GeneralDisorder

I live in OR so I might be somewhat biased..... I've seen people drive around with much more than just the hood missing. Doors, fenders..... you name it I've probably seen it. We've got some real winners out this way..... I might be one of them +1 on the ratchet straps and the roof rack. If it blows off..... HAMMER DOWN! GD

Those don't usually wear out though. Possible. I've never had to replace a single one. Climate? I've replaced a LOT of ball joints though - some so bad I really don't know how they didn't fall apart....... Also - the effect is on vs. off the gas pedal - not when braking. So the car is moving forward - you push on the gas and it drifts to the left. Coast and it drifts to the right. The leading rod is still being pushed the entire time and the control arm pivot/bushing pretty much holds it fairly steady. But a worn ball joint allows the knuckle to move independantly of all that. Either way it's pretty scary when you realize how worn that stuff had to get to make it operate like that. I've never replaced a leading rod or control arm bushing on a Subaru - EVER. And I have solved this same problem before so...... GD

Adjusting the spring perches up creates a marginal increase in ground clearance - it is useless on the street (duh) and throws the car's camber out of whack - causing you to burn through front tires when the outer edge wears much faster than the rest of the tread. The owners manual cautions against this except for OFF ROAD use. Further - it makes the front stiffer and that's bad for articulation. It's just a better idea all around to leave them adjusted down in the front. And it's a MUST that they stay down when you measure up for the lift - or otherwise you wreck the camber measurements as I pointed out above. You can lift the rear all you want with the torsion bar adjuster - that does not affect anything other than ground clearance but it makes the rump roast end stick up in the air like a cat in heat - rediculous IMO. GD

He said EJ22T in his post :-\ A plain EJ22 puts down 135 HP (EJ22T is 165 HP and 185 Ft/lbs stock). The EA82T puts down 115 HP and likely pretty similar torque numbers due to it being turbo-charged. That's not a huge difference. I would think that a good condition RX box should handle a non-turbo EJ22 as long as you treat it halfway decent. Jacob (renob123) has a ~180 HP high-comp. EJ25 running into an EA 5 speed D/R - running around in 2WD on the street and 4WD in the dirt. He hasn't broken it yet....... yet . We are rebuilding a JDM 5 speed close-ratio AWD box for it. I wouldn't want to run much more than an NA EJ22 (maybe with some torque cams, etc) on a stock EA 5 speed. I think it's a bad idea for longevity. And actually the RX box can't be put into 2WD (where wheel spin actually cuts down on how much torque you can torture it with) so..... that's a drawback in some respects. GD

Confirm +1. My '99 Forester has a radiator with a cap. Plastic tanks, aluminium core..... replaced it when I bought it. $115 local purchase. GD

When I first got my Brat it was like that - I've seen it a time or two since then - always with EA's with their strange control-arm leading rod setup.... It's not real common because you don't often see *both* of them bad at the same time and if one is good then it typically won't do the gas pedal steering trick. I'm not entirely sure what effect causes this from the ball joints - but nothing else really makes them do that from what I've seen. All kinds of play in the tie rods and ends won't do it - since the accelerator doesn't really have much effect on the rack and linkage, etc.... it's like some gyroscopic effect I think. GD

Just depends - but I've heard of them lasting 20k to 40k making noise. Depends on where the failure is and how rapidly its progressing. Could also damage other bearings or gears if allowed to progress too far - remember these are shaft bearings and play in the shaft will affect gear tooth alignments, etc. GD

Classic ball joint symptoms - steering with the gas pedal.... yep. Didn't even need my wand for this one...... GD

The input shaft bearings are "floating" when the clutch is disengaged - once you release the clutch the input shaft is loaded with engine torque - it gets quieter when you go down hill and would probably be it's quietest when everything is just coasting - slightly downhill, no throttle pressure, but not fully closed either..... you know what I mean. Sounds like classic input shaft bearings to me. This is usually an AWD transmission problem but being the XT6 is the FT4WD without the D/R it would have the same bearing setup as the AWD tranny's. GD

Better low-end torque, throttle response, etc. Easier to maintain, simpler, and more reliable. Nothing if you tune it properly and drive the same as before - chances are you will hot-rod it a little more though and lose a few. None - the carb isn't the bottleneck at the peak HP RPM range. You are much better off calling www.carbsunlimited.com and telling them what you want - electric/manual choke, air filter height (short for stock height rigs, tall for lifted rigs), adaptor plate, manual choke cable if applicable.... etc. Sure. GD

