for the TCU? (AT temp light flashing means there's stored codes). I don't see why they would assume the clutch pack is bad having only 20k on it - any Subaru trained tech should know that if the duty-c fails it will not allow fluid pressure to open the clutch pack and thus the car will act like a 4WD. That's pretty straightforward troubleshooting - hell you don't even have to pull the codes. Just insert a fuse into the FWD fuse holder under the hood and go for a test drive - torque bind with FWD fuse in place = bad duty-c. Sounds like they put an amature or a poorly trained tech on your job or are milking the insurance company - which would totally piss me off because that's MY insurance rates they are playing with Definitely ask for the old clutch pack back. That's worth about $40 to someone. They run about $85 new. GD

Cam seal leaks can flow back that direction as well - though I haven't seen as many failures on the 251/253's than in the past engines. Perhaps Subaru wised up and changed the seals to silicone or viton instead of buna-n. GD

I would guess that the ATF temp light flashing is indicating a duty-c solenoid failure - thus the torque bind around turns. The solenoid is not allowing fluid through to open the transfer clutch. The thumping sounds like a front CV to me. The fact that the control arm, ball joint, knuckle, etc were part of this accident lends credibility to a damaged CV joint that wasn't noticed when the repair was performed. The bent tranny mount/x-member idea from the body guy is a WAG and is almost certainly wrong. I've seen far worse collisions without any damage that far back. That's almost certainly not the issue. GD

You will not likely get a response in this post to a question like that - start a new post in the Retrofitting forum. GD

You need to go somewhere other than Shucks. That is not a good choice for Subaru parts. Napa is about the best of the "chain" stores and that's not saying much - they pretty much suck also. You can check for the proper parts listing through their web site though and then take in the part number to eliminate the counter-monkey from screwing up your order. If you have any specialty import parts houses around - go there. I use a place called Discount Import Parts - they started out as a VW parts house but from there branced into Audi and then all the rest of the import brands. They have the best prices and the highest quality parts - brands that no chain stores sell. It sounds like your issue might be that plug wire - but you should change that fuel filter anyway. It's easy and cheap. GD

If it's that big of an issue to you then by all means have them replaced. Generally oil leaks from the HG's are not that big of a deal - even when they are dripping down the x-member, etc. Most of us ignore it. The real issue with the 251/253 head gaskets is the external coolant leak - which can get quite bad. Though it is often solved with the stop-leak additive that Subaru sells for this problem. GD

Yeah sounds like there's some indication of clutch pack failure. The binding around turns is a clue. The thumping you are hearing.... could that be the tires breaking loose on the pavement? That would make sense. When was the tranny fluid last changed? This problem is often caused by dirty, old fluid. The proper method to cure this is to drain as much of the old fluid as possible, fill it with new ATF and then drive the car for a day or two. The procedure is then repeated about three times total - giving it a chance to mix with the fluid that can't be removed from the torque converter each time. By the third drain/fill you basically have all new fluid and if dirty ATF is to blame then this should cure it. I have fixed quite a few with $30 in ATF. Do NOT have the transmission "flushed" - this will stir up metal and debris from the oil pan and likely cause more harm than good. Don't allow the dealership/shop to do this. If they will not listen then do the drain/fill on your own. It's cheap and simple. GD

Just "moist"? Don't freak out - just clean the area and monitor it. Oil leaks around the head gaskets are pretty common on your engine and as long as it's not making a big difference in the oil level between changes - don't worry about it. Keep using the mobile-1 its good stuff. GD

It's not about how it runs - the Weber is better performing and will make the car actually able to merge and pass on the freeway. Not to mention it's less complex, possible to tune, etc. It changes the entire character of the car - people have likened it to the change going from an EA engine to an EJ engine. It doesn't increase peak HP by anything significant, but it does improve throttle response, driveability, and low-end torque. It can be done but it's a long hard road - the parts are just not out there anymore. And there are some things are are better upgraded than restored - the Weber, the 5 speed, the seats, radio, rear window latches, etc. No it does not - and in any case that would not help your mileage. The 5 speed spreads the middle gears out. 1st on both is the same as is 4/5 - both are overdrive. The 5 speed is built better, has a vastly superior linkage system, does not suffer from 3rd gear syncro issues, and allows you to accelerate easier and maintain 25 MPH in a decent gear (3rd). The 4 speed is either lugging or at like 3k at 25 MPH - very annoying. Plus the 5 speed bolts right in with Jerry's kit and looks 100% stock inside. You don't even have to change the knob if you don't want. There will just magically be a 5th gear above reverse . GD

