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GeneralDisorder

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Everything posted by GeneralDisorder

  1. GeneralDisorder
    Probably not the computer - the engine will run with that completely disconnected and thrown in the trash (just for example) and will still shut off, etc. The EA81 feedback ECU's don't even control the fuel pump. Sounds like you have a short that's powering the ignition coil without the switch being in the on posistion. Could be the ignition switch itself even. GD
  2. GeneralDisorder

    We really should take this to email - I'm being hampered by the 1000 character limit of the profile message system. He could try and get to 10 posts and it will enable private messages or we can just take it to email - hit me up at cropperr(at)gmail(dot)com - I also use gtalk (googles instant message system). It's a free download or if you have an Android phone it's probably already on there.

     

    Rick

  3. GeneralDisorder

    the engine appears to not have a EGR ... I have matched up the the three jumbo connectors and there seem to be some differences there.

    The differences between the manifold and body harness concern me - there shouldn't be any real differences on anything that's '95 to '98. They all plug-in without any changes. What difference are you seeing?

     

    The EGR stuff isn't a problem. As long as the harness is configured for an MT car then there should be no EGR flow sensor or function. Even if the engine had them they would be unused for an MT setup. When you put the EJ22 ECU into MT mode it will ignore that input because it assumes it doesn't exist. An EJ25D ECU on the other hand would still be looking for the EGR in MT mode so hopefully you don't have one of those.

     

    Rick

  4. GeneralDisorder

    hey general my name is Jordan..... I agree with you secondary 02 can be tricky. I have found a few devices though.

    The O2 thing is pretty simple - all we have to do is add a $4 non-fouler between the secondary O2 and the exhaust pipe to fool the ECU into thinking there is a cat and it's working. No big deal just more work.

     

    Any way ... engine harness, and main harness .... all were claimed to be 97-98 legacy MT. I have two ecu's... reverse polarity between the MT and AT cars .... Need we worry?

     

    There is just a single pin typically that indicates MT/AT and it's grounded for MT and open for AT (IIRC). No issue there either.

     