What exact measurements? Don't you want 6" blocks? Take some measurements - got a tape measure? This aint rocket science and people who build lifts aren't going to just throw their intellectual property at you. Search the forum - that's what the search function is for. Then go take some measurements. You aren't going to be able to just build the full kit without taking the car apart and building it as you go - just doesn't happen unless you have built some already and have the jigs for it. Get out in the garage kid - put in some time on it. Put the car on jack stands and LOOK at how it's put together. GD

It probably has rear drums if it's a basic L model without ABS and a leaking wheel cylinder will coat the shoes in brake fluid and make them grabby like that. Just fixed a similar problem on my 4-wheel-drum truck..... GD

Yeah - drain the gear oil and check for glitter. Sounds like input shaft bearings. You will likely find cage material in the gear oil. GD

Definitely want to flush out the core - pull the hoses off and flush it both ways with a garden hose. GD

This '96 I just swapped into runs GREAT on '87. I think there must be some differences in the GT gearing or the 2.5 torque converter because it accelerates much better than I would expect from a 2.2 auto in a heavy 2nd gen Legacy. I have access to the ECU for the 2.2 but I don't see any reason to change it. Not based on the performance I'm getting from the 2.2. It doesn't feel like it's pulling any timeing to me. Didn't know you could plug the OBD-II manifold harness into a 90 to 94 manifold.... guess it makes sense now that I think on it. I think only the Auto's had the EGR even in the early 90 to 94 OBD-I years. GD

That totally blows. I have to ask though - why didn't you purchase insurance for the return shipping? Was it just an oversight on your part thinking that the standard insurance would cover it? Sorry about your luck. That's a crock that it didn't fit. They must have built it using the wrong jig or something. GD

The Subaru CVT is different than any other CVT design I've seen in recent years. It's a chain-driven Reeves Drive. I don't think you can compare it to the other stuff on the market right now. GD

I just installed a '96 2.2 into a '96 GT that had a blown 2.5. It was totally simple. You need a '95 to '98 EJ22 intake manifold to go with that '94 engine - then it will bolt right in. If the 2.5 is in an automatic you will need a 2.2 manifold with EGR so you don't get a CEL. The '96 I found had the EGR so I was lucky - apparently it's a crap shoot from '96 to '98 but all the '95s have them. Also get the power steering lines for the EJ22 - the '94's lines might work but a '95 to '98 will work better most likely (I know for sure they changed the pump reservoir.... etc). Make sure to use the flexplate from the 2.5 if it's an automatic. Other than that it drops right in and looks completely stock. GD

None of my blocks are through-bolted and I prefer it that way. The through-bolt technique puts more stress on the capture nuts when the lift/block flexes off-road. I have never ripped out a capture nut using the stock bolts and bolts/nuts at the bottom of the blocks. If you wanted to through-bolt it just use all-thread. But you would need to sleeve the blocks so the area around the hole was reinforced. 6" is getting high enough that you will need bracing anyway. You will want to tie the blocks together to form a "sub-frame" to which the suspension parts bolt on. You should do some searching here on the board - there's lots of info on building lifts. For a 6" lift you are going to need at least a welder, ability to cut metal (band saw is idea), and the usual drills and grinders, etc that come with metal fabrication. There are smaller lifts (2", etc) that folks have done without access to a decent shop but much higher and you start getting into dangerous territory without a proper design and decent fabrication shop to work it from. GD

Yep - same procedure. Just use a bleeder bottle and crack the bleeder open. Sometimes they can be a pain and thus the bench bleed - for that I use some fittings that plug the outlet ports to provide back pressure. GD

Yes - there are bleeder screws right on the MC. It's the first thing you should bleed before doing the calipers. It sounds like there's a serious air bubble on your primary circuit or there's a bad seal in the MC. GD

You would need a DL headlight setup. Possible to find but relatively rare by comparison to the more common GL setup - ask in the wanted section. GD

It sounds like one circuit in your master cylinder is bad - the way it goes almost to the floor before getting stiff..... have you bled the master cylinder? Rebuild kits are availible cheap - try www.rockauto.com. They are easy to rebuild and that might just solve your problem. Do a bench-bleed before installation. The boosters almost never fail - I've never heard of it anyway. Possible but unlikley. Nice lookin wasgon BTW. GD

If/when they get the bugs worked out I think it's going to be a great transmission. From what I've read it's an excelent concept and the way they resurrected the reeves drive variable speed system makes me smile. I'm hoping the early versions just have some simple bugs that they will address. GD

You might have to trim a bit on the radius rod plate and the cat's heat sheild for the EA82 pipe to fit properly. But yes it can work. GD