Nice - needs a Weber and a 5 speed . GD

Freeze plug - accessible under the valve covers. GD

It is apparently overheating at times and may already be in need of head gaskets. It's days are likely numbered with the monetary situation of its new owner and his lack of knowledge, tools, etc. As I said - this will not end well. GD

What the hell is it that you bought? The speedo head is full of transmission oil. The seal in the transmission needs to be replaced, the cable cleaned, and the speedo head cleaned. GD

Did you replace both filters? GD

There's no difference. The adaptor plate is designed to put the tranny in the same location relative to the EA flywheel. Thus it works just fine. The EJ does push everything closer because they don't use stepped flywheel's on the EJ's. That was part of making them larger yet not longer. GD

Unfortunately the Phase-II gaskets are not MLS. They are single layer gaskets (very thin) with a coating on either side. Both old and new gaskets are the same in this respect so it is not actually possible to tell if they have been done before without actually removing the head and inspecting the gasket coating's shape and location.... GD

The 4EAT transmission is probably one of the most reliable things on your car. Great tranny - don't replace it if it's working. A couple drain/fills and $30 in ATF later can make a big difference. DO NOT have it flushed. That just causes bigger problems usually. I have done my share of tranny swaps - I've replaced over a dozen 5 speeds. I have replaced only one 4EAT. Even when they have been abused and never had the fluid changed, etc - some new ATF usually does wonders. It's astounding how reliable they are frankly. I would get them to agree to the engine replacement - then tell them that "to save them money" you would like to persue the EJ22 replacment. A good used EJ22 is likely to last you longer than an EJ25D and will cost half as much. Both you and the shop win (as much as these guys *can* win at this point). Explain it to them in detail - print out posts from this forum detailing the swap if you have to. GD

You realize that when brand new the car only had 90 HP right? What tires do you have on it? EA's are scary slow - especially when you add some larger tires, etc. Have you verified both the ignition timing and the valve timing? Perhaps one t-belt is off a tooth or something. Ignition timing should be set to 20 degree's BTDC. Use a timing light. GD

Yes - make sure the oil pooling on the top left is not from the power steering pump (which should be ATF but all too often has been changed for some other fluid). Your engine is well-known for external head gasket leaks - both oil and coolant. It's typically at the rear bottom corner. The driver's side is almost always the worst and generally accounts for 80% or more of the failure that are seen. Updated head gaskets are availible from the dealer that fixed this issue years ago (like back in '06). If you are having leaks at that point I would suspect an improper rebuild using sub-standard aftermarket gaskets.... or being it was all dirty as you say..... perhaps it wasn't actually rebuilt at all. GD

Yes - this does not add up nor do the symptoms jive with a transfer clutch problem. Damage to the transfer clutch will cause binding in sharp turns (we call this torque-bind) or no power transfer to the rear wheels (depending on the damage - too much friction or not enough). I have never seen or heard of one causing any type of thumping noise. Sounds like the dealer is trying to get one over on the insurance company. But it could just be a mis-diagnosis or the thumping could be related to something else that has gone wrong. I can see how transfer clutch damage could occur if she was mashed hard on the go pedal with the car pinned against a barrier like that. GD

Personally I would probably buy my bearings and rings for an EJ at the dealer. I'm investigating that right now actually. I have used Sealed Power in the past (Fel-Pro) and had good luck with them on EA's but for the EJ's (specifically I'm doing an EJ25D for a frankenmotor) they are so particular and prone to bottom end failure that I feel it's wise to stick with the OEM. The engine I'm doing was dissasembled by a NASIOC member that bought it just for the heads. I guess he tore down the short block to see the insides of it - only had 120k on it and looks good inside so I'm going to do a power-hone and new rings/bearings - it doesn't need anything undersized or oversized in my case so my thought was to use OEM wear items and have the extra peice of mind..... You shouldn't reuse the OEM water pump gasket - they are a throw-away once they have been crushed and are only a couple $. I have never replaced a head bolt on a Subaru either. That comes from people thinking these are similar to GM stuff. They are not and the head bolts are not an item that needs replacement unless they are damaged. GD

I scored a different (older) tranny so I don't think I'm going to try this. It was an idea I had because the Forester tranny's seem to be cheaper than the OBW tranny's..... demand I guess. GD

No problem. The red-top EJ22E injectors are quite cheap. I wouldn't have them cleaned I would just replace them. I think they are about $45 each. I guess that's quite a bit but what is the cost of cleaning? GD

If you *do* ask for all the money + the 500 + the blue book..... get a lawyer. I doubt they will think you serious if you don't. I would explain to him that you are not confident in their work, nor are you confident in the logevity of the current engine due to the damages they caused. I would ask for a replacement engine - similar condition to what you had prior to the "incident" - with a warantee, and installation by a shop of your choosing. GD