GeneralDisorder

22B Impreza. GD

On the older SOHC engines all the head bolts are outside the valve cover. I do not dissasemble heads for resurfacing. The shop I take them to doesn't either. Never had any issues. It's much more economical to leave them together - especially for the later SOHC engines that have an RTV sealed cam case. GD

Ignition timing is no problem - you can use the infomation above about the marks being 6* off to reference where to set the distributor and also it's pretty easy to just stab the distributor in using the cap and the #1 TDC trick. Good enough for the engine to run anyway. Your real problem is the belts - if those are not correct - especially if you installed the belts using the ignition timing marks instead of the valve timing marks (that you don't have) you are going to have a real chore ahead of you. I would probably take a look at another EA82 and figure out where the valve timing mark is in relation to the crank nose - like on the EJ22 the timing mark is up when the keyway is straight down..... something along those lines. Unfortunately I'm not sure where the mark is in relation to the crank on the EA82 - I've never seperated the EA82 from it's flywheel since that's never typically needed. GD

The valve covers do not need to be removed but it makes getting to the head bolts easier. GD

You need to use the EA82 flywheel because it has different timing marks than the EA81 flywheel. Thus you are timing it with the wrong ignition marks. The EA81 flywheel also has no valve timing marks for installation of the belts. GD

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Looks like the aluminium seperator plate of the early 22's - the plastic one's are black. GD

What flywheel are you using? I'm assuming it is carbed? Are you having trouble with timing belts or ignition? GD

No need for plastic there - just bend a new section of pipe and replace the ferrules with brass. Looks like a simple and cheap repair. They may have used plastic/rubber to avoid spending more money on a flex line. That line really should have a flex joint in it. Having it hard-piped will eventually lead to stress fractures in the copper tubing. But whatever - it will work for a while. When it does break replace with a stainless braided flex-line. GD

Properly tuned a Weber will have negligable effect on MPG. How you drive it after the conversion might, but the carb itself will not cause more/less fuel to be used - that is based almost entirely on the engine mechanicals. GD

You may have pooched an o-ring installing that used injector - thats one of the major reasons I typically swap whole used rails from the junk yard - you get two good injectors and you don't have to touch any of the o-rings so very unlikely you will get a leak. GD

There's several threads on this in the retrofitting forum. Look there. GD

You can use black top or red top injectors as well - the red tops are the most reliable. GD

How is the rubber on the harmonic dampener? Mushy engine mounts? The flywheel would not be my first suspect.... does it have an aftermarket filter/intake? These have been known to cause issues with harmonics at certain rpm. GD

Best solution is reman lifters (Mizpah Precision - $4.50 each), new oil pump, cam case o-rings and relief valve springs. Sure fire repair. Anything less is likely very temporary/transitory. A proper repair involving those parts will run about $250 with new timing belts and tensioners and you will never have this return if you change the oil regularly. GD

It always comes on with the defrost - it dry's the air and makes the defroster more effective. Also keeps the compressor from sitting idle all winter. GD

So you are saying that Subaru is a bunch of Idiots? So you drive them why? They say to put it in everything as a CYA - it is not needed nor do I ever use it on the new, updated head gaskets. The leak on the EJ251/EJ253 is purely a result of poor coolant/oil gallery sealant used on the (old) head gaskets. It does not affect the combustion chamber fire ring. The stop-leak product DOES work - often long term but even in the short term it is a useful product as it can buy someone TIME. Time to gather the funds and make the arrangement so as not to be out a vehicle at the wrong time. Blanket statements calling people that use the Holts product an "Idiot" is foolish. It has it's place, it does a job. Use a $1.50 product (sanctioned by the dealer) to avoid a $1,000 repair bill and often the problem never returns - how does that make someone an idiot? GD

It's Holt's Stop Leak with a Subaru label on it. It is chunky and it IS designed to plug leaks. It actually works quite well on the Phase-II EJ25's - both from my own experience and talking to the local dealer - they have told me that MANY cases of external leaking head gaskets never have the problem again with proper application of the "conditioner". Incidentally - there's nothing left to "condition" when they start leaking - you have two block surfaces, a thin strip of metal (HG core) and all the sealant is washed away from either side - so there's nothing to be "conditioned" - that's a marketing term to keep people from freaking out. GD

That stuff will fix the external leaks on early phase-II engines. It will not seal a combustion leak on a phase-I. It is not designed for that nor will it work. If you have an overheating phase-I EJ25 (EJ25D) then you need to replace the head gaskets. GD

Just like any motor bearing replacement - a two-jaw puller and a bit of pipe to install the new bearing. Should do the brushes at the same time..... GD

We did not get those in the US. Last year for the DOHC 2.5 non-turbo was 99 here. Sorry I cant help more with your request. GD

EA81 and EA82 require different adaptor plates but both can accept a weber, yes. GD

For $37.50 it's not really worth trying to build one unless you have too much time on your hands. Trying to figure out what kind of ceramic based adhisive caulk they use to keep the nichrome wire loops seperated, the fidgety soldering of that stuff..... headache. Spend the $40 and be done with it. GD

Brat's are EA81 cars. They continued making them till '87 due to their popularity even though the EA82 and it's associated body change took over the wagon, sedan, and coupe chassis. GD

That is not true of all models and years - for one thing the EA81 and EA82 rack lines use a totally different style fitting - one being an o-ring seal and the other a flare fitting. I also encountered differences in a couple of EA82 PS line's and fittings that I was looking at using..... in the end the easiest solution was to just switch to JIC so I would have no incompatibilities. So EJ/EA are not always the same since EA/EA are not always the same..... GD