    Rick

  5. GeneralDisorder
    If he can get it down to Portland I can do whatever needs to be done (up to and including replacing the engine (likely about $1000 if truly needed) but as noted a 96 is not interference). I have a truck/trailer and also a friend in Olympia with an enclosed car hauler. I can have him up and running (worst case where he needs a replacement engine) in a week or less and at a very good price for quality work. PM me if interested. GD
  6. GeneralDisorder
    You need the whole manifold - they are completely different. I wouldn't install a Hitachi - they are junk too. If you want one I have a Hitachi that I've stripped of all the emissions equipment and setup for a manual choke. It's already on an EA81 manifold. $50 for the whole unit. GD
  7. GeneralDisorder
    Most auto parts stores are not able to pull the TCU codes - they are not availible through the OBD-II port and so you need to do the manual code pull like back on the OBD-I stuff. GD
  8. GeneralDisorder
    There are stored transmission codes - you need to read the codes and repair what it's complaining about. Do a search on how to read the TCU codes and tell us what you get. GD
  9. GeneralDisorder
    '95?!?! Everything I've read says Dexron II/III/IIIE (II on some of the older stuff but III is compatible with II) till like mid-'05 when the 5EAT came out (which takes the HP lubricant). They went to the HP on everything for simplicity I think more than anything. The 4EAT has been using regular Dexron for most of it's production life though. GD
  10. GeneralDisorder
    I cut the end off the pipe, then cut the flared pipe section shorter, weld up the hole in the threaded fitting and install it with the shortened flare section back into the head. Cheap plug. But yeah - just use your '97 intake and plug the hole in the head. Get intake gaskets at the dealer. You will also need a new exhaust header since the '95 uses dual-port heads and the '97 you had was single-port. GD
  11. GeneralDisorder
    He (Gary) is talking about me. I do work like this all the time but I may not be in your area. I'm in Portland, OR. Very likely my rate on that job would come in around $800 to $1000 - probably on the lower end if the timing belt has been done. And yes I do a lot more than most shops when I pull an engine - since I specialize in Subaru's I have the advantage of knowing what needs to be replaced, where to get the best parts at the best prices, etc. But if you have a shop you are comfortable with (really it's the *actual* mechanic that you have to trust not some counter jockey) then by all means take it there. The rate they are giving you isn't terribly outragous but it's no real bargain either. $1800 is very high and frankly $1400 is easily on-par with most dealerships which probably will use better parts and gaurantee their work for longer, etc. As Gary mentions - do all the cam/crank seals, have the oil pump removed and check the backing plate screws + reseal it (and new o-ring), replace the valve cover gaskets, and while the engine is out you should replace the heater core hoses, radiator hoses, and water pump bypass hose. If the water pump or any of the idlers/tensioner wasn't done when the timing belt was then do all that as well. The belt itself is less of a concern than the lower cogged idler and the water pump (+ OEM thermostat) at your kind of mileage. GD
  12. GeneralDisorder
    The Addco sway bar does exist and does fit - I assisted with the install on renob123's Brat - it's not an EA82 part at all. GD
  13. GeneralDisorder
    Yes - where are you located? There are many of us that do this type of work better and cheaper than the dealer. GD
  14. GeneralDisorder
    I have seen the door panel sticker, but never the one from the windsheild. I have at least 2 maybe 3 of those distributor cover's in my shed. Not that rare - probably one out of 10 of the EA81's I see has one still. Personally I would swap the seats for EA82 (early '90s Loyale's are usually a good bet) because they don't have the vinyl. They are 100% fabric. Does require a bit of modification to fit the EA81 rails to the EA82 seats but it's not that bad and you can find something that will match pretty well most likely. Though it might be hard with that tan - come to think of it I haven't seen an EA82 tan interior that I can remember. GD
  15. GeneralDisorder
    Yep - the log manifold is a terrible design. So is the head porting. As someonee recently put it - the EA engine's have the bottom-end geometry of an F1 race engine and the manifold/head setup of a tractor. :-p Being large bore/short stroke - they do like to rev and you have to if you want any power from them - shift at 5k. You will never hurt it at all doing that on every single shift. GD
  16. GeneralDisorder
    The 22T is a great engine - but as for buying one and not doing much to it - that's a crap shoot. As with any turbo - after 100k things get cooked from the added heat. Hoses and rubber go first and if you spring a leak an overheat is just around the corner. The upper water tank nipples like to break off, PCV hoses get brittle, turbo ducting breaks, etc. Maintenance is the killer on them. Properly maintained they will run a long time (300k+). Improperly maintained.... the original engine out of my car (91 SS) died at 165k because they overheated it till things started to melt - blew out the heater core and radiator - cooked the turbo - seized the engine. I would not use one off-road. The low-end torque is not as good because you have to spool the turbo or it's a low-compression engine. The factory turbo is small so it does spool quick but it wouldn't be my choice. There's just too much complexity with a turbo engine and complicated = broken when you are talking about off-road situations. GD
  17. GeneralDisorder
    Yep - axle nut/cone washer fitment issues, loose lug nuts, etc. Probably not calipers though. GD
  18. GeneralDisorder
    How are you spinning it to check the comp.? Compression readings will depend on rotation speed..... you can't effectively check it by cranking it over with a wrench. GD
  19. GeneralDisorder
    If the transmission were slipping then it could affect MPG, yes. That could be the difference you feel. Not good to run the ATF out of the auto's. Slipping of any kind (for whatever reason) can lead to accelerated wear. Hope no permanent damage was done. I wouldn't worry about the front diff gear oil or the rear diff gear oil - those rarely need to be changed. There's no combustion products to break them down and I've seen subaru diffs easily go 300k on the factory gear oil fill. That's just not an issue. I would take it to the dealer but focus on the ATF only. Don't worry about the gear oil except to check the level. GD
  20. GeneralDisorder
    Sounds like wheel bearings or CV's. If the caliper is bad you would either have a mushy pedal (possibly with leakage of fluid), or it would be giving off an odor from burning brake pads, or possibly even pulling to that side if it's really stuck, etc. The cables are probably shot - corrosion can do that. But I wouldn't jump to the idea that the calipers are bad. Dissasemble and inspect. I think you will find bad bearings or CV's. GD
  21. GeneralDisorder
    That's completely normal and doing fine. The engine makes 90 HP at the crank - all things considered it's doing pretty well to put 77 to the ground. Nope - replace the solenoid with a 33 Ohm, 5 watt resistor. It's just an annoyance CEL though. Does not affect power. GD
  22. GeneralDisorder
    Mileage is a factor - inspect the head gaskets. If they are 3-layer MLS then they are original. If they are 4-layer gaskets they have been replaced. If they are original IT WILL EVENTUALLY FAIL. It's a matter of time with these. The higher the mileage on them the more likely they will fail soon. It's possible for them to make some decently high mileage without blowing - I just did a burned exhaust valve repair to a '97 OBW that had the original gaskets at 169k. Bought it from the orginal owners and got all the service reccords - had to remove the heads anyway because of the valve and the gaskets were definately factory. So it does happen, yes. GD
  23. GeneralDisorder
    It shouldn't hurt the calipers any - I have removed plenty of parking brake cables from caliper lever's without any issues. Unless there is other problems with the calipers that you didn't mention. GD
  24. GeneralDisorder
    Yep - liquid dish soap and water - heavy on the soap. That's what we used when I had to put graphics on machinery. I liked to use a mister bottle to spray down both surfaces before application. Get a small squeegee too - like one that is 3" wide. Will help to get in small areas and work out the bubbles. GD
  25. GeneralDisorder

    Shoot.

    GeneralDisorder replied to bigo1966's topic in Off Road

    I concur on the EA82 double-DOJ axles - I think that could go a long way to solving your problem. I have about 4" of suspension and 1" of body lift in the rear of my EA81 wagon and I also use EA82 DOJ's (deeper by about 1/2" each) and I haven't broken a rear axle in a while now. I'm also welded so it puts a lot of stress on them and EA81's are narrower so 4" for me is more than 4" for an EA82 (talking axle angles) since the width helps on the EA82's. I had thought about using limiting straps as well since it seems that they most commonly break when the wheel is off the ground and the tire is spinning. GD
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