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GeneralDisorder

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Everything posted by GeneralDisorder

  1. GeneralDisorder
    Interferance vs. non-interferance isn't an issue in the real world - that's an issue of people coming over from the EA side and thinking these are like EA82's and are going to break a timing belt at any moment. The reality is that I've worked on dozens and dozens of EJ's - replaced countless timing belts..... I haven't yet seen a failure even when run far past the reccomended change interval, drug over seized water pumps and idler's..... just doesn't happen in the real world. You occasionally hear about it but it's usually from massive neglect. '97 and '98 are my preference for phase-I EJ22's because they have solid lifters. GD
  2. GeneralDisorder
    Why don't you just heat that sucker up and bend it back straight? Wrap the end with the bushing in wet rags...... If you have access to a press you could straighten it that way as well. Bring it over if you like - I can straighten that in about 20 minutes. GD
  3. GeneralDisorder

    Oh - and as for the MAF - you will need a MAF from any 2.2 or 2.5 from '96 to '98..... 95 may also work as those are also technically OBD-II cars though they do not have the secondary O2 and there are some other differences. But your ECU/Harness will work with any of the phase-II MAF's.... I know this because I've swapped a 2.5 out for a 2.2 and they are plug-and-play compatible. Even a 2.5 Harness/ECU will run a 2.2, etc. and they are all pretty much interchangeable through those years. '99 gets into some funny stuff with different models having different engines but a MAF from a '99 Legacy chassis (EJ25D engine) should also work.

     

    Rick

  4. GeneralDisorder

    Ok - that's still technically a "phase-I" engine - but it's what we call an "OBD-II" engine - it has onboard diagnostics ability through a federally mandated port directly under the dash. That's a fine engine to use though there is a bit of added complexity with the secondary O2 sensor system, etc. Sure - send some pics to my email - cropperr@gmail.com

     

    Rick

  5. GeneralDisorder
    I think they are refering to some function that attempts to prevents damage to the cat's by reading the exhaust gas immediately after them and then also farther downstream...... That's what it sounds like anyhow. GD
  6. GeneralDisorder
    The cat destroys sensor data - sensors after the cat cannot be used for tuning. GD
  7. GeneralDisorder
    It really sounds like you are over-reacting and this is a very minor leak. Machines sometimes do that. And going nuts on it with new seals and gaskets is uneccesary, expensive, and generally a huge waste of time. Cam seals do often leak but it will not contaminate the timing belt on the EJ engines. It will drip down and out under the belt cover. It is my experienced opinion that you should wait to address this at the next timing belt change. Clean the area with brake cleaner and monitor it. GD
  8. GeneralDisorder

    What year is your EJ22 and harness from? I'm sure I could find a MAF if needed from the local yards. They are about $35 IIRC. By 2nd gen I assume you mean '99 to '01? That's not the ideal engine to to use IMO because they are hard to find and harder to find parts for.

     

    GD

  9. GeneralDisorder
    Remove the rocker assembly (no you won't disturb the head gaskets) - there are access holes in the frame rails to pull the bolts through. You can probably do it with it in the car. GD
  10. GeneralDisorder
    Oil filter leak would likely be dripping off the bottom of the filter. That's been my experience. How much oil are we talking about here? Pictures? GD
  11. GeneralDisorder
    Yeah you are right - I got confused apparently. :-p GD
  12. GeneralDisorder
    Did the dealer even pull the codes for the TCU? (AT temp light flashing means there's stored codes). I don't see why they would assume the clutch pack is bad having only 20k on it - any Subaru trained tech should know that if the duty-c fails it will not allow fluid pressure to open the clutch pack and thus the car will act like a 4WD. That's pretty straightforward troubleshooting - hell you don't even have to pull the codes. Just insert a fuse into the FWD fuse holder under the hood and go for a test drive - torque bind with FWD fuse in place = bad duty-c. Sounds like they put an amature or a poorly trained tech on your job or are milking the insurance company - which would totally piss me off because that's MY insurance rates they are playing with Definitely ask for the old clutch pack back. That's worth about $40 to someone. They run about $85 new. GD
  13. GeneralDisorder
    Cam seal leaks can flow back that direction as well - though I haven't seen as many failures on the 251/253's than in the past engines. Perhaps Subaru wised up and changed the seals to silicone or viton instead of buna-n. GD
  14. GeneralDisorder
    I would guess that the ATF temp light flashing is indicating a duty-c solenoid failure - thus the torque bind around turns. The solenoid is not allowing fluid through to open the transfer clutch. The thumping sounds like a front CV to me. The fact that the control arm, ball joint, knuckle, etc were part of this accident lends credibility to a damaged CV joint that wasn't noticed when the repair was performed. The bent tranny mount/x-member idea from the body guy is a WAG and is almost certainly wrong. I've seen far worse collisions without any damage that far back. That's almost certainly not the issue. GD
  15. GeneralDisorder

    The cost is fairly high to do that kind of work, yes. It will likely run about $250 if you want me to strip the harness and prepare it for you to install. If you want me to the do the install as well it will likely be around another $450 in labor and materials (fuse panel, solder, heat shrink, etc.). It's about 10 hours of labor to do it correctly - understand I can't put my name on anything that's sub-standard and I wouldn't want to charge someone for that kind of work either. It's got to be correct as much for safety, fire prevention, reliability, etc as anything. Let me know if you want to bring it down to me and persue one or the other. If I *just* strip your harness and return it to you then the installation is fairly straightforward - I label all my harnesses very well and can help with questions over the phone, etc.

     

    Let me know if you want to proceed with either option...

     

    GD

  16. GeneralDisorder
    You will not likely get a response in this post to a question like that - start a new post in the Retrofitting forum. GD
  17. GeneralDisorder
    You need to go somewhere other than Shucks. That is not a good choice for Subaru parts. Napa is about the best of the "chain" stores and that's not saying much - they pretty much suck also. You can check for the proper parts listing through their web site though and then take in the part number to eliminate the counter-monkey from screwing up your order. If you have any specialty import parts houses around - go there. I use a place called Discount Import Parts - they started out as a VW parts house but from there branced into Audi and then all the rest of the import brands. They have the best prices and the highest quality parts - brands that no chain stores sell. It sounds like your issue might be that plug wire - but you should change that fuel filter anyway. It's easy and cheap. GD
  18. GeneralDisorder
    If it's that big of an issue to you then by all means have them replaced. Generally oil leaks from the HG's are not that big of a deal - even when they are dripping down the x-member, etc. Most of us ignore it. The real issue with the 251/253 head gaskets is the external coolant leak - which can get quite bad. Though it is often solved with the stop-leak additive that Subaru sells for this problem. GD
  19. GeneralDisorder
    Yeah sounds like there's some indication of clutch pack failure. The binding around turns is a clue. The thumping you are hearing.... could that be the tires breaking loose on the pavement? That would make sense. When was the tranny fluid last changed? This problem is often caused by dirty, old fluid. The proper method to cure this is to drain as much of the old fluid as possible, fill it with new ATF and then drive the car for a day or two. The procedure is then repeated about three times total - giving it a chance to mix with the fluid that can't be removed from the torque converter each time. By the third drain/fill you basically have all new fluid and if dirty ATF is to blame then this should cure it. I have fixed quite a few with $30 in ATF. Do NOT have the transmission "flushed" - this will stir up metal and debris from the oil pan and likely cause more harm than good. Don't allow the dealership/shop to do this. If they will not listen then do the drain/fill on your own. It's cheap and simple. GD
  20. GeneralDisorder
    Just "moist"? Don't freak out - just clean the area and monitor it. Oil leaks around the head gaskets are pretty common on your engine and as long as it's not making a big difference in the oil level between changes - don't worry about it. Keep using the mobile-1 its good stuff. GD
  21. GeneralDisorder
    It's not about how it runs - the Weber is better performing and will make the car actually able to merge and pass on the freeway. Not to mention it's less complex, possible to tune, etc. It changes the entire character of the car - people have likened it to the change going from an EA engine to an EJ engine. It doesn't increase peak HP by anything significant, but it does improve throttle response, driveability, and low-end torque. It can be done but it's a long hard road - the parts are just not out there anymore. And there are some things are are better upgraded than restored - the Weber, the 5 speed, the seats, radio, rear window latches, etc. No it does not - and in any case that would not help your mileage. The 5 speed spreads the middle gears out. 1st on both is the same as is 4/5 - both are overdrive. The 5 speed is built better, has a vastly superior linkage system, does not suffer from 3rd gear syncro issues, and allows you to accelerate easier and maintain 25 MPH in a decent gear (3rd). The 4 speed is either lugging or at like 3k at 25 MPH - very annoying. Plus the 5 speed bolts right in with Jerry's kit and looks 100% stock inside. You don't even have to change the knob if you don't want. There will just magically be a 5th gear above reverse . GD
  22. GeneralDisorder
    Nice - needs a Weber and a 5 speed . GD
  23. GeneralDisorder
    Freeze plug - accessible under the valve covers. GD
  24. GeneralDisorder
    It is apparently overheating at times and may already be in need of head gaskets. It's days are likely numbered with the monetary situation of its new owner and his lack of knowledge, tools, etc. As I said - this will not end well. GD
  25. GeneralDisorder
    What the hell is it that you bought? The speedo head is full of transmission oil. The seal in the transmission needs to be replaced, the cable cleaned, and the speedo head cleaned. GD